Announcement

**sharkey** · 10-07-2004, 01:17 AM

when you set the timing, did you unplug the wire for the ecm timing controll??? im not sure were it is on the rwd cars, but in the trucks its on the left side by the brake booster or under the dash. its usualy part of the wiring harness and could be inside the looming (note: dont unhook the plug on the distributor) if you dont unhook it, you will never get the timing set right, as the ecm is trying to control the timing as you turn the distributor.

only other thing i can think of is the injectors are clogged. you may wanna try getting them cleaned, or run a ton of injector cleaner through the thing.

**DazzlinDave** · 10-07-2004, 01:39 AM

Didnt find the wire, so what I did was set timing marks on 10 deg, and made sure that rotor was dead center on cap #1 terminal. Maybe out if timing chain is stretched. Engine has 128k miles. I'll run more cleaner too.
Thanks

**sharkey** · 10-07-2004, 02:09 AM

yea thats likely the problem. you will need to find the wire and unplug it to set the timing. you may think its real close, but it goes real stupid. when you set it at 10 degrees with it unplugged, and plug it back in, it can idle anywere from 8-15 degrees. so if the ecm wanted it on the high side, and you set it at 10, your ignition is to far retarded, and you will have no power.

find the wire and unplug it to set it, i garentee thats the problem.

**DazzlinDave** · 10-14-2004, 04:39 PM

Update

I got the timing checked at a garage, and it was out. I was sitting at 3 btdc,rather than 10.Still runs like crap when warm.

Also of note, before checking the timing, a mechanic figured the valves might be a little tight on the lash settings,so I pulled the plenium off,and readjusted the valves. WOW, a big diffrence.When cold and idling, you can put a cup of coffee on the top of the engine, and there is barely a ripple in it. When the motor gets to about 140 deg ( just guessing here) it drops one cyl and coffee is flying all over...lol
Also, when cold the engine seems to have great power..almost feels like a BBC ! After a couple of minutes, it starts missing and becomes VERY sluggish. I erased the codes, and now get a code 45 ( rich exhaust ) as the engine warms up.

**bszopi** · 10-14-2004, 04:54 PM

I'd check into the O2 sensor. The reason it is running fine when cold is because the engine is still in open-loop mode, thus its not really controlling the fuel and spark. Once the O2 sensor heats up and kicks in, it'll try to adjust to the conditions it is seeing. So either your O2 sensor is fault, or there is something that is actually causing a rich condition (leaky injector, etc).

**DazzlinDave** · 10-14-2004, 04:57 PM

o2 is new

the o2 sensor is 2 weeks old

What would happen if I unplugged the o2 sensor?

**DazzlinDave** · 10-22-2004, 09:50 PM

Well, what a crappy day !
Anyway, changed o2 sensor again, and still same problem. Last couple of days, a big hole developed in muffler, so took it in for replacement,and to get cat changed too. Muffler guy says to me the car is running ruff...no shit SHerlock javascript:emoticon('

')
dumbass , and that he wont change the plugged cat..just the muffler. On my way home, I decide to get a garage to do a diagnostic on her as Im out of things to guess at. 20 min later, they cut the test short and inform me the damn oil control rings are shot. I knew the engine was a bit weak, but damn......
At least they didnt charge me full price for the test javascript:emoticon('

')
Cool.
Now to find something else to drop in

BTW, thanks again for all the help guys javascript:emoticon('

')
Very Happy

**geoffinbc** · 10-22-2004, 10:09 PM

Oil control rings are shot? Really and how did they determine this? Even after 200,000 miles oil control rings are usually not a problem. Do you have excessive smoke and loss of oil? I would highly doubt this. If you have lots of blow by then go over the PCV system. As for the clogged cat. Get that taken care of because that is a very common cause of poor power. I say just remove it and install a pipe and see what the results are. If you need emissions testing then install a new cat before the time comes for the test.

**DazzlinDave** · 10-22-2004, 10:40 PM

engine condition

Engine has 129k on it. When I bought it, the last owner blew a head gasket on the interstate...I dont know how long he drove it before he noticed the white smoke. I bought it "non running"
As far as blowby, yah, there is a lot. Take the oil filler cap off while running, and it looks like the engine is on fire

The pcv is good, but I dont think it can keep up with the blowby. . There is also alot of oil in the plastic hose/plenum. Could be drained every 10 miles or so
There diagnosis for the oil rings is the fact of oil literaly running out of the sparkplug holes on # 2 and 4 cyl when the plugs are pulled out. This I noticed too, but didnt really want to admit it to myself, just yet anyway,as it is slowly getting worse.There was nothing showing for about 100 miles after I changed the head gaskets. I can only get about 5 miles on new plugs on 2 and 4. There is hardly any smoke out the exhaust...can barely see it unless you really got your foot in it.

**geoffinbc** · 10-23-2004, 01:03 PM

LOL ok well that is a different story. You did not say this engine has been through hell. Well if it has blown an gasket and been driven on a leaking gasket then toss the engine. It is just a matter of time until it starts knocking.

Look for a 1993 to 1995 3.4L Camaro/Firebird engine it will be a direct bolt in.

**DazzlinDave** · 10-23-2004, 09:06 PM

I didnt know this engine has been to Hell

~

Believe it or not, this car is practicly in show room condition. Everything the past owner has done to it has checked out,etc. He never looked at it once the head gasket went out...maybe I should have listened to my gut instinct from the start...who would give up on a cherry car just cause of a bad gasket ?
Oh well, the car is mine so I will be dealing with it

Bought it cheap enough to warrent a whole brand new drivetrain if needed...hummmmmm

Thanks again all

**geoffinbc** · 10-23-2004, 10:59 PM

Hummm LS1

**sharkey** · 10-24-2004, 12:21 AM

if you are looking to swap an engine into it, just throw a smallblock into it. its likely the easyest engine swap in a late model car. just get a smallblock engine thats carbed, get a 700r4 tranny to bolt to it, and it will pretty well drop right into the mounts. you way need a different crossmember (doubt that though). you can get rid of the ecm, all the computer wiring, ect, and just have it back to the basics.

another idea is an tpi 305/350. you would need to get the engine, tranny, and wiring harness, ecm, ect and it would be a bit more involved.

i wouldnt recomend an ls1 unless you have some serious cash. an ls1 is expensive used, and you would almost need to get the stand alone fuel and ignition controll thats out there for them, or go with the new carbed setup and the ignition controll box. if you were going this route, plan to spend upwards of $5000

**DazzlinDave** · 10-24-2004, 01:20 AM

have been thinking of a target master 350

but then again, a nice 383 would be sweet also

.Hell, I dont even know if GM still makes a target engine...its been years since ive had to play with a smoke wrench
I cant make up my mind....dont want to make a racer out of it, but if I'm going to go through the work of a transplant,best to do it right. Just need a good reliable daily driver that can walk on a few ricers every now and again

Something around 300 hp with a 4 automatic.Nothing fancy. Any ideas?
I'd like to keep the fi. Has to be smogged up too,so the ecm has to stay.I know that it might need to be changed out.

Announcement

New member with a poor running '89 camaro 2.8L

New member with a poor running '89 camaro 2.8L

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment