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Originally posted by robertisaar
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i googled and search high and low to figure out what is wrong with my fuel pump not shutting off. Stumbled across a few threads and posts about the oil pressure switch beside the oil filter being a 3 terminal switch. Looked at mines and found a 1 terminal switch, like WTF? Atleast i know i am not insane and those years came with two switches instead of one. You learn something new everyday.
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I'm willing to bet your short isn't on top of the tank considering pulling the relay doesn't do anything. I would pull the housing for the relay and fuse and flip it over. I mean, the fuse supplies power to the relay and the only way to kill the pump is to pull the fuse. This tells me that the relay is just there for looks right now, but since the fuse has power, everything going up to it should be good.Originally posted by packardbell View Post-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay Leno
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Tonight after work i will try to locate that two terminal oil pressure switch, unplug it and see if the fuel pump runs or stops. If the pump stops then we have found the problem being the second two terminal oil pressure switch. If the pump continues to run then i will flip the housing for the relay and fuse and see what is happening there.Originally posted by pocket-rocket View PostComment
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1 terminal STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS222 2 terminal STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS216
Also, you should have a main f/p relay and a secondary f/p relay (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # RY121). The 2nd one could be internally failed.
Did someone install an Inertia Switch? Check for one and see if its shorting out.Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.Comment
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Alright guys i located the other 2 pin oil pressure switch, not easy to get at and had to break off the plastic part to remove it. the plug was full of oil and yup this is the switch that is causing the fuel pump to stay on.Comment
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the connector cavity being filled with oil isn't surprising.... the 3-pin versions seem to fail the same way as well.Comment
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Despite it being mentioned I forgot about that switch mainly because GM went to the 3 pin one so mine doesn't have it, lol.Last edited by pocket-rocket; 07-10-2014, 02:32 PM.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoComment
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also noticed that the insulation from the wires was melted, so looks like new wire and connector for oil pressure and coolant temperature.Originally posted by pocket-rocket View PostComment
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When it rains, it pours.
Last week I went to change the fuel pump in my wife's AWD Mountaineer. That turned into a tank as well due to the fuel fill nipple busting off of the tank when I went to remove the hose. Then a fuel tank pressure sensor when the old one wouldn't come out of the old tank, then other things I had intended on fixing on it. Figured I would get it done on my week off of work for the 4th.... $1k later the truck does run really nice and it's quiet again.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoComment
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teflon taped the coolant sensor, i removed it to get better angle/leverage to remove the oil switch.
burnt wires
coolant temp wires melted
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Wow... that's a short waiting to happen... time for a new pig tail.sigpic
"When you don't do anything, you have plenty of time to post questions that don't mean anything tomorrow."
- BenComment
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repaired and used many heat shrink tubes around the repaired wires now. should be good to go.Originally posted by carbon View PostComment
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