Leaking oil press switch, low oil & noisy lifters

[TGP37]

Yeah, oil press switch is leaking badly. Only a slow drip at idle but trickles under load. So naturally the driveway wasn't puddling and I didn't notice any issues.

Few days ago the oil light comes on and I make note to check the oil when I got home.

2 blocks from my house the engine started making (i think lifter noise) a clatter going up hill with light throttle. Only happened for a second and was shut off in 20 seconds or so. At idle it didn't do that. I fear I lost oil pressure moments before shutting it down. Thankfully I was babying the car home out of respect for the neighborhood I live in. I refuse to have a lead foot near homes/kids.

Got home, checked the oil, noticed it was VERY LOW. Oil dripping off the starter, traced it to the ops easily. No questioning it's the press switch.



I think I avoided a catastrophe regarding the turbo. If I had boosted up with a loss of oil pressure, well, we know where that leads.....turbo destruction.





Now, what should I do? Do I need to check bearings or can I just slap on a new switch and refill oil? I do believe I caught it just in time after a long drive home. Low oil light wasn't on too long either so I must have had a bad leak out of the terminal.

No oil leaks else where, triple checked all around. Just the oil press switch.



Advise?

[1988GTU]

Check oil for bearing material. Oil doesn't check out good, pull caps. If checks out good then fix the leak, add oil and start it. If it still makes noise, plan on checking filter for bearing material and if found, check caps.

[TGP37]

Thanks, I figured checking the oil when I get to swap the switch.

What is caps? I would guess oil cap but that seems to obvious and silly. Lifter tops or connecting rod?

Filter is definitely changed out. I like to swap filters with every oil change. Not too expensive versus pumping unfiltered oil through the bypass.

Has new rings, crank and tri-metal rod bearings. Only old bearings are the cam bearings. i just don't want to find screwed up wrist pins, bearings, etc after all the work put in.

All over a faulty $18 switch.



Good note is the noise only occured briefly and up hill. Guessing the oil pick up drew air for a brief moment. Should be enough oil to cover the pick up on the level.

[1988GTU]

connecting rod caps yes.

Did you prefill the filter? Dont want anymore dry startups at this point if possible.

Running oil low for my older 2.8 caused a lot of damage, but I was on the freeway doing 70 mph ( 3 speed auto ) and the aux cooler line ruptured.

[TGP37]

So basically you had zero oil for a period of time on the highway? I don't think the leak was that bad...yet.

Thankfully it was still dripping oil, that tells me it was still pumping oil. Hopefully the damage is low for the brief moment of chatter.

btw, how fast will hydraulic lifters chatter from oil starvation? seconds? I would think so, not having immediate pressure should deflate them rapidly. But I have no real world experience to back that up.

I'm hoping there is zero damage to the bearings. Though I am expecting something. I just did NOT like the sound of that chatter. My guess was the lifters were bouncing off the cam lobe when deflated. Having nothing to push them back and follow the lobe.


I always prefill the filter. Messy but like you said, reduces dry start. Is there any merit in cranking with no ignition to pump up the oil before starting?


Thanks for the input. I'm going to drain the oil and see exactly what I am looking at. Just might cut the filter open if I see metal debris.

F'ing cheap oil switch!!!!

[1988GTU]

The oil pressure went to 0 and then before I could swing into the shoulder it sounded like a diesel engine. Fixed the ruptured line, added oil, and fired it up to hear the dieseling sound still. It was not as loud at first, however it didnt make it the rest of the 20 miles home from that point without locking up and sounding like an obvious rod knocker.

As soon as the pressure drops to zero, I'd say within a few long seconds if you're cruising above 2500 rpm's.

[TGP37]

Then I should be okay. It was brief going up hill and stopped at the level. Wasn't complete pressure loss as far as I can tell. No change in sound except for the clanking lifters which was about a second, two at most tops. After that I babied it home about a few city blocks worth. no more then 20 mph when it occured and definitely didn't get anywhere near boost. She idled fine (I listened to the idle intently for a moment then shut it down in the driveway).

The oil was still golden color and was fairly fresh. Only about 200 miles on the oil. Turbo compressor has no play in it, which is relieving.


What a lesson this has been so far. Thank goodness I installed AN adapters on the braided steel oil lines both in/out versus clamping the lines.

Now I want to get an oil primer for cold start ups.


If I have to replace the bearings, I just might as well go forged bottom end and get it over with. Though, 1 mod leads to another. Can't do the bottom w/o installing a turbo cam. Which leads to TCE double chains, stronger valve springs.........and then my savings are depleted again.

BUT, that is a long project, again. Rather just slap on a new oil switch, filter, fill er up and drive on.



I will let you know what I find. And again, thanks for the help/info.

[TGP37]

I bet this would work.......

Before installing the new oil press switch, attach a fitting with a hose to simple DAP pump full of oil. Disconnect the turbo oil feed and hang it higher then the engine itself. Push oil through out the entire system via the press switch until it weeps from the turbo oil feed.

This should fill all the cavities with fresh oil, if the pump is strong enough.

Could also be an interesting way to flush the passages during oil change.

[pocket-rocket]

FWIW I pull the ECM fuse and crank until I get pressure, to answer you question a few posts back. I figure a few hundred rpm with no load is much better than no oil starting and idle.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[TGP37]

FWIW I pull the ECM fuse and crank until I get pressure, to answer you question a few posts back. I figure a few hundred rpm with no load is much better than no oil starting and idle.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Definitely!


AND..........the oil has zero signs of metal. Still golden colored. I think I dodged a catastrophe. Part luck, part responsible....either way, THANK GOD!!!!

Oil level was really low....REALLY low. By my estimates, it appears to be just enough to make it to the oil pump pick up screen. I wonder if having a crank scraper saved my engine by returning more oil to the pick up versus suspension around the crank.

Still want to cut the filter open anyways just to see. But all seems good.

[TGP37]

Swapped the switch, filter and loaded her up with 15w40 Rotella oil.

The lifters never sounded so quiet as they do now. I did crank w/o the fuel pump and made sure there was no fuel line pressure. Cranked for 5 seconds....don't want to burn up the starter. It had hot oil showers recently, lol.

Runs great, no noises, smooth sailing.



Thought I'd report the results.

Thanks fellas

[1988GTU]

Awesome!