I'll take the blame in cracking the upper intake, when I first installed the large port intake I torqued down each bolt 1 at a time to spec resulting in cracks around the tabs instead of gradually torquing each bolt in steps. I have noticed it does seem easier to crack a large port upper intake do to the having less bolts to spread the clamping force as compared to the small port upper intake with 2 bolts per runner.
I still have my old set of heads and upper/lower intakes but those are are planed to be bolted onto my buddies 88 Buick Regal that he turbo charged.
How did your post 2000 EGR not work right?
Otherwise another update: Last week I let my girlfriend barrow my car to take out to Chicago, getting it back I got a "service engine soon" light. After a couple days I had time to check what the codes were and I got PO102, PO122, PO300, and PO442(I get on/off since the top swap). What really confused me was 3 days ago all the codes went away.
I tested the wire harness and found no problems, grounds are good, I'm getting 5v ref. to the TPS/MAF and the MAF is getting 12v to for the heating element. So I got this great idea to unplug the MAF sensor and WOW!!!!!!! I'm in love all over again with my car, I got all my low end power back, idles more smoothly, lost no high end power, the car feels amazing Some times with the MAF unplugged the engine searches for idle (200 rpm bounce) but other its a night and day difference.
Does this mean my MAF sensor is bad?
I still have my old set of heads and upper/lower intakes but those are are planed to be bolted onto my buddies 88 Buick Regal that he turbo charged.
How did your post 2000 EGR not work right?
Otherwise another update: Last week I let my girlfriend barrow my car to take out to Chicago, getting it back I got a "service engine soon" light. After a couple days I had time to check what the codes were and I got PO102, PO122, PO300, and PO442(I get on/off since the top swap). What really confused me was 3 days ago all the codes went away.
I tested the wire harness and found no problems, grounds are good, I'm getting 5v ref. to the TPS/MAF and the MAF is getting 12v to for the heating element. So I got this great idea to unplug the MAF sensor and WOW!!!!!!! I'm in love all over again with my car, I got all my low end power back, idles more smoothly, lost no high end power, the car feels amazing Some times with the MAF unplugged the engine searches for idle (200 rpm bounce) but other its a night and day difference.
Does this mean my MAF sensor is bad?
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