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  • #46
    Yes when you turn on the the A/C, otherwise only when the engine gets past the turn on temp threshold.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
    -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
    91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
    92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
    94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
    Originally posted by Jay Leno
    Tires are cheap clutches...

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    • #47
      Yeah, I put the A/C on MAX, fan setting on 5, and those fans do not turn, not even a little. I hear the compresser turn on once I press the A/C button, but the radiator fans do not turn on.
      The radiator itself looks pretty clogged to me, lots of bugs and rocks and whatnot. Anyway to clean the fins out?

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      • #48
        Cleaning the radiator fins can be tricky but possible. The aluminum fins are very delicate and bends at the slightest push. Use a small pick to dislodge the rocks and compressed air can help remove smaller particles. Beyond that it shouldn't cause overheating as long as the radiator isn't completely covered in debris.

        The auto fluid cooler in the radiator, the in/out ports are directly below the radiator fill neck (not the overflow tank line). If you have something plumbed into the radiator below the filler neck, it is probably ATF cooler lines. I guess checking the ATF fluid for signs of emulsification is the only way to tell other then unplugging the lines in/out and bypassing the radiator ports to see if coolant leaks out. But that can be a pita given the location.

        The results you speak of, it sounds promising of not having a head gasket leak.

        IMHO, back flushing the coolant several times is a great idea. It's not hard and most kits have a T fitting with cap that goes between the hot coolant out to heater core lines. Can leave it installed and just need to remove the cap and hook up a garden hose. Some come with a hose that inserts into the rad filler cap to dump the flushed water/coolant out and over the side. The water flows while the engine is running w/ heater on full blast. Should remove the t-stat during the back flush as well.

        After the first back flush, add coolant system cleaner, follow instructions, flush again.

        Now, after the several flushes, you can choose which antifreeze you want....dexcool or green. But do not mix them....ever.

        If the discoloration is just contaminents breaking free, it is not something to worry about too much. Though having a clean coolant system is.....we know this....is good for it.

        If you ever have to add water, use distilled water only. That is pure water, no chemicals, no chlorine, no flouride, no minerals.


        As for the fuel pump, have a helper turn the key to on but don't start the engine. While you have your head by the rear tire near the fuel tank, you will hear the pump prime the fuel system. You will hear the pressure rise against the pump if it wasn't primed over night. After that it should keep a consistent hum for the few seconds it primes. You will know if it sounds bad, a good pump will sound steady in pitch. If it sounds gritty or otherwise unhealthy, disconnect the fuel filter and route it into a bucket to catch the fuel. Find the fuel pump relay and jump the relay to keep the fuel pump on indefinately. Do this for 1 minute exactly and measure how much fuel was pumped out in 1 minute.

        But that is not necessary unless the pump sounds questionable. In this case it is probably fine, just something to rule out along the way.


        At this point, if nothing else is wrong and she runs strong I'd say all is well, generally.
        1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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