allo, my first post here and not a happy one. today i rebuilt the carburator on my 2.8 powered 1984 GMC jimmy S15 with a 700R4. the truck has over 135k miles on it, the engine was replaced in 2006 with a GM crate long block, carb was last rebuilt in 1997 and transmission rebuilt in 2008. the previous owner documented everything he had done to the truck and took excelent care of it. well today after the carb rebuild, everything went ok, took a little more cranking just to fill the float bowl on the varajet E2SE carb. started to do a little tuning and checking everything over and checking for leaks with carb cleaner and suddenly it went from idling around 750 rpm to well over 4000 rpm when the choke closed by its self and the vacuum break dashpot retracted and the idle solenoid extended all the way. i ran over, shut it off and looked it over. everything seemed fine, so i restarted and after a few seconds of smooth idle it shot back up. i dismounted the carb and checked it over and found the 4 screws on the bottom had come loose which caused an air leak ( i'm an r/c tech and work on nitro engines, so i can spot an air leak) retorqued the screws and opend the float bowl up and looked it over, seemed ok, and yes i readjusted the float but even the instructions in the kit and my manual didn't say measure from the low end of the float or the high end. well i got it back to gether and remounted and cranked on the engine... nothing, could smell gas like i was bathing in it. checked spark and had spark. cranked and saw alot of gas rise up from the bowl vent screen and was spraying out of the bowl vent line on the canister. i opend it up again and couldn't see anything wrong. i need a proper service manual for this carb. i have one just for the 2SE but need one for the E2SE. if any one on here knows what is causing these issues and can offer up advice on how to fix it, please do. i'm already going to be missing for for the 3rd day in a row tomorrow. starting to regret opening the carb up in the first place.. but it needed a rebuild. and also before you ask i have rebuilt over a dozen carbs ranging from the tiny ones on a .08 nitro engine all the way up to a couple edelbrock Q-jet 4 barrels for my old 1985 blazer full size.
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first post huge carb problem.
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I'll see what identifix can pull up and mitchell for info for you. I had an '85 back in 2000 and couldn't get a a new carb to save my life, I strapped a modified edelbrock 4 barrel intake on mine and ran an afb carb with a cam. I tried rebuilding mine too and it never came out right, POS carbs they are!sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
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thank you. i did manage to get the truck running and drivable yesterday, but still not 100%. amazing how much trouble installing the clip for the metering rod to the float can cause when installed backwards. also didn't help that the plunger post for the TPS broke and had to "liberate" one from the junkyard. but it drives, runs a little better. just need more info on external adjustments just for the E2SE carb.
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E2SE carbs are finicky as hell. I'm not sure if this helps but on my holley 390cfm, adjusting the floats is as simple as removing the sight screw, firing up the truck, and adjusting the top screw until fuel just barely trickles out. Done.Tuning a car is full of compromises. You must decide if you are willing to give up either reliability, performance, or a whole load of cash. Also remember that repairs will seem to come up much more often as you strive for even more performance
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