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  • Motor mount replacement

    Hey,

    My main hydraulic motor mount on my 97 lumina (3100) has went kapooee and is now like a squished Big Mac sandwich.

    I am going to replace it with a solid one. My memory is poor, but I thought I saw an article on this site about how to replace a motor mount on a 3100-type engine.

    I looked in the articles archive, and I can't seem to find it. Any help appreciated. Oh, maybe I'll look in the photos area too.

  • #2
    I think I found something on the internets below. I guess the same procedure should work on the lumina too.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by talon2swords View Post
      I guess the same procedure should work on the lumina too.
      yup!

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      • #4
        I got the new mount in. The old one was completely shot and turned to goo. I noticed the two vertical bolts holding the top bracket to the aluminum oil pan were not very tight. I tried to put them in tonight, but they would not tighten. I assume that the worn motor mount allowed the engine to put undo stress on the bolts, and the aluminum threads were widened. The horizontal bolt appeared to tighten, so the engine appears to have at least one good fasten point holding it down.

        I only had blue locktite, so I put some on the two vertical bolts and snugged them as best I could.

        I don't know if I should go back and put in two slightly larger bolts, or use a helicoil, or do nothing at all. Any advice appreciated.

        Oh yeah, car is much smoother, almost new again.
        Last edited by talon2swords; 02-09-2012, 10:55 PM.

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        • #5
          Also read somewhere if you swap the Hydra to solid you should also do the tranny mount same time? Was that true? I'm going to be doing someting like this when the snow clears up.
          2013 Black Granite Metallic Chevy Cruze ECO 6MT (DD)

          2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car)

          1998 Sandrift Metallic Buick Century Limited (Traded in)

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Merc6 View Post
            Also read somewhere if you swap the Hydra to solid you should also do the tranny mount same time? Was that true? I'm going to be doing someting like this when the snow clears up.
            I don't know.

            I suppose if you have the time, it would be a good idea. I checked the T-mount and it appeared to be in good shape, so I'm leaving it alone for now. I think it may originally be solid rubber, so it seems to last a lot longer.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Merc6 View Post
              Also read somewhere if you swap the Hydra to solid you should also do the tranny mount same time? Was that true? I'm going to be doing someting like this when the snow clears up.

              Couldn't hurt!

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              • #8
                The motor won't flex, the trans will flex...something is going to give.
                1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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                • #9
                  Not trying to be smarty pants, but has anyone experienced tranny/engine/drive train failure from mixing hydra. and solid rubber mounts?

                  Oh yeah, rock auto sells hydra. transmission mounts, so must be the original factory equip. is all hydra. I did not know the smaller t-mount was also hydra. However, I did order a solid one originally by mistake, so I could still install it I suppose to match the main engine mount. I just don't want to do the extra work. Heh.

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                  • #10
                    I've heard of people using solid trans mounts and flexable motor mounts breaking the transmission. But they are not 60v6 engines.

                    I would not want half the block/trans able to flex more/less then the other pivot point. It just doesn't seem healthy concerning the solution is a simple mount swap. But I can not say I have ever encountered such a thing personally. Probably okay for a daily driver but not good for a performance vehicle.



                    edit: I'll put it this way. With equal mounts the engine rocks along the Y-Axis (forward/back). With different mounts you now have motion along the X-Axis (twisting) as well as the Y-Axis. When you hit the gas/brake, the solid mount will want to follow the poly mount. Between both points, the weakest point will give.

                    But again, I could be wrong as I haven't encountered this before. Just viewing this from a physics perspective.
                    Last edited by TGP37; 03-08-2012, 09:37 PM.
                    1996 Grand Prix | 3100v6 L82 | T04E-50 Turbo | Getrag 282 w/ EP LSD | SPEC-3 Clutch

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