O-Ring on 3400?!

[Rootie524]

haven't really looked at it. i was too pissed. ill check later today. i did a quick once over and the top of the oil pump drive seems dry

[pocket-rocket]

haven't really looked at it. i was too pissed. ill check later today. i did a quick once over and the top of the oil pump drive seems dry

And I was hoping this is where it was.

[Rootie524]

me too :/

[60dgrzbelow0]

Mr. Rootie... Without meaning to flog a dead horse...I have a few other suggestions to consider the next time you steel yourself up to attack the problem. When you pull the next used (new) seal ...try to run your fingers around the OD of the rear crankshaft race to discover any burrs or nicks that might make a Pig's Breakfast out of a brand new seal (and the floor of your garage) when it goes bad again if undiscovered.

Also... have a closer look at the rear camshaft seal...in the early model 60* engines they sport a cork seal and a steel plate which can only be replaced by perfectly re-aligning the three eccentric bolt holes as a match to the holes in the block . They also demand a new cork gasket that sports three tiny metal anti-crush rings that prevent or discourage over tightening the plate and squashing the springy cork so much that its defeats its ability to seal. If yours has followed in the footsteps of all the others that get dried up like pop-corn fart and allow oil to leak out...sometimes in quantity if the seal is lost in the extreme. Keep a telescoping magnet handy if you decide to replace that gasket, because unless you cleverly Scotch-Tape those rings in place long enough to get the three small hold down bolts threaded and then slip the tape segments out before torquing down the plate, they'll fall out just as you stick in the first bolt and you'll never find them without that magnet.