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I doubt the computer is messed or the TPS is bad. Its probably either major carbon buildup on the valves, a bad O2 sensor giving the computer a bad reading, clogged injectors, faulty wires/plugs or something along those lines. The computer isn't usually an issue though it does come up. Best way to check the sensor readings is to scan the computer while the engine is running.
What year is your car?
BTW, TPS spec is .5 - 5 but dont be surprised if its .36 or .71 and 4.79 or along those lines. The computer scales the TPS so precise voltage isn't important.
Is there anything I can do for the carbon buildup short of taking the heads off? LOL I heard SeaFoam was good stuff, and have heard nothing but good things about it so far.
The plugs and wires are brand new, so I hope they aren't faulty, but I know it's possible. I'll be rechecking the gap on them in the next couple of days, too. The guy said he also replaced one of the coil packs, thinking it was the problem and it wasn't. How would I know if the O2 sensor is giving a bad reading? I know I can get a code scanner, but I also heard that Chevrolets have a way you can pull codes with a paper clip. Is that true? Or is there another way I can do it without buying the scanner just yet?
If you've got a check engine light, then there will be a code set that you can retrieve with a paperclip. Autozone also gives away "code keys" that fit in the appropriate pins.
What you do is short the two pins, and the check engine light will start to blink out codes. It will flash as follows:
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- -
-
- -
-
- -
(this is code 12, which is normal, and will be displayed even when there are no other codes)
Then whatever codes have been set will also flash three times, for example a code 23 would be as follows:
- -
- - -
- -
- - -
- -
- - -
After any stored codes have been displayed, it will flash 12 again.
Cool! Would you be able to tell me where it is I put the paperclip? Never done it before, just heard of it. Also, I apologize for all the questions, I just wanna get this thing on the road quick. I always get excited when I get a new car, although my wife doesn't seem to get excited. That's probably because in the 4 years we've been married, I've bought or received over 25 cars. LOL
On my car it is a square thingy below the steering column off to the right. You plug the two ends of the clip into the top 2, far right places I believe. Just try all the places on the right, when it's right, you will hear it whine.
Thanks Aaron, I'll be checking that out tomorrow. I have one more quick question. When I turn the wheels (normally only in reverse, but even in reverse gear while not moving) to the left, I keep hearing a clunking. That IS the CV joint, right? If so, how hard are they to change on these cars?
Aaron, Wbods have the plug oriented differently than on J bods. In mine it's the left row, top two pins in that row. Also, it's in a different place. It's just to the left of the steering column, next to the fuse panel.
And wtf is this about "you will hear it whine"?
By the way, don't start the car with the pins shorted... just turn the switch to "run".
Well, I tried moving the wheel around and it had no play at all, at least not while it's on the ground. Do I have to have it off the ground to see? I was thinking maybe my lower ball joint is bad on the driver's side, too. The popping (or clunking) kinda reminds me of that sound.
Well, I haven't gotten a chance to do the codes yet (been busy with other stuff around the house..not to mention work), but I did get the CV shaft replaced, and now I trust it to drive wherever. It just has some hesitation. I'm starting to think it is the cat, mostly because it ran great yesterday with no hesitation, then it started hesitating again and sputtering. I guess I'll get in there with a hammer and try to clear it up some more.
Ok, I went out to do that and it didn't work. I'm going to check the gaps on the plugs and see if that's it. After that, I'm running codes. Could anyone tell me what the plug gap is for these, please?
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