2005 Chevy Equinox 3400 coolant in enine oil

[andytk5]

was going to get a snap on torque wrench ATECH3FR250A but the dang thing is $515, but need a good one for this engine and my hemi as well, plus if anybody else's car going down in the fam.. have some $26 one's at O'Reilley's and maybe a can test them at home with a rig I made but Mac, Matco, Snap on CDI, are all over 350-500+. Any thoughts? I know craftsman is junk, had two go out, thankfully I returned them before the 90 warr.

[andytk5]

guys, I am wondering at this point wether I should just pull the motor and check/replace the bottom end crank/rod bearings/main seal etc.. if I am this far already??? my reasoning is they need this 160K mile car to last another 2yrs or so and be reliable. If this car ran for 500 miles (from first over heat point to when he got towed) with contaminated oil then i really worry about the main bearings. I mean I can only imagine going 50-100 miles with no oil on the crank bearing or rod bearings... Let me know what you guys think, the master rebuild kit with new pistons/rings/bearings gaskets is like $500 so def worth it compared to rolling the dice or a new engine. Found some for $1500 (used motor) but whats the point? Another dice roll there, vs me knowing the quality of work and what was done..

Can you guys let me know if there is anything different on this engine relative to basic small-block chevy V-8/turbo250/400/700r4 removal/re-installs other than being transverse mounted etc..

Thanks so much for your help guys, if anybody needs any advice on rebuilding a SeaDoo 787 motor let me know! LOL

[bszopi]

No differences in pulling it. I agree with your thoughts on this, given the amount of time the engine ran.

[Arisaka]

If you still have the oil removed from the engine.

Check the oil for bearing material surpensed in the oil or that has settled to the bottom of the container.

I tore down a 1997 3100 with bad piston rod bearings.I could see the bearing material floating in the oil.

[andytk5]

It seems like that would be the best thing so the engine is really fresh, TB and the intake runner are totally gummed up, so much that I need some solvent for them to soak in over night. (be nice to have a parts washer here!) the TB was loose on the motor and it had a ton of dirt sitting on the lower manifold, like it had be rally racing, but its always a road car...

I haven't drained the oil yet. I have a nice large pan that I can let the oil drain into and be able to see it really well,

thanks guys!

[andytk5]

Just thinking for a min, I know the quotes I got from the dealers on just the head/intake gaskets were $2k-3K so I can only imagine a dealer rebuild on the engine would have to be like $5k? right? Like I said I saw used ones for 1200-2000 but that is pointless to me it seems. This will be about 6-800 when done I am just curious as to the savings here based on total rebuild by the dealer.

Going to pick up a valvespring compressor to clean arond the valves since there is a ton of buildup around the seats and a gritty sound when I let the valve close on the seat so not a good seal obviously, nice that Sears has one for $20! 00947627000 | Model: 47627

[andytk5]

well looks like some scored main bearing on the second and third main cap bearing. The crank has a couple small scratches on the journal that the worst bearing was on. The milky oil was all over everything really takes some spraying and wiping to get it off. The valves were full of junk and the carbon layer was pretty intense on the combustion chambers, the head intake and exhaust ports, and the intake runners were insanely built up.

Prob going to do a hone job. Not really sure about the scratches on the crank journal. I could have it machined and then have them give me the thicker bearings for those two spots but Im not sure it needs it.

[bszopi]

Nothing against your family member, but it doesn't sound like regular maintenance was done on the engine...

[andytk5]

No offense at all, story is this car was his company car so he ran the heck out of it and then it came time to turn it in and he bought it... Never understiood that myself, not a good choice in my opinion..

Rock auto is out of that kit so I need to find some one else to supply the parts looking at precision engines and flatlanderacing but the guy adn the girl were fairly rude on the phone so I wont be ordering from them. Looking to see if there is any OEM GM rebuild kits. I think we should just light the car on fire at this point though...

[bszopi]

Do the local parts stores not carry it? Obviously its cheaper from Rock Auto or the like, but I'd think that a regular parts store should have it, or be able to get it in a day or 2.

[andytk5]

NAPA didnt, and some of the others weren't able to get the pistons so I am looking to reuse the ones I have and replace the rings and rods bearings, crank bearings etc...

Only thing I worry about is the scratch on one of the crank mains I catches my nail but isnt a huge gouge. Thinking once I check the bores witha dial guage and the wear on the pistons, as long as everything is good then I can order a set of rings and hopefully not have to have the crank grounds and thicker bearings used but maybe it is needed. Once I have the specs I can see.

Thanks guys

[andytk5]

Here are some pics of the crank. This is really what I am worried about as I have no idea what those marks on the sides of the counterbalances are and the scoring is pretty bad. I know I can have the journals machined but if the marks on the counterbalances made the crank out of balance then I think it's over.

[bszopi]

That last picture doesn't look good at all... I'll let others chime in on their thoughts.

[andytk5]

Yeah I can't see marks like that on the rods, there are some similar marks on the block as with some of the other counterweights so I am trying to figure if this is part of their machining process or if this is real contact, another guy said if this had been from the parts hitting the motor would have stopped, but the thing was real rough running so I have no idea guys, guess I need to try to find a crank shop in town and have them look at it?

[onefastV6]

You are probably going to be better off finding a used engine and dropping it in.
Check http://www.car-part.com and see what you can find with low miles.