i'm back! same issues new questions

[ishada]

My 95 lumina with 3100 sfi is still dying when I stop at lights and has an iffy idle. I have exhaust in the engine bay but that could be from the y pipe exhaust leak. I have replaced injector o-rings as it smelled like it was flooding, did the cts, and retorqed my intake, new egr gasket. checked for vac leaks and I really cant find any. I had a couple of wierd isolated back fires that would blow my brake booster line off at the booster. after the gaskets and what not I hose clamped the booster seems to run much better as I think the booster hose was an air leak.
now when I put it in reverse it trys to die 2/3 of the time. I am curious is it hard to remove all the emissions equipment? I am in northern nevada and do not really need it?
Could the IAC be bad? I dont even know where to look now that I have handled the basics.

[60dgrzbelow0]

If you use the expression "FPR Bladder" in the SEARCH feature... older, but still helpful articles on this problem will pop up... like this one...

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/46756-90-lumina-3.1-fuel-pressure-regulator-swap?highlight=fpr+bladder

[Azrael]

Is this backfire coming out through the intake or the exhaust?

[ishada]

I forgot to mention already replaced FPR in my list of things. I would assume through the intake if pressure is building up on brake booster hose. I think the coil pack issue in that post may makes some sense as even with the new fpr and injector o-rings it seems to be running rich.

[60dgrzbelow0]

FWIW...

It is a Crap Shoot as to whether or not the car is either OBD I or OBD II... but this link helps in figuring that part out:

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1995-chevy-lumina-obd-1-obd-2--vt435701.html

The reason for this suggestion being that if you can get the car to run well enough to drive it to an Autozone...they will be happy to read whatever codes are nested in your ECM/PCM for free and see if there is anything to look at that is more definitive because they want your business ...rather than trying to "ShotGun" replace all the suspect components until you get lucky enough to find the errant component(s). This might save you some time and money, too.

[SappySE107]

95 is obd1.5.

A scan would help, both codes and fuel trims and the like. You can see if a sensor is giving false readings. If your intake is pressurizing, I would say your intake valves aren't seating very well.

[ishada]

alirght well nearest autoparts establishment with scanner is 70 miles away, I live in a small town in northern nevada. yeah I know GO ME! I might try some seafoam because when we did the injector rings I pulled the egr for s&g and it was carboned so we cleaned it up I wouldnt be super surprised if its the same story on my valves!

[ishada]

it runs well enough to drive just not perfect. I seafoamed it yesterday drove to work today and am on lunch no hiccups. But no I noticed when idleing that if I turn on ac car sputters and dies. I think maybe bad alt or the bad idler is starting to drag on the motor itself any other Ideas? Maybe we should call this "ishada's big thread of Bull&%^$"

[Azrael]

If you suspect something on the accessory belt is funky then just take the belt off. The motor will start and run fine just don't run it like that for long. No running waterpump will make it overheat fast.