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With warm weather finally here I noticed my engine is running hotter than usual. Not overheating but it's clear the cooling system is having issues keeping up. Driving on the highways is fine but as soon as I enter stop/go traffic the temp climbs up to 220F. The fan kicks in but it struggles to bring the temp down even when it's only 75F ambient. This doesn't bode well with the summer weather coming soon. The upper radiator hose does get hot and no part of the radiator I can reach seems to be colder than the rest save for the very bottom.
While driving around with scannerpro I see that the max spark advance in the histograms are a little scary. It's as high as 39* in the 2000 RPM, 40&50 kpa cells. The minimum advance in the same cells were 26-28*. This seems like a lot to me although I'm not seeing any more than 1 knock counts per driving cycle and I don't feel/hear the engine pinging or detonating. The BLM's on 'most recent samples' are a little low with most at less than 120. Yet at WOT where the BLM's are at 128, the engine runs stupid rich at 10.5:1-11:1.
The engine is pretty much as it came from the factory with 130,000 miles. While it feels on the tired side it doesn't burn oil or coolant although there is some external coolant seepage along the lim gasket. Coolant system still pressurizes. Compression is between 170-180 psi. The low BLM's with the over-rich WOT I think is just from still running the original timing chain. I haven't seen listed symptoms for TC stretch that include overheating though.
Recent maintenance: Coolant flush in feb. at a dealership. No air coming through bleeder. Knock sensor is new. Injectors are clean and fuel pressure is good. Hosed outside of rad to clear any dirt. Straightend any bent rad/condenser fins I could find. Entire ignition system is less than a year old. Switched from the LC-1 wideband back to a narrowband. Waterpump ~1 year old.
Any ideas on what else I can look into? I'm also tempted to drain the radiator to see if there's any sludge or sediment that comes out but I can't figure out how to open the drain valve.
While driving around with scannerpro I see that the max spark advance in the histograms are a little scary. It's as high as 39* in the 2000 RPM, 40&50 kpa cells. The minimum advance in the same cells were 26-28*. This seems like a lot to me although I'm not seeing any more than 1 knock counts per driving cycle and I don't feel/hear the engine pinging or detonating. The BLM's on 'most recent samples' are a little low with most at less than 120. Yet at WOT where the BLM's are at 128, the engine runs stupid rich at 10.5:1-11:1.
The engine is pretty much as it came from the factory with 130,000 miles. While it feels on the tired side it doesn't burn oil or coolant although there is some external coolant seepage along the lim gasket. Coolant system still pressurizes. Compression is between 170-180 psi. The low BLM's with the over-rich WOT I think is just from still running the original timing chain. I haven't seen listed symptoms for TC stretch that include overheating though.
Recent maintenance: Coolant flush in feb. at a dealership. No air coming through bleeder. Knock sensor is new. Injectors are clean and fuel pressure is good. Hosed outside of rad to clear any dirt. Straightend any bent rad/condenser fins I could find. Entire ignition system is less than a year old. Switched from the LC-1 wideband back to a narrowband. Waterpump ~1 year old.
Any ideas on what else I can look into? I'm also tempted to drain the radiator to see if there's any sludge or sediment that comes out but I can't figure out how to open the drain valve.
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