Pushrod Removal Tool?

[Jogasz28]

Has anyone used this tool successfully?

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_2522_125/lisle_lis48500_push_rod_remover.html

IT apparently allows you to pivot up each rocker to remove each push rod.
Seems cheap enough if it works without damaging anything.
It seems it would also prevent having to set the valve lash. It would all be original settings.

[prophiseer]

I bought oen off the Matco truck a few years back - best $15 I've ever spent.

For those of us who work as mechanics, this tool can shave about 45min off doing a LIM gasket replacement. The tool slides over the rocker arm, and gives you enough leverage to rotate the rocker, thus actuating the valve, which gives you enough clearance to remove the pushrod from under the rocker. Seeing as how you do not have to loosen nor remove the rockers, there's no need to re-torque them after re-installing the pushrods. As well, if you do not rotate the camshaft, it's near impossible to re-install the wrong pushrod in the wrong spot - if you were trying to install a long pushrod where a short one should be, it won't fit under the rocker . . . if you try to install a short one where a long should be, the rocker won't make proper contact with the pushrod (too much play/clearance).

Even just working on these motors as a hobby, it's a great tool to have, and not expensive in the least.

[Jogasz28]

I bought oen off the Matco truck a few years back - best $15 I've ever spent.

For those of us who work as mechanics, this tool can shave about 45min off doing a LIM gasket replacement. The tool slides over the rocker arm, and gives you enough leverage to rotate the rocker, thus actuating the valve, which gives you enough clearance to remove the pushrod from under the rocker. Seeing as how you do not have to loosen nor remove the rockers, there's no need to re-torque them after re-installing the pushrods. As well, if you do not rotate the camshaft, it's near impossible to re-install the wrong pushrod in the wrong spot - if you were trying to install a long pushrod where a short one should be, it won't fit under the rocker . . . if you try to install a short one where a long should be, the rocker won't make proper contact with the pushrod (too much play/clearance).

Even just working on these motors as a hobby, it's a great tool to have, and not expensive in the least.

I appreciate the feedback.
Yesterday I tried to find TDC of #1 cylinder. I removed all the sparkplugs, squirting some oil into #1, and installed my compression gage in #1. After I hand-cranked the engine, I did get a slight rise, so I know I'm close, but not exact. I did look at the Balancer(?) and could not find a TDC mark. Do they not mark these anymore or did I just miss it?
Lastly, if I used the rocker tool I OP'd about, could I remove every rocker, whether the lifter is on the Base or top of the Lobe? If so, I just have to make sure the crank/cam doesn't move and then remove all the rockers to pull the heads to replace the head gaskets. Just making sure all rockers/lifters go back in exactly how they were originally.
Come to think of it, would it even matter if the crank/camshaft moved? The rocker tool will allow everything to go back into it's original position.

[prophiseer]

What kind of compression reading did you have off of #1? Are you having some kind of issue with the motor, or were you just planning a teardown/rebuild to get everything back into top shape?

Most of the newer GM motors don't exactly have any timing marks. The "timing" marks they have now is simply a notch in the balancer, and some form of notch or pointer on the front cover. There's no longer degree markings or any of that nonsense . . . the current marks are simply to let you know when the motor is at #1TDC or #4TDC (on the v8's it's #1/#6). I can't remember where exactly the marks on the 60* front cover are positioned, and I don't have a motor on hand to look at either, but I can probably get an image once I'm back to work tomorrow.

As to the tool, it doesn't remove the rocker - only allows you to rotate the rocker by hand so you can slide the pushrod out from under it. It doesn't quite matter where the lifters are along their respective lobe, as being able to use the tool to open the valve via the rocker will give you enough clearance to remove the pushrod. The only issue that might arise, though, if you rotate the crank/cam without the pushrods in place would be that you'd have to be careful about where the pushrods are supposed to be installed to . . . I haven't attempted such a maneuver, so I'm not sure if it would be possible to accidentally install the wrong pushrod once everything has moved. In theory, it shouldn't matter . . . but theory and practice are two opposing schools of faith. Just be careful and double check things.

IIRC, though, you will still have to remove the rockers to remove the head bolts . . . the whole inner 4 head bolts are blocked by the rockers.

[Rhedalert]

I bought that exact tool and it broke on me after removing a 3rd pushrod. I need to see if it's a warranty item.

[Daguse5853Z]

I bought mine from MAC tools. Works great!

[Jogasz28]

I was getting gas this week at a local BP and saw a Matco Truck visiting a shop next door.
I bought the short-handled pushrod removal tool (they make a longer handled version, same price) for 22$ plus tax. It also has a 3/8" drive female hole in the handle to increase leverage if needed.
We'll see how it works.