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  • #16
    OK i'll go try that....You have been a lifesaver...I just wanna get them right so i don't have to tear it all apart when i'm done...Damn 5th gen camaro's are NOT to easy to work on....But a 1/2 turn worked for you right????

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    • #17
      Half turn is working just fine for me right now.

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      • #18
        I think if you do a search on the forums, you will find that 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn is the correct amount, and that yes, the GM manual is indeed wrong.

        Oh yeah, and welcome to the site!
        -Brad-
        89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
        sigpic
        Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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        • #19
          I'm glad i found this site....I bought this camaro for my mother...She HAD to have a convertable...So i bought this one for 250.00 and thought it had a typical 60 degree v6 problem with the bottom intake gasket...I was wrong...It had a broken head bolt...I do this same engine all the time in front wheel drive cars and have NEVER encountered adjustable valves...So this is a first...I'm gonna put it together in the morning and fingers crossed it'll turn out good...I'm also building a 99 t/A convertable with a LT1 and am wondering how to install the motor after im done with the build...I pulled the engine and tranny out the front and quickly realized it wouldn't go back that way easily..So whats the trick?????

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 60dgrzbelow0 View Post
            Here are some supporting scans to precisely back up Mr. Pink's information and give you something you can print out and use...
            Originally posted by 3400beretta View Post
            Not Mr. Pink.
            LMAO... Rodney was Mistaken for me...

            Got Lope?
            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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            • #21
              I hate this intake set up....Can someone please tell me how to put the upper plenum back on???I know it sounds like a stupid question but i took the upper off with the fuel injectors attached....Don't think it'll go back in the same way....This is by far the hardest head gasket job i have ever done....I'd rather do 3 mitsubshi DOHC head jobs before i'll ever consider doing another 5 gen F-body with ANY ENGINE...Also can anyone tell me how to install an engine in a 99 T/A convertable???Thank you all for the help..Without this site im sure i would of set fire to the damn thing!!!!!!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
                LMAO... Rodney was Mistaken for me...
                Mea Culpa. Mr. Pink... I do beg your pardon... It was the "3400..." lead in that hypnotized me...

                Say... this is OT...but... remember your post on "Cryogenic Hardening of the Timing Set"...? If you are interested... Here is how to easily make your own "Poor Man's Liquid Nitrogen" to experiment with on dipping parts into:

                UNSAFE, NOT FOR KIDS! Main article: http://bit.ly/TNXQ7 http://amasci.com/amateur/liquid_n2.htmlCan't get liquid nitrogen? Then make your own -80C/110F fak...
                Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 06-12-2010, 07:27 AM.

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                • #23
                  I've found a couple of methods that work for adjusting the valves are to either adjust them with the motor running (which can be extremelly messy if you don't have the tools to plug the oil port . . . although, CarQuest sells the tool for like $5 or so) . . . or, you can do each cylinder individually (which is my preferred method).

                  With the valve covers off, rotate the motor until both valves on #1 are closed. Loosen the nut on one rocker until the arm is loose, grip the pushrob with your thumb and index finger, and slowly tighten the nut until you just reach the point that you feel no up and down movement. Give the nut another .5 - .75 of a turn. Do the same for the next valve. Once that cylinder is done, move onto the next cylinder - rotate the motor by hand until both valves are closed and adjust both rockers. Repeat. (I've found it easiest just to go through the firing sequence)

                  It's a bit more time consuming than the factory method, but you're not hopping around from one side of the motor to the other and "randomly" adjusting valves, either. It can be easy to make a mistake and miss a valve, or do a valve twice.


                  @camarohead - yeah, the upper intake on the RWD 3.4 is a PITGDA. You'll have to re-install the intake planum with the injector assembly (same way it comes off). The manifold bolts are a real mother to get at, and some of them you have to go by "feel." Try using a magnet to help set the bolts back into their holes, then use a socket with some extensions to start running them in by hand before you put the ratchet to them. It's been a long time since I've had to work on one of these setups, though, so I'm a little sketchy on any further ideas ATM . . .
                  N-body enthusiast:
                  {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
                  {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

                  Current Project:
                  {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

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