Install Fuel Injectors - Need Advise

[Schmieder]

1996 Grand Prix SE 3100v6

Installed a set of 36 lb/hr injectors a few days ago. Also had the rail mount bars for the upgraded injectors. Used new O-rings and added oil to the rings just before install.

The injectors snapped into the fuel rail nicely. The same with the LIM side.

But, after everything is bolted down and finished, I can spin the injectors on their axis. Is this normal? My old injectors were stiff, but that could be grim over the years locking them in.

I haven't been able to check them under fuel pressure yet.

Just hoping they will not leak. If being able to spin them easy is bad, what can I do?

Will larger o-rings help the situation?

btw, the injectors came with a set of o-rings and rail mounts. So all is matched up there. The injectors were sold as an up grade kit for the 3100/3400 engines as well so they are correct injectors.

It just doesn't feel like they will hold rail pressure. There is no other play, just easy to spin on the axis of install.

Thanks guys!

[Schmieder]

No responses ehhh.

I guess I'll find out soon enough when I test the rail pressure.

Or my question was obscured in babble,

Should fuel injectors rotate semi-easily when in place?

Or should they be stiff to rotate when in place?

[AleroB888]

No responses ehhh.

I guess I'll find out soon enough when I test the rail pressure.

Or my question was obscured in babble,

Should fuel injectors rotate semi-easily when in place?

Or should they be stiff to rotate when in place?

Yeah, you can rotate them. Especially when you hit em with WD-40.

[AleroB888]

.............

[RedZMonte]

mine spin as well.. thats normal, they are just sliding around in the rubbe o rings.. its all good.

[robertisaar]

Yeah, you can rotate them. Especially easily when you hit em with WD-40.

i wouldn't be doing that unless you're removing them... WD-40 eats rubber. at least natural rubber, i believe some synthetic rubbers are oil resistant.

[Schmieder]

Hey, thanks guys. I was concerned over nothing to be concerned about, lol.

The o-rings were graciously coated with good synthetic motor oil, 5w30.

Today, I have the check valves clamped in. The MAP Sensor required I cut the check valve shorter. The MAP Sensor sits about 1/2" back some so I need to get some bolts long enough and a spacer or nut to fill the gap and lock the sensor in.

To complete the downpipe, I either need some good jack stands, a lift or a shop to custom fab it for me. It's only 2 foot worth of pipe with two angles a little less then 45*s. Can't reach any further from the top. And the garage I'm in is flooding with water. Lots of snow melting.

So working under the body is not an option. I need to drive it to my new garage, which is dry, clean, warm, spacious and secure.