3.4 Frankenbird Won't Start!

[SappySE107]

guitar and vocals in the band. I play bass usually, and I play drums too.

[robertisaar]

guitar and vocals in the band. I play bass usually, and I play drums too.

so you ARE the band? like trent renzor? you just have other people play when it's live?

[SappySE107]

haha, no. We have been friends for years but I am the only one has has years of experience and practice already. I show them some stuff but for the most part they make up their own parts for drums and bass and we go from there. Its all about getting drunk and having fun. Hell, its my only day off, so I take advantage as best as I can

[ForcedFirebird]

Day off, what's that?

[tkoforpresident]

Be careful John, that's a dangerous self fulfilling prophesy your messing with.





How long can/should the first driving log be? I was thinking that i could take the bird around the block a couple times so we can get at least a starting point to see how much the VE is off.

is this acceptable?

Also, for best logging results, should i wait to take the car out until it's warmed up to operating temps?

thanks

[SappySE107]

As long as possible really, but we need to make sure it will not be dangerous to drive first. Around the block a couple times will be a good start. Warmed up is optimal, but as long as the O2 is heated up and the car is in closed loop, I can work with it for now.

[robertisaar]

How long can/should the first driving log be? I was thinking that i could take the bird around the block a couple times so we can get at least a starting point to see how much the VE is off.

Also, for best logging results, should i wait to take the car out until it's warmed up to operating temps?

if it's not up to temp, it's not going to be an entirely trust-worthy log...

as for driving around the block: as long as this block doesn't require a whole lot of re-adjusting the throttle, sure.

[SappySE107]

yeah, later on I would want it warmed up first, but for right now as long as its in closed loop, we can see if its way off or close.

[Weatheralls Auto]

Tuning newb here, but I would say let vehicle get to operating temp, then drive.
Can you scan while logging and driving?
You want to try and hit every cell, alwayss slight throttle movement up/down small hills if possible.
If you can scan , then watch you afr while driving.

[SappySE107]

He won't be driving enough to get the IAT back down to normal temp, so I am going to stick with my recommendation for closed loop and go. Hit every cell? I don't think so. Other than only having 3 cells, I am going by your assumption that there is more than idle, decel, and cruise, which there is not for OBD1. We don't want anything even close to WOT right now.

[Weatheralls Auto]

Sorry, newb, didnt mean cell, and atm I cant think of the correct word lol.
Basically hit every spot on the VE table.

And ya, closed loop and go I guess for now till VE is closer, then longer drives?

[robertisaar]

cell is the correct word, but it's going to be tough trying to hit every cell, first time out with that cam and no other VE tuning done yet...

[tkoforpresident]

thanks for all the advice. I know what to do now this first time around.

[tkoforpresident]

Ok guys. So i went over to datalog again today, this time with the latest .bin setup (6th version) and tuner pro wouldn't connect to the ECM with that chip in the PCM. Also, the cooling fan kicked on as soon as i turned the key "on" with that chip in place. I thought maybe there was something wrong with either the new chip/tune so i put the old chip back in (with .bin #5) on there (i have two chips and i continually swap them out with the newest .bin) and it acted normal. It let me connect to the ecm and the fan didn't kick on.

is there something physically wrong with the eeprom to make this happen?

Should i burn the new .bin on the chip that worked and see if it happens again?

Well, I brought a friend to check out the car and hear it run so i just decided to start it up with that .bin and not the new one. I logged it too (might as well since i had the equipment all set up) so maybe you guys can check it just to make sure it's as good as the last one. The .bin that is.

I do have some good news however. First off, I had my friend hold down the brake and pop it in DRIVE. The rpm's dropped nice and low again (650 or so) without stalling out. I stepped outside the driveway and away from the car and can now verify that this car sounds sicker than any v6 that i've ever heard in my life. John, your camshaft is epic.

Secondly, and much more importantly, while it was sitting in Drive with the brake pushed down i turned on the headlights, radio, and even the radiator fan (with my manual fan switch) and the voltage stayed up the whole time. What this means is that I think if we up the rpms a little (like in the newest .bin that didn't work on this last chip) than i can be quite sure that there will be no issues pertaining to voltage.

Sorry for that whole mouthful. If you guys could look at the log quickly and maybe offer up some insight/advice into why my chip wouldn't work I would be very grateful. I was just glad that the other chip worked otherwise i would have thought something was very wrong. instead, it must be either a corrupt .bin or chip.

let me know your thoughts.

max

[tkoforpresident]

ok... so for whatever reason none of the data was recorded.... now i'm stumped. I was almost certain that it was logging.