Try this......If you indeed do have a stuck open injector....run the engine at idle (you did say this problem is only at idle?) so the problem occurs.....shut the engine down and pull all the plugs. If there is only one (or more rich cylinder) the plugs should tell you which cylinders are rich. If they all are wet or fluffy black then the problems not necessarily injectors but is common to all cylinders and the rich situation is elsewhere as has been suggested above.
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Extremely rich idle
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Hey it also could be you ecu chip is shot I race beretta's I played with different chips and found that some will make it run rich which is good if ya want more power? Also ck voltage on your tps sensor make sure it works right should be .5 at idle and 4.5 open wide open hope it helps
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Originally posted by cteepe09 View PostHey it also could be you ecu chip is shot
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For the chip, I think I'm using the correct .bin file on it, 386211491108437882.bin ? Tho this is a California car (BAUB code) originally, hmm.. put it has passed the emission test in past years without issues on same .bin (i think) so it should not be chip related.
Condition of the PCV is unknown, it can be really old, at least 4 years. But could that really cause it run rich on idle? Oil has been changed every 3000 miles.
I am going to check that thing too if i can fit my hand in there... First thing i'm going to do later today is to swap the o2 sensor and try to see do i spot any changes... Then start pulling the plugs and continue to the plenum if i have to.Last edited by weba; 02-04-2010, 03:30 AM.
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I don't see how a PCV valve could cause a rich condition. If the O2 is original then yes it will run rich even though the BLM's show it as not.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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o2 is ignored at idle, check the coolant temp sensor and look for leaking injectors.
injectors should be around 12 ohms and change the temp sensor that's right under the thermostat neck.
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Originally posted by Superdave View Posto2 is ignored at idle, check the coolant temp sensor and look for leaking injectors.
injectors should be around 12 ohms and change the temp sensor that's right under the thermostat neck.
Its all coming back to a possible sticking injector.
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Okay i replaced plugs, wires and PCV with new ones, didn't see anything wrong in the old ones. Except the new plugs i got have number 44 on them and the old ones had 43, so they were one step colder.
Also replaced to other, known working O2 sensor.
BUT
I think that was all possibly for nothing?
I just compared the .bin file i used; BFUZ, It's for 92-94 J body 5 Speed 3.1.
It has 25649 bytes different than in the BAUB code what came stock in my 92 3.1 auto, so i re-flashed my chip with that. It sounds and feels different.
I think that has been the main issue over here, the code is just so different that it does not run perfect? But i have always thought it's the same engine physically, someone explain?
I think I'm going to try the emission test again with this setup, after raising the warm idle speed bit more, it's now 700rpm instead of 625 what it had on stock.. I may want to try 750-800 for smoothness...
If i fail emission test again, i will finally pull the intake and start measuring the injectors, how ever all the spark plugs looked perfect....Last edited by weba; 02-04-2010, 05:03 PM.
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Auto will sound and feel different as it's calibrated for auto with the idle/etc stuff.
3.1mpfi 5spd bin is what you should run if you have the a manual on it...
maybe the spark plugs being colder was just enough for it to not burn completely?? But it does sound like it might be leaky injectors as everything else is ruled out.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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This site lists the chip BAUB to be 91.. and my car is 92. Hmmh? I may want to try 91 L-body manual trans .bin to it, but i cannot seem to find one.
Anyhow my car has passed previous years, but i seem to lost track about what ever bin file i have used back then Since i always swap it for the inspection.. doh.
Edit: what ever 91-92 files i compare, there are shitloads of differences.. interesting.. Anyhow i need to check my car's built date to make sure.
Also seems like there really are differences in J and L body same year .bin files.
BFUZ (92 J manual) has 23889 Bytes different than BAUP (92 L manual)
Seems like i have several choices about what .bin to use on inspection..Last edited by weba; 02-04-2010, 06:33 PM.
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92/91 same damn engine/injectors. doesn't matter. Use the latest bin for a 3.1mpfi 5spd.
The J body manual bins may not have digital speedometer stuff... I think the later year ones did though.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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I would run BFUZ but compare the pinouts of a Jbody ECM with your own.
If you join up at v6z24.com there are pinouts in a sticky in the repair section for the '7730.
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Originally posted by Superdave View PostI would run BFUZ but compare the pinouts of a Jbody ECM with your own.Last edited by weba; 02-05-2010, 05:33 AM.
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