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  • Question : 95 Camaro 3.4L Head bolt stud

    Hello from a Michigan newbee. I just bought a 95 Camaro for my sons first ride, and am in the middle of replacing the head gaskets due to a broken head bolt/and subsequent blown gasket.
    My question to you fellow 3.4 L's is that I swear when I removed the heads, the one 'stud' head bolt came off the right head and was the second bolt back (for the alternator pencil brace ). My GM service manual shows the stud on the LEFT head, fwd most outer corner of cyl 2... throughout the manual.

    Can someone please confirm the lacation of the stud for me? I would hate to screw up my new bolts if I get it wrong.

    Thanks in advance, and thanks to all of you for making life easier thru this great site.

    Jim

  • #2
    Welcome!

    Although I don't have much experience with the RWD engines, you thought on the stud being for an alternator brace is probably correct. Is there any other brackets on the engine that could possibly require a stud? If not, I'd say your book is just wrong. Wait for some of the RWD guys to chime in, though...
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
    sigpic
    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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    • #3
      I got some pics here http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyou/newblock.htm you can take a look at. That is a 95 Camaro engine I bought for my S-10 un altered
      1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
      1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
      Because... I am, CANADIAN

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
        I got some pics here http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyou/newblock.htm you can take a look at. That is a 95 Camaro engine I bought for my S-10 un altered
        Thanks! Confirms I don't have CRS!

        Jim

        Comment


        • #5
          Project95...

          FWIW... In addition to the images mentioned by 'betterthanyou'...

          I have recorded a complete set of external and internal images showing the progressive and gradual teardown, disassembly, machining, service and re-assembly of this very motor as a work in progress. I believe there are some specific images there that will display the head bolts "in situ" and later when removed as a group in marked plastic bags that were also photographed as such to be able to distinguish them, one from another. Please keep in mind that there are also two sub-sets of additional images nested within this same link...and the main page of my photobucket contains even more albums that may serve as a ready reference to your inquiries about what this engine looks like...inside and out.

          Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!
          Attached Files
          Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-18-2010, 09:06 AM.

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          • #6
            yeah that stud is more or less useless. when you buy a "3.4 head bolt set" it will come with the stud and an extra bolt (at least mine did). I actually chose to just put a bolt in there instead of the stud since it's easier to work with. Don't freak out about it.

            93 Firebird 3.4
            Pacesetter Headers, Flowmaster 80, Comp 1.6 RR,Cloyes 2x Set, P&P Heads & Intakes, Custom Cam, Holley FPR, Ram Air Intake, Posi Rear w/3.42's & Disk Brakes.
            Cam and Heads by 60Inclusive.com

            Comment


            • #7
              I just pulled the heads on a '95 Camaro last weekend.

              Using the ultra-cool photos from 60dgrzbelow0's hard work...

              Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!


              The front-most, lower head bolt on the driver's side is a stud. 60dgrzbelow0 has a really good photo of that [If you want to wade thru all the photos, it's the photo on the left in the 4th row down on the 1st page (on 18 mar 2010) ] - here's a link to the exact photo I'm talking about:



              The lower 2nd bolt from the front on the passenger side is like a bolt with a nut on top of it... really odd. 60dgrzbelow0 has a really good photo of that [If you want to wade thru all the photos, it's the 2nd photo from right in the 1st row on the 2nd page (on 18 mar 2010)]- here's a link to the exact photo I'm talking about:



              I may have to re-use the bolt with the big nut on top, because my kit of replacement head bolts doesn't have anything like it.

              comments?
              Last edited by Syclone1452; 03-18-2010, 12:37 PM.
              Ron - Nevada, TX
              Care-giver to following GM 60-degree V6 vehicles:
              '95 Camaro 3.4
              '02 Olds Silhouette
              Owner of following GM other V6 vehicles:
              '91 Syclone
              '87 Grand National

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Syclone1452 View Post
                I just pulled the heads on a '95 Camaro last weekend.

                The front-most, lower head bolt on the driver's side is a stud.



                The lower 2nd bolt from the front on the passenger side is like a bolt with a nut on top of it... really odd.



                I may have to re-use the bolt with the big nut on top, because my kit of replacement head bolts doesn't have anything like it.

                comments?
                Thanks for the reply on this. What I found was that the stud/nut on the right head is a discontinued GM part. So, you have a 3 choices. 1. You can have your local chevy dealer search the country for available inventory and have them ship to you (if you have the time). #2. Re-use the one you have (but it's already been tq'd to yield) or 3. Use a 'normal' stud (I got an x-tra in my bolt kit) and put trust in one bolt holding the 'K' brace plate on the alternator/EGR support 'jungle gym'. My choice was (#3) to maintain head torque first and foremost. I can deal with the bracket later if the need arises.
                BTW, my Chevy dealer (Tennyson Chevy in Livonia, MI) ran a print off of all available studs in (chevy) stock in the country. Not over priced yet (4-6 bucks) but I opted for #3 to get my car on the road ASAP. JP
                Last edited by project95; 03-17-2010, 11:06 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by project95 View Post
                  Thanks for the reply on this. What I found was that the stud/nut on the right head is a discontinued GM part. So, you have a 3 choices. 1. You can have your local chevy dealer search the country for available inventory and have them ship to you (if you have the time). #2. Re-use the one you have (but it's already been tq'd to yield) or 3. Use a 'normal' stud (I got an x-tra in my bolt kit) and put trust in one bolt holding the 'K' brace plate on the alternator/EGR support 'jungle gym'. My choice was (#3) to maintain head torque first and foremost. I can deal with the bracket later if the need arises. BTW, my Chevy dealer (Tennyson Chevy in Livonia, MI) ran a print off of all available studs in (chevy) stock in the country. Not over priced yet (4-6 bucks) but I opted for #3 to get my car on the road ASAP. JP
                  Syclone1452 is displaying images I took of my identical engine head bolt removal. Folks...If you are going to refer to my photobucket postings in the future... please don't use individual images because all of my work there is designed to be comprehensive and not only to show how things come off this engine...but also how the new parts go back on and with the correct part numbers, too so please use the main page link to avoid any further confusion on how they are sourced.

                  Project95... FelPro makes a set of head bolts that includes the one special stud/bolt and should still be available. Here are the images of these and the box end with the appropriate part numbers to help when ordering them. You should avoid re-using your head bolts in the 60* engines as they are supposed to be torqued home and then stretched to their final hold point. Once stretched... they will not return to their slightly shorter length when unbolted. These and other related images are available on my photobucket site here:

                  Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-19-2010, 02:33 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 60dgrzbelow0 View Post
                    Syclone1452 is displaying images I took of my identical engine head bolt removal. Syclone...If you are going to refer to my photobucket postings in the future... please don't use individual images because all of my work there is designed to be comprehensive and not only to show how things come off this engine...but also how the new parts go back on and with the correct part numbers, too so please use the main page link to avoid any further confusion that implies you took them.
                    Don't worry; I wasn't trying to steal any of your work or claim any of it was mine. I was only trying to show what the special bolts look like. I didn't want folks to have to wade thru over six dozen photos to see a couple bolts. I'll edit my orignal post to give you credit...

                    Project95... FelPro makes a set of head bolts that includes the one special stud/bolt and should still be available.
                    That set only has the stud used on the left side. It does not have the bolt-with-the-nut-on-top that is used on the right side. I already have the Felpro box-o-bolts.

                    FYI,
                    The FSM says to use new bolts, but the Haynes manual tells you to keep track of 'em and re-use them... how sad is that...
                    Last edited by Syclone1452; 03-18-2010, 12:40 PM.
                    Ron - Nevada, TX
                    Care-giver to following GM 60-degree V6 vehicles:
                    '95 Camaro 3.4
                    '02 Olds Silhouette
                    Owner of following GM other V6 vehicles:
                    '91 Syclone
                    '87 Grand National

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sy... Thanks for understanding... Just to see if it can be done without too much fanfare... I'm going to dope out how much trouble it would be to just cut that Effing hexnut fitting off of the old bolt...and then braze it right on top of a brand new head bolt. If I can make it work, I'll post the before and after photos as an alternative to not being able to have the alternator bracket properly supported. Just as in computers vs. software to drive development... its always the silliest things they use to motivate us to stop trying to fix our cars...and just buy a Brand New One...to solve these little problems.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        But B4 it comes to anything as extravagant as all that... I wonder what input either John (Forced Firebird) or CNCGuy might offer on the possibility of using the original Hex Post Bolt...but perhaps using a thin, hardened shim like a washer under the bolt face ...to take up what length the bolt has already been stretched to...and whether the actual stretching compromises the strength of the bolt to the point where it will not hold with as much enthusiasm as its brand new brethren.... Inquiring minds want to know...
                        Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-29-2010, 02:14 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Syclone1452,

                          Im just about to find out what you just found out. Ive got a 95 camaro 3.4L with the felpro gasket and head bolt kit.

                          You are right the Felpro bolt set does not come with the HEX post bolt. I forget what the hell that bolts into that one now. Is it the exhaust mainfold/exhaust recirculator? Do we really need to bolt that down?

                          My kit came with a loose bolt with a thicker collar/face (between the head and the shank), I assume Felpro thinks I am supposed to use that in place of the Hex topped bolt. Has anyone called Felpro to ask them? Is this bolt Felpro's mistake (some line worker threw in the wrong bolt in the box?)

                          60dgrz,

                          Is it really the alternator bracket support?

                          I would not weld them together because they are differing alloys (one looks aluminum). Brazing would be the same, but either way the heat could possible weaken the bolt's molecular structural integrity (tempered). Bolts that are stretched have lost their initial elasticity, the only way possible to reuse the bolt would be to overtorque it, but that would be pushing (going past) the limits the bolt can take, esp. under load.

                          All,

                          If no one calls Felpro by tomorrow I'll call to see whats up. If no luck I'll just throw the misc. loose bolt in there before I braze or weld the old hex top on..

                          -Brian
                          95 Camaro 155,000
                          89 Eldorado 190,000
                          98 Dodge 1500 210,000
                          67 Firebird 454

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by shwgidy View Post
                            Syclone1452,

                            Im just about to find out what you just found out. Ive got a 95 camaro 3.4L with the felpro gasket and head bolt kit.

                            You are right the Felpro bolt set does not come with the HEX post bolt. I forget what the hell that bolts into that one now. Is it the exhaust mainfold/exhaust recirculator? Do we really need to bolt that down?

                            My kit came with a loose bolt with a thicker collar/face (between the head and the shank), I assume Felpro thinks I am supposed to use that in place of the Hex topped bolt. Has anyone called Felpro to ask them? Is this bolt Felpro's mistake (some line worker threw in the wrong bolt in the box?)

                            60dgrz, Is it really the alternator bracket support?

                            I would not weld them together because they are differing alloys (one looks aluminum). Brazing would be the same, but either way the heat could possible weaken the bolt's molecular structural integrity (tempered). Bolts that are stretched have lost their initial elasticity, the only way possible to reuse the bolt would be to overtorque it, but that would be pushing (going past) the limits the bolt can take, esp. under load.

                            All,

                            If no one calls Felpro by tomorrow I'll call to see whats up. If no luck I'll just throw the misc. loose bolt in there before I braze or weld the old hex top on..

                            -Brian
                            Yes... the attached images show a small, angled and pre-threaded bracket that has one of its two supporting pads screwed into the top of that damned Hex Bolt...

                            And I concur that tinkering with the bolt's strength and hardness by means of introducing either welding or brazing heat was probably not the best idea I've ever had.... but now we come to something I was thinking of that might really work and solve this problem once and for all.

                            Remember that one odd bolt included in the box of FelPro Headbolts that has the threaded bolt designed to support the Power Steering Pump/Fuel Line Brackets on the Driver's Side of the engine? Well... that item has a separate Part Number that could be used to order an additional one...and then just find a double sided Metric Female Barrel Nut to screw over that protruding bolt after torqueing it down in place with the other new head bolts and then that little angle bracket that supports the lower black alternator bracket could once again be bolted back in place!

                            "It ...Could ... WORK!" (Gene Wilder... Young Frankenstein...)
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 04-01-2010, 09:33 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The last time I needed one, I just ordered it from my local Chevy dealer. It was cheap, and it was the "CORRECT!!!" bolt for the application. Sometimes re-engineering the original concept will tend to poison the results.

                              If you ain't rock and roll, you must be driving a Honda

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