Question : Repairing Steel Fuel Lines

[Schmieder]

Is there an adapter that can lock onto steel line similar to a -6AN Braided Line Adapter, example

I know there are adapters that lock onto barbed fittings with a female -#AN fitting.

Or can I weld on an -#AN fitting to the steel line? Though, I'de rather not weld. i would have to remove the line and clean out fuel and at that point I might as well just replace.

I have a busted fuel line right after the fuel filter. It would be far cheaper to link up at the busted spot then to run new braided steel line.

Or suppose I bought new steel line (not the braided but solid), how would I attach a male fitting to connect to the fuel filter?

I am a NOOB when it comes to repairing fuel lines.

EDIT: The break isn't from rust or age, it was from removing a fuel filter. The line was bent too far by mistake and split. So I cut the split. Right now I have high pressure hose merging the busted area, but doesn't fit right (very tight and sealed, no leak under pressure but filter sits out) and the fuel filter is sticking out some. Could be dangerous if the underside of the car was skirted, ripping the fuel line open.

If this a relatively inexpensive repair at a local auto shop, I would consider sourcing the work to them. Any general quotes on price average to replace fuel line from filter to fuel rail for a 96 GP SE?

May seem like a real noob question. I am just very cautious when dealing with the fuel system, for obvious reasons.

[pocket-rocket]

The right way to fix it without replacing the whole line is probably how I just got done fixing a brake line that rusted out right in front of a wheel on an Oldsmobile that belongs to a friend of mine. You need line nuts and a flare union the right size for your lines, and a double flaring tool set.

EDIT: FWIW, I would get some spare line and practice flaring on it a few times before just diving right in to doing it on your fuel lines. You will also want a tubing cutter so that you can make a nice perfectly square cut to flare on. You always need a clean square cut to flare or your flare will end up being crap.

EDIT take 2...: I found a video on youtube that shows how to do it really well, and it's in HD. The one big thing to watch out for (which he covers) is how far the tube sticks out of the clamping bar. The newer sets have a guide for it built into the arbors. If you have too much sticking out the flare will crack and obviously not seal. If you don't have enough, the flare won't be formed correctly and will be incomplete and will not seal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkiG8CTZ5Po

[Schmieder]

The right way to fix it without replacing the whole line is probably how I just got done fixing a brake line that rusted out right in front of a wheel on an Oldsmobile that belongs to a friend of mine. You need line nuts and a flare union the right size for your lines, and a double flaring tool set.

EDIT: FWIW, I would get some spare line and practice flaring on it a few times before just diving right in to doing it on your fuel lines. You will also want a tubing cutter so that you can make a nice perfectly square cut to flare on. You always need a clean square cut to flare or your flare will end up being crap.

EDIT take 2...: I found a video on youtube that shows how to do it really well, and it's in HD. The one big thing to watch out for (which he covers) is how far the tube sticks out of the clamping bar. The newer sets have a guide for it built into the arbors. If you have too much sticking out the flare will crack and obviously not seal. If you don't have enough, the flare won't be formed correctly and will be incomplete and will not seal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkiG8CTZ5Po

Excellent! I'm glad to see such good info. Unfortunately, I have been busy with my laptop. I backed up all my storage on DVD, wiped the hard drives and set up a nice dual boot system. Didn't have a chance to view responses until now.

Flaring, yeah that makes sense practicing first. I figured, why spend more on braided steel lines when regular steel lines will work just as well for my application. I may just replace anyways.

My laptop is all set for a good tuning platform. I have a 4096MB Primary Partition at the beginning of the HD, where it is at it's fastest. This is where the virtual memory and all temp files are placed. Makes fragmentation localized and keeps the system a bit more stable. It is always better to have the virtual memory and temp files read/write faster then the windows/program files.

I also installed Ubuntu 8.10 so i can start to investigate hacking the PCM soon.

Hot Damn, I will be purchasing my custom turbo kit in a day or two.

If all goes as planned, I should have all the materials by Jan 27th. I'll give myself a month to put it together. A lot of time but I like to go slow and sure, no mistakes.


Thanks Pocket-Rocket. Your advice saved me some cash and frustration.