Pilot Bushing & Oil Pump Pickup Tube/Screen Instal

[HJR1]

Hey all, I'm putting that new to me motor in my '87 S15 and have a couple of questions. The donor engine is out of a 2wd auto and the S15 is a 4x4 stick. I bought a new oil pump pickup screen since I need to use the 4x4 oil pan and it's deeper. I removed the old one, (pickup screen/tube), by simply turning and pulling on it since there's no bracket or mount of any kind. Do I install the new one by just turning and pushing? Is there a trick to installing that I should know? Hate to have it fall off while driving, lol.
Secondly, when I put a new pilot bushing in my S10s 2.8 I just pounded it in. Mushroomed the end to where the input shaft wouldn't get in. Tore the bushing out and installed another. Same thing. I ended up using, ahhhh, unconventional means of reaming it out to where it'd accept the input shaft. Any good tricks on doing this one right so I don't go through all that again?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
-HJR

[pocket-rocket]

The last time I put a strainer in an oil pump, I grabbed the tube with vice grips (not hard enough to kink the tubing) right behind the flared spot that stops it from going farther in the pump. Then I used a hammer and smacked the vice grips right behind where I had grabbed the tube to drive it in. I do believe they make a tool for grabbing it in case vice grips on oil pump pickup tubes scares you. Also you can tack weld it in a couple spots to make sure it doesn't fall out. Had I had a welder when I did this engine, I would have done that as an extra measure, but it is a tight fit so it's not 100% necessary. What did you use to drive the new pilot bushing in? I used a socket the same diameter and it worked fine, until I drove it in a little far. The hole must be tapered or something because mine did almost the same thing, except it didn't taper, so I too had to do some reaming just to get the alignment tool in it.

[geoffinbc]

Install the pickup by finding a wrench that fits over the tube but not the sholdered part and then tap it in. Set the depth and then tack it in place. I hope you are using a NEW pump and you should upgrade to the all iron 3.1L/3.4L pump. A 4X4 pickup tube with a 3/4" diameter tube is available from Melling.

The pilot bushing can be installed with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. There is no need to drive it deep into the crank. Just make it flush with the crank.

[HJR1]

Cr*p, I will be installing a new pump now, I just broke the old one off trying to install the new pickup. There goes my plans, I was planning on instaling this engine over the long weekend.

I did the socket thing with the pilot bushing on the S-10, I'll try the block of wood this time and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help guys!

[60dgrzbelow0]

HJR1...

This is the recommended method to do the job of installing an Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube to an Oil Pump with all appropriate "Dos and Don'ts" warnings and use of the proper tool for the job:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3eEog

The easiest was to remove a Pilot Bearing is to simply fill the cavity-hole of the crankshaft inside the bearing/bushing with some thick bearing grease and after lining up some type of rod, bolt or socket that closely (almost ) matches the inside diameter of the brass bushing/bearing...just give it some healthy smacks with a Dead Blow hammer on the end of the rod, bolt or socket...and the incompressible hydraulic pressure imposed on that dollop of grease should instantly pop that bushing right out of the end of the pressure plate/crankshaft end. If not... just keep adding grease to fill the vacancy and hammer away until it finally comes out on the shaft. (sort of "Wash, Rinse...Repeat..). Don't forget to wear eye protection and don't lose control of the hammer! Have a look here at how this works...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSGD9UuI5-I&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWBdhvsTZAM

For those who eschew "grease" and in lieu, prefer the "Soggy Paper" Technique ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuR7T8G1Ys&NR=1

...and as for installing the Pilot Bearing...this fellow has a series of "How-To" videos on the subject...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKe0UmZ2kGQ

[HJR1]

Thanks for the info 60dgrz, ouch, I can vouch for the *NEVER* when it comes to installing the pickup screen with the oil pump installed on the engine. That was a $45 lesson.

I got the new pump yesterday, installed the screen with the vise grips as I couldn't find that tool locally. Not too happy with the gouges it left on the tube's rib, but what's done is done.

I installed the pilot bushing with a rubber mallet. Looks like it's in far enough and I don't see any evidence of mushrooming this one. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Got the engine back together, put the new flywheel on, reinstalled the clutch. Should be ready to go in today. Not looking forward to this part though, they really didn't give the 4x4s enough room to work around.

Thanks again!

[HJR1]

Sorta off topic, I'm hijacking my own thread here. But does anyone know where to get the gasket that goes between the mating surfaces of the transmission/transfer case? I had to separate them to pull the tranny out and I'm ready to reassemble.

TIA!

[pocket-rocket]

I looked for one for a 4x4 F150 I did a throw out bearing and slave cylinder in and when I went to the parts store, they said using sillycone there is fine since it is a dry area and the gasket only is there to keep junk out from between the tranny/transfer case.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Thanks for the info 60dgrz, ouch, I can vouch for the *NEVER* when it comes to installing the pickup screen with the oil pump installed on the engine. That was a $45 lesson.

I got the new pump yesterday, installed the screen with the vise grips as I couldn't find that tool locally. Not too happy with the gouges it left on the tube's rib, but what's done is done.

Thanks again!

FWIW...

If you ever have to do this installation again and cannot sacrifice a wrench that sports a slightly larger interior space by grinding in a concavity... th easiest method to use is to take some large salt water "Lead Pyramid weights...or even better...a 2"-3" length of lead wheel weights would also work...and simply pound them into a a flat semi-circular shape and then wrap the lead around the Oil Pump Pick-Up Pipe... just above the bulge stopper and then... fit the wrench over the lead as you hammer the pipe home. If the lead is at least 1/8th of an inch in thickness...it will absorb and distribute the force of the hammer blows more evenly and the pipe will be less likely to cant sideways or get stuck in an off angle position.

By the time the short end is sunk into the oil pump... the sacrificial "Lead Wrap" will have done its job and the Oil Pump Pick-Up tube will be polished and undamaged. Please... Don't eat or drink anything after this work is done until you can thoroughly clean the lead-lead oxide off of your hands and discard the used lead in a responsible manner. Pb is a Heavy Metal that is high on the EPA list for human toxicity...and if posioned...chellation therapy is the only thing that will save the poor soul thus afflicted from getting permanent nerve damage and/or other neropathies or neurological disease.

[HJR1]

60dgrz, thanks for the tip, I'll remember that for next time. I may even buy the install wrench to have on hand for next time.

Pocket_Rocket, either this one is designed different or I have a problem, there was a gasket between the two and when I broke it I lost a LOT of tranny fluid from the transfer and transmission.

[pocket-rocket]

Odd, I was under the impression that dry between the two was the norm for 4x4 trucks. Maybe there are bad shaft seals? Either way, I can't see silicone not working if you can't find a gasket. There are vents in the top of the tranny and maybe the transfer case so there shouldn't be too much pressure in there. Even so if there were pressure in there black RTV should hold just fine in a pinch.

[HJR1]

If you're a member of the S10 forum sorry about this crosspost, I'm just trying to get all the input I can on this, it's kind of confusing as most say it should be dry, but it doesn't look like it sould be. The Haynes manual is of no help of course:

You know, I don't think it's supposed to be dry in there after all. I crawled back under there last night to take a look at the tranny seal and there isn't one and there's no place for one. The housing is open and you can visually follow the shaft all the way to the gears in the transmission. It looks like the gasket sealing the two units together is what keeps the fluid in the tranny.

[geoffinbc]

If it is an auto trans then yes it is wet in there. A common failure is the seal failing and the transfer case taking all the oil of the auto trans and flooding out and of course starving the trans of oil.

GM will have the gasket and if not you can use anaerobic flange sealant

[HJR1]

No, it's a manual. 5spd. But like I said, it must be wet in there by design as the housing is open clear into the transmission. No seal & no place for one.

I found the gasket, AC Delco #15642511, if anyone wants the number.

[HJR1]

I took some pics to better explain what it is I'm looking at here. Okay, here's the pics, you can see there's no place for a seal and you can follow the shaft clear up to the gears: