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1. What is the required fuel pressure for the Throttle Body Injector?
2. Challenge: If you think you can fix anything and up for a challenge, read on. I want this car back on the road.
12/20/09
Vehicle:
1995 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 3.1L
History:
September: I returned from a 400 mile trip, parked the vehicle. The following morning it did not start. It had absolutely no spark at the plug wire. After a few test with a volts meter (as per Chilton manual), pickup coil replacement was indicated. I replace the entire distributor with a rebuilt. Car ran fine. Problem solved.
November: I filled my fuel tank with barely a gallon remaining. Within 10 miles, the vehicle began to miss and buck. I discovered that if I accelerated I could move more smoothly. The trouble got worse. After consulting my Chilton, I changed the fuel filter, and added fuel treatments to the tank, suspecting it was the last refueling that spurred the incident. The condition got better, and the vehicle was drivable, but not normal.
I drove to another town about 50 miles away, and it began to buck again. I drove it home using the same accelerate-decelerate cycle to maintain a highway speed. Eventually that system began fail. First, I was only able to maintain a speed of 20 mph, by holding the accelerator to the floor -- could hear the engine suck air. Finally, I finished the last 5 miles at a 10 mph maximum – pedal to the floor.
Next day: Woke to a no-start condition. Checked fuel pressure (10psi-OK), and found no codes (initially).
Tested MAP, TPS, based on Chilton trouble shooting section. I replaced the MAP sensor. Tried cranking the engine--During cranking, the engine would fire but not run. Eventually, once it had warmed from partial-start under cranking , the engine would idle. Engine would buck and die when accelerator was pressed.
I tested the voltage at the TPS. No change when rotated, so I replaced the TPS-- Condition unchanged.
Computer threw VSS code, which can happen with a fault in the engine temperature circuit. OK, it’s off to the experts (?).
Off to Mr. GoodWrench: I took it a local GM garage. After $170.00 worth of testing, including catalytic converter removal, EGR, etc, they determined there was “nothing mechanically wrong” and suggested changing the ECU. They recommended an ECU change because Timing was jumping around, suggesting the electronic spark timer was defective. ECU was replaced – No Change.
Could the new distributor have failed? Is there a short in the system?
Cure this car, if you can.
2. Challenge: If you think you can fix anything and up for a challenge, read on. I want this car back on the road.
12/20/09
Vehicle:
1995 Chevrolet Lumina APV; 3.1L
History:
September: I returned from a 400 mile trip, parked the vehicle. The following morning it did not start. It had absolutely no spark at the plug wire. After a few test with a volts meter (as per Chilton manual), pickup coil replacement was indicated. I replace the entire distributor with a rebuilt. Car ran fine. Problem solved.
November: I filled my fuel tank with barely a gallon remaining. Within 10 miles, the vehicle began to miss and buck. I discovered that if I accelerated I could move more smoothly. The trouble got worse. After consulting my Chilton, I changed the fuel filter, and added fuel treatments to the tank, suspecting it was the last refueling that spurred the incident. The condition got better, and the vehicle was drivable, but not normal.
I drove to another town about 50 miles away, and it began to buck again. I drove it home using the same accelerate-decelerate cycle to maintain a highway speed. Eventually that system began fail. First, I was only able to maintain a speed of 20 mph, by holding the accelerator to the floor -- could hear the engine suck air. Finally, I finished the last 5 miles at a 10 mph maximum – pedal to the floor.
Next day: Woke to a no-start condition. Checked fuel pressure (10psi-OK), and found no codes (initially).
Tested MAP, TPS, based on Chilton trouble shooting section. I replaced the MAP sensor. Tried cranking the engine--During cranking, the engine would fire but not run. Eventually, once it had warmed from partial-start under cranking , the engine would idle. Engine would buck and die when accelerator was pressed.
I tested the voltage at the TPS. No change when rotated, so I replaced the TPS-- Condition unchanged.
Computer threw VSS code, which can happen with a fault in the engine temperature circuit. OK, it’s off to the experts (?).
Off to Mr. GoodWrench: I took it a local GM garage. After $170.00 worth of testing, including catalytic converter removal, EGR, etc, they determined there was “nothing mechanically wrong” and suggested changing the ECU. They recommended an ECU change because Timing was jumping around, suggesting the electronic spark timer was defective. ECU was replaced – No Change.
Could the new distributor have failed? Is there a short in the system?
Cure this car, if you can.