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Damn... Sorry about the accidental "Double Post"...
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Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 12-06-2009, 07:32 PM. -
Even though his Engine-Transmission pull involved a transverse combo versus my RWD scenario... seeing WalterDude's post on his pull has given me some more ideas on trying to pre-build some "chockablocks" like he did to support the set up with my situation by having a sort of under bracing that will keep the whole thing from rolling around on the new Engine-Transmission Cradle like a Beached Whale. So once again, Tom... Thanks for these looks at your own work. I'm going to grab about six (6) 4"X4" X 8' posts and build a rack similar to what you did on yours... because I absolutely hate having to bend down and crawl around on my knees while doing any Meck-Werk.
I still have to wonder how the installation of this set up will go with the Pacesetter Headers bolted on high and tight with the ARP Bolts from a Honda Civic Pressure Plate squeezing the new RemFlex Graphite Header Gaskets. I'm hoping I can completely dress the engine before lowering the car on top of the new Engine-Transmission... without squashing or denting any of the header piping.
Attached FilesLast edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 12-16-2009, 09:43 AM.Comment
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Engine Removal ..."For Those in the Know... about the...FEE-AIR-OH..."
Damn John... When you got your new shop...did they throw in one of these lifts?
Oh well... I guess this is ALWAYS ANOTHER WAY TO PULL IT!..
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 12-19-2009, 05:02 PM.Comment
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Wow, haven't checked this thread out in awhile!! Actually, Bob, that was just the ATV jack with the 2x4s attached, as pictured. When I jacked it up to a comfortable working position I put 4x4s across, under the 2x4s (attached to the jack) and put jack-stands under those. When you let the ATV jack down onto them it gets real solid.. That's what I liked about the jack,,, once the car is up you wheel in the ATV jack and jack it up to the subframe. Unbolt that, drop down the ATV jack and wheel it out. When you get it where you want to work on it, jack it up and support it with the 4x4s and jack-stands. Do the work and lower it down so you can just wheel it under the car.. Then jack it up into the engine bay and bolt up the sub-frame,,, then you get the ATV jack out of there and tell it THANKS!!! That way I only had to jack the car up once... Good to see some progress. I need to go back a ways and catch up on this....
Been working on my car lately, yesterday it almost made it to 20*. At least I got a trailer hitch on the car now... Just got to wire the lights up and cut off the muffler and see how bad it will be to put the new one on,, probably gonna need at least a tack weld to hold it together... Why do these things always happen in the coldest weather???
Oh well, it does feel good when you're successfully done!!!
Luck, and keep us updated!!!
Tom...Comment
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Don't know why, but this double posted....
Tom...Last edited by walterdude; 12-19-2009, 06:49 PM.Comment
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Christ, Tom... I have no idea how anybody can work in Cold Weather... I'm glad they haven't found you under the car ...frozen like a friggin' Popsicle...Originally posted by walterdude View Post Your ingenuity is being adapted in this case to work primarily to get the Engine and Transmission lowered down onto my new Engine-Transmission solid steel plate, six wheeler cradle... and once out... I want to be able to raise everything up to a sturdy four point wooden stand that is strong enough to keep everything around waist height (in my case, at 6'1"...I need it to be around 3-4 feet off of the deck).
Since I have the ATV match to your Jack... I'm considering either bolting or welding just the angle carriers and the hydraulic pump on the unit onto the new cradle...but re-positioning the pump hose to an external hand pump from my 20 Ton Press. That way...I can raise and lower it with even more control when it comes time to unbolt the K-Frame and the works and move around to eyeball all the alignments. I want the whole rig to settle down on the cradle in flat, level state....and without using any more force than a baby being placed in a blanket.
I've gotten some great help today on another post involving a new member (LovinLyfe4dub) who took a whole raft of close up images of his own 4th Gen Camaro empty engine compartment, firewall, lower interior left and right sides and the transmission tunnel. He is still in the process of parting out this car:
Many Thanks to LovinLyfe4dub for these:
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 12-21-2009, 08:58 PM.Comment
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I am a bit late to this thread, so sue me
John's "Jenga" is actually the proper way to make your jack stands reach higher. I have a set of the same type of deal, but I made my 2x4's shorter, giving it a smaller foot print (and leaving less open space between blocks for stability and strength where the jack stands contact it). My jack stands also have a rectangle base, not triangle, so the total foot print for my cribbing (the name of the contraption) was about 1 inch larger than the footprint on my jack stands. Anyone who thinks cribbing is not safe would be wrong (if built correctly). When I worked at Miller Building Systems building custom modular industrial buildings the buildings went sideways down the line on a trolly system. Once at the end huge hydraulic jacks with cylinders about 8" diameter were used to jack the structure up at the 4 corners so that cribbing could be placed under in 6 or 8 spots (depending on building length). All of the cribbing we used was made with 2x6's, and some of it was close to 3 feet tall. Never once did a building fall over from cribbing failing, nor did any building ever fall on anyone, or I could possibly not be here as well.
BTW, at least they had the music right in that engine pulling video... I would have rather used a rope across a rafter or just had all of them grab a hold of it and pull it out by hand, or tie a rope to a 4x4 stretched across the engine bay with a 1 foot rope tied to it and the engine and had a guy at each end put it on their shoulders and use their legs to lift it out- it was only a 4 cylinder!-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay Leno
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Took it apart again today haha...
The lift cuts time by at least 75%. Took about 1.5 hrs to take the entire suspensions systems out (would have taken a little longer if the motor/trans were in of course).Comment
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Hello pocket-rocket... I'm glad to see you posting again after mentioning your extended illness some time back... Here is hoping that you have a better, healthier year in 2010 and beyond. Your observations are interesting and correct as they relate to "buildings" that are subject to their inertia in ways that an elevated automobile equipped with the ability to rotate over its rear end axis do not. The central reason your "buildings" behaved so well while being jacked asymmetrically was because of one simple physics principle: Inertia; the major physical aspect being that the inertia of any massive object tends to either maintain its mass either at rest...if resting...like a building is supposed to do...or remain in motion once that mass is accelerated as making a building accelerate is an extremely hard thing to do because they are generally ...very massive and heavy.Originally posted by pocket-rocket View PostI am a bit late to this thread, so sue me John's "Jenga" is actually the proper way to make your jack stands reach higher. I have a set of the same type of deal, but I made my 2x4's shorter, giving it a smaller foot print (and leaving less open space between blocks for stability and strength where the jack stands contact it). My jack stands also have a rectangle base, not triangle, so the total foot print for my cribbing (the name of the contraption) was about 1 inch larger than the footprint on my jack stands. Anyone who thinks cribbing is not safe would be wrong (if built correctly). When I worked at Miller Building Systems building custom modular industrial buildings the buildings went sideways down the line on a trolly system. Once at the end huge hydraulic jacks with cylinders about 8" diameter were used to jack the structure up at the 4 corners so that cribbing could be placed under in 6 or 8 spots (depending on building length). All of the cribbing we used was made with 2x6's, and some of it was close to 3 feet tall. Never once did a building fall over from cribbing failing, nor did any building ever fall on anyone, or I could possibly not be here as well.
BTW, at least they had the music right in that engine pulling video... I would have rather used a rope across a rafter or just had all of them grab a hold of it and pull it out by hand, or tie a rope to a 4x4 stretched across the engine bay with a 1 foot rope tied to it and the engine and had a guy at each end put it on their shoulders and use their legs to lift it out- it was only a 4 cylinder!
Conversely... Any average sized man with even a modicum of strength can either intentionally or as it happens more often than it should... accidentally... push a car off of either a car jack or completely off of its jack stands. On the other hand...you could jack up one corner of your Industrial Building...and put each and every member of this forum on the other end of the building...and with everybody pushing in earnest...we would not be able to move that building even a fraction of an inch. That is the important distinction.
The only reason I keep stressing an abundance of caution here... is that I will only mention advice about the projects I work on in the most responsible way I can muster so that nobody...no one...ever thinks that jacking a car into the position that leaves it looking like a solid rocket booster for any amount of time it takes as necessary to remove an entire K-Frame with an engine and transmission bolted on is a trivial matter and become hurt because I may have given them the wrong impression of how it should be done. It certainly is possible to just sort of create a stack of wood that can be used to rest the car down upon ...call it cribbing... or anything else you will... but that would never be the advice that I would give anyone who wants to shade the fates on the side of caution and safety. However, when it comes to moving and jacking enormous buildings with the sectional density of a mountain, I defer to your knowledge and experience on how to do so in safety.
Just look at those images of John's New Hydraulic Car Hoist Lift... Do you think he would trade that lift mechanism for the "pile of sticks" he used the first time he worked on the Virginian's Car? Not me... Brother.. Not me.Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-01-2010, 05:43 PM.Comment
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John... Did you happen to take any images of where the six K-Frame Bolts/Fasteners are situated? I'm still working on the wooden docking station frame that the K-Member and contents will rest down on and I want to make sure I have clearance on all sides to be able to get the tools in to remove the bolts, ect., when the time comes... Thanks...Comment
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Searching for something else and found this 3.4L to 350 V8 Engine Swap thread in another forum. Please... GM V6 Purists...resist the chance to knock my block off for posting this information involving an eight cylinder swap-in because the most important images that concern my own Engine R&R Project are well down to the last images that show the naked under body of the car... Nonetheless... I'm sure this question comes up in here from time to time and this thread can answer all the questions about the move...and Jon (FF) is famous for saying...
"The Only Difference ...Between Men and Boys...Is the Price of Their Toys!"
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-06-2010, 07:25 PM.Comment
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I am doing a similar project, but it's a white Camaro and instead of going v8, it's getting a hybrid. Post more about it later and keep the thread on track...
when's the scheduled date of removal? Do I need to come over there and put some flame under your "toosh"? :PComment
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John... Ironically... that burning sensation in the middle of my gut about getting this project finally completed was a flame that was lit from eye-balling your own R&R of the drive train on "The Virginian's" Firebird... so I have more than enough motivation... but to amplify on the reasons this has been taking so long had initially to do with money and other commitments I made to my college age kids that always intruded... and then something very bad happened that forced me off the garage floor and into the hospital and surgery.Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
When you get on into your 60s... like most things that show the wear and tear of age... Human Beings are very much like cars. Ordinarily, I am considered much healthier and ever so much stronger than most people are that are half my age and you can take it to be true that in a knuckle busting fight... I could probably make most of them "Tap Out" if they even stayed awake long enough to worry about it. Even my young and very strapping son is often surprised and comments to his friends, "My Dad is so Damned Strong... He has Muscles in his Shit!"
But back in August of last year.. I got sucker-punched by something very nasty growing inside my innards and it was only an accident that prompted me to go to the Dox to get things checked out that has kept me from taking that "Long Dirt Nap". Fast Forward past some excellent and successful surgery and some rehab (and a drop so far of about 45 lbs down to about 240..)... and pretty soon I will be in good enough shape to once again crawl around under my Son's Black 'Maro and get his car running right again. So Brother John... if you do feel the need to kick me in the "Tush"... it will be the only place on me that has NOT been hurting in a very long time... and the one place that the Big "C" could not do it!
I know I often digress on things and go a bit overboard on admonishing issues of safety and personal responsibility... but let me close this one by strongly urging everyone over 50... to get a fucking Colonoscopy!!! Period. JUST DO IT! The one I had back in August 2009... saved my fucking bacon from a very ugly, gnarly and premature death. Okay?... 'nuff said on this stuff.
Now.. getting back on track...I still have all the other ancillary jobs to do as listed further back to finish on the motor B4 we elevate the car and get'er'dunnn!
Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 01-07-2010, 04:44 AM.Comment
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