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  • #46
    not alot of people like wagons, to me that makes them extra rare.

    My Cardomain Page | My Random Online Gallery<- (Now Fixed)

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    • #47
      So how do I get the inspection cover off? I removed three bolts but it still seems to be stuck, and no amount of wiggling, prying or swearing is getting it out of its cubby. I don't have a flashlight so I can't see if there's another one, but if there were, I wouldn't be able to get to it anyway, what with an oil pan in the way and all.
      Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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      • #48
        the starter usually goes through it. Not sure on the auto trans but the HM282's cover has 4 bolts that hold it on.
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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        • #49
          I went and got a second opinion from an independant transmission guy. At first, just to make a liar out of me, it wouldn't make the noise. His diagnosis was the same as has been said here—flywheel or TC bolts. Then when I restarted it to leave, it did it, and he goes, "Yep, definitely the flywheel." So I went and got one.



          This thing isn't all that heavy, really.


          Probably because it's not a cast piece, like I imagine the stock one is. I don't know though, having never seen a flywheel before.
          Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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          • #50
            When you want nothing but "Precision in Your Problem Solving"...Turn to Superdave for that advice.


            Vent... it is a small distinction on the nomenclature...but in your situation... that item is called a Flexplate... that distinction being that only engines that are balanced internally via a center-weighted DIS style crankshaft can put it to good use. All externally balanced GM V-6 motors must have a balanced cast iron Fly Wheel to handle the crankshaft symmetry for smooth running operation. By the way...where did you buy it and for how much?

            When you pull the transmission to do this repair...note that there will only be one way to attach the Flexplate with its flat "Holy Washer" item... so it will help to lay the plate out on the cardboard as you have it shown in your photos and move things around to eye-ball their proper hole alignments. Once you get that alignment...either mark both the Flexplate and the "Holy Washer" with a prominent line from a Magic Marker...or...you could also just use some clear plastic tape to secure the items together before you have to lift it in place and (since you have such an admirable knack for Swearing that perfectly expresses your indignation...while "VENTing") avoid the aggravation of trying to get them both to behave and stay in place while you fiddle around with the FlexPlate Bolts. I would urge that you REPLACE ALL YOUR FLEXPLATE BOLTS... and after cleaning the new ones with Brake Solvent...put a dab of some ThreadLocker on the threads. Let Robertisaar know if you need a Torgue Pattern for your item to visualize the right way for the install.

            Finally...if you happen to see that either (or both problems) of your Freeze (Core) Plug(s)s weeping Rusty Water or your Tri-Bolt Cam Cover Plate is weeping Engine Oil... then is the time to replace these while doing it is easy. These two links will help you with those repairs and provide part numbers and images related to both fixes. We are all glad this turned out to be a problem that will not require a re-build to fix! Good Luck!





            Oh...and I dig that Oriental "Tiger" motif... How does the limerick go? Oh yes...

            There Once was a Lady from Niger
            Who went for a Ride on a Tiger
            They came back from The Ride
            With The Lady... Inside
            And a on the Face of the Tiger!
            Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 11-25-2009, 11:29 PM.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
              Are your torque converter bolts loose?

              Rod bearing noise get louder under load... this is a no load situation so I highly doubt its a bearing. It could be internals in the transmission though, but I'm sure if that were the case it wouldn't be shifting all that right...

              I also put my video's on Photobucket.. That way I don't have to listen to the ass holes of the world making comments on my car.

              I should post up my most recent vid, Just to see what happens...

              I have to agree 100% Cause I had this happen to me with my 94 Formula. I pulled into the local automatic car wash and as soon as I place it in park it sounded sorta like a knock and man was it loud! I about freaked out too! I was like "ah shit man! I know this thing isnt knockin!" But, I just had the tranny swapped by the local "whole in the wall, fix it for $2.95" shop so keeping that in mind I checked the torque converter to flywheel bolts and every single one of them were loose....can anyone say USE SOME DAMN LOCKTITE? tightened them up and the knock was gone music to my ears haha.

              It had the same symptoms as Vent's car, under a load the sound was nonexistent, but as soon as you placed it in park it sounded like inmates at alcatraz beatin' on their cell doors.

              So just check the bolts and make sure they are tight.
              sigpic
              94 Firebird 3.4 DD
              252000mi. All original

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              • #52
                I know everyone's been waiting with baited breath over the last week, so I won't keep you in suspense any longer. The odd thing about this is that the noise showcased in the videos I took has disappeared, making me a liar as soon as I get my dad in town to help me fix it.

                We got the inspection cover off. There was not a phantom fourth bolt, it was just wedged in there real good. We actually broke it, but not in an area that matters—that part that bolts to the starter and doesn't cover anything.

                Anyway, I turned the flywheel, checking it with a flashlight as I went, and could not see any sort of damage to it. All the torque converter bolts were snugged as well. My dad gave me some good-natured ribbing about it ("You flew me all the way here for nothing you good for nothin'..."). We dropped the car back down and I started it, and it made a new and different noise, a lot closer to a clicking/scratching sound than the death clacking from before. Naturally I was completely unprepared for this and did not have my camera handy. This sound persisted though, regardless of engine speed, then went away entirely, then returned somewhat. It was also inconstant, sometimes there, sometimes not, sometimes only under load, sometimes only at idle, sometimes while decel. My dad's ready to perform an exorcism on the car.

                I will have my camera in my hand tomorrow morning for the first startup in case it goes nuts, and will post another video if it does.
                Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

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                • #53
                  I don't want to scare you but the last time my car made a sound like that it was #4 rod bearing in my old 3400.. it would come and go but eventually turned into a hard knock.


                  I'd drop the pan and give all your rods a wiggle-check..
                  Past Builds;
                  1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                  1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                  Current Project;
                  1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Here we go again.
                    Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      3400 or 3500 swap that shit! Then say good bye to your 18sec 1/4 mile.
                      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                      Original L82 Longblock
                      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                      • #56
                        sounds like a pissed off chipmunk
                        sigpic
                        99 Grand Am GT
                        3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
                        Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
                        1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur
                        515 515 lift 112 lsa
                        15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come


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                        • #57
                          I'm curious to know whether any excessive wear on the crankshaft journal and/or Thrust Bearing surfaces that are very badly worn... might allow the crank to walk enough in the direction of the back of the motor to allow the Flexplate to make contact with some metal shrouding or the Bell Housing... or something... and only makes that noise under those conditions. Can you see any "New" wear on the outer edges of the Flexplate gear teeth that would indicate such a thing? If its happening...it would not take much movement for this problem to present itself if the proximity tolerances are tight in that area between the Flexplate and other metallic things nearby.

                          I just thought of another "Usual Suspect"... The Starter Gear...if the Starter Gear is NOT withdrawing by the pressure of the Return Spring after solenoid activation launches it into the Flexplate...THAT might very well be your culprit...and the ONLY time that this can happen is when a Starter is replaced WITHOUT the required SPACER installed!
                          Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 12-13-2009, 09:14 AM.

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                          • #58
                            I left a comment on your video. Have you changed the oil and cut open the filter to see if any metal was in the oil?
                            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                            Original L82 Longblock
                            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Check your alternator for debris. My auto-electric guy said my last alt was likely killed by a stone shattering the plastic internal fan. If you have the metal fan I could see it + a stone making a hell of a racket.
                              1995 Grand Am SE

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                              • #60
                                The metal older fan blades are on the outside... I know, one went through my hood... Just in case it is that, don't rev it with your face/body in the line of sight of the belt/alt fan... I did that earlier that day cause I heard a noise coming from the alt... It was the cracked blade........
                                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                                Original L82 Longblock
                                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                                Comment

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