Question : Bell Housing

[cjvolcom]

I just finished rebuilding my 3100. I put the engine back in the bay but it won't go all the way in to the bell housing its still out about a half inch, so almost none of the flywheel is showing but it won't go the rest of the way in. I belive everything is lined up but I have no way to see. Any ideas?

p.s. I really don't wont to have to take the motor back out.

Thanks in advance.

[pocket-rocket]

Maybe the engine and transmission aren't quite parallel to each other or there is something stuck between them that you aren't seeing.

5 speed or auto?

If it's an auto, I wonder if the torque converter isn't seated in all the way into the pump.

If it's a 5 speed (WARNING: stupid question ahead) did you use a pilot tool when the clutch went back on?

[cjvolcom]

I looked all around and nothing obvious is stuck, and it looks to be parallel I am able to get the bell housing bolts in an tighten them part way with ease. Its an auto tranny, but I don't think ti would even go as far as I go it if the torque converter isn't seated in the pump.

[bszopi]

It's been quite a while since I swapped engines, but I semi-remember having a similar issue. I think I had to use the bolts to draw the 2 together. Wait for some other answers from people, but that might be something to try. Since the engine has a trans aligning pin on at least 1 of the bolts, it may be that that isn't aligning properly with the trans and causing it to not seat properly.

[1988GTU]

Make sure you have the dowels in the right spot and fully seated. Also, make sure the torque converter is pushed back all the way. I think 3 clicks is what it should be.

[Barry]

Is it the same motor going back in? What happens somtimes is the dowel pin will come out fo the block and stay in the tranny. Then you go to bolt a new motor in that already has a dowel pin in the block.

Just a thought

[cjvolcom]

Its the same block so all the dowels should be right. I might be able to just tighten up the bolts and pull it shut but it does not seem right, and I don't want to damage anything.

make sure the torque converter is pushed back all the way. I think 3 clicks is what it should be.

I'm not sure what you mean here. Could you explain?

[1988GTU]

With the trans exposed. Grab the TC and push it into the trans. It should bottom out on the last hump.
You could pull the TC completely out and then feel for the positioning/seating as you push it in.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Some mechanics like to identify the metric bolts thread/width, etc. for the Bell Housing/Transmission interface and then buy a set of 8.8 bolts around 80-90mm long. Then after just cutting off the bolt head ends and sort of grinding the bolt shank ends down to an ogive (bullet-like) shape, slightly unbolt the lower transmission support member mounting bolts and then screw these babies into several of the rear engine locations (FINGER-TIGHT) to act as a guide and make it easier to move things around...with just a bit more room to move back and forth (the "OLD IN+OUT" LOL) so things can be better aligned and bolted up. I would urge you NOT to use the stock bolts to pull the engine closer and closer to the Bell Housing unless you have an extra one to bolt on when you crack the one you have waiting in the car. BSZOPI's warning on this is very well-founded. Take HEED! If you employ this tactic and it works ...don't forget to remove these "Aligners" and replace them with your stock bolts and re-torque everything/ Then remember to re-tighten the transmission support bracket hardware once the marriage of the engine and tranny is complete.

[geoffinbc]

I did just that on my Trooper. The Trooper has an integral transfer case behind the transmission and they do not separate. So it is one heavy and big chuck of machinery. It is a fight as soon as you get the trans off the ground. But with the alignment studs it sure made life easier.

[60dgrzbelow0]

I did just that on my Trooper. The Trooper has an integral transfer case behind the transmission and they do not separate. So it is one heavy and big chuck of machinery. It is a fight as soon as you get the trans off the ground. But with the alignment studs it sure made life easier.

"So Shines a Good Deed... Upon a Weary World..."

[60dgrzbelow0]

Metric engine-transmission alignment pins

The attached image of the converted bolts to pins also has the Metric Specs you need...

(Credit to Tom Currao's excellent book "How to Re-Build your GM V-6 60* Engine")