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2003 Pontiac Grand Prix pushrod remove help

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  • 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix pushrod remove help

    I'm little lost about how to removed pushrod out?

    I went to junk yard and I found other same car as mine. Someone already remove lower intake manifold and took it with them. I just like wow perfect. I should practice how can I remove that when I will do that on my car later. I try to remove push rod myself but nothing work. How world can you remove the pushrod out? I need to remove that for put new metal gasket to replace plastic gasket out. I know it is mostly problem for 3100 engine. Do I need special tool or what?

    I found this helpful step by step link but it doesn't say how to remove pushrod.


    My plan is get that metal gasket with many other gasket what my engine need.


    Maybe get a new lower intake manifold?


    Day 1: On May 25th, I removed upper intake manifold, valve covers and some ramdom stuffs.

    busy busy busy at work....

    Day 2: I currently working on my engine last Saturday. So far I have removed steering wheel pump, fuel line (it was painful to get out but still can't remove behind where it is connect from fuel line. It was big metal nut. That's one I can't get it out. I pull apart hard as I can but it won't go out). I removed 6 bolts from lower intake manifold. I need buy small tool to get 2 bolts out. It was "buried" under lower intake manifold.

    There is my engine look right now.


    I'm on 1 week vacation next week. I should have it done next week if I knew how to remove the pushrod. If not then I will tow my car to dealership to remove pushrod and re-install everything for $562.00. Sound good deal?

    *edit* not sure if wot tech have warehouse or not. If not then I probably go http://www.milzymotorsports.com/ warehouse to grab some goodies. Good product? It is 40 miles from me. Just want finish the engine next week.
    Last edited by palsut; 07-22-2009, 10:44 AM.

  • #2
    You need to loosen or pull the rockers to get the pushrods out.
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
    sigpic
    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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    • #3
      Funny thing that I was thinking same thing but I can't remove that bolt where valve rocker arm is. I have big arm that I should pull hard but surprise it is not moving. I guess I need power tool? I don't have one. Maybe my car should be easy remove than junk car. I will see what can I do about that when I get lower intake manifold out first. Just need small tool to get 2 bolts out then hopefully ready to start remove pushrod. I was little nervous about pushrod. I hope I don't ruin it.

      Thanks for your response. Any more tip(s) would be great. Nice site for 3100 engines. Not bad.

      Comment


      • #4
        The rocker arm bolts should only be torqued to ~25ft lbs (14ft lbs +30*, so that's a guess), so it shouldn't be that hard to get out. Might just need a longer breaker bar to break it loose, especially if the engine has been exposed to the elements for awhile.
        -Brad-
        89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
        sigpic
        Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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        • #5
          This morning, I finally removed 2 bolts that "buried" under lower intake manifold. I also remove coolant hose on driver side where it is connect to lower intake manifold. I just like wow that's it. Time to remove lower intake manifold out. .... FAIL... nothing work. What heck?! All the step by step and nothing work? What a waste.

          Pass side engine

          Driver side engine


          Fuel line connect that I cannot remove out but I doubt that it doesn't make lower intake manifold stuck.


          After reading carefully for step by step link again.

          Note that the plenum gaskets have four plastic studs that center them. These studs have #1 Phillips heads and can be gently turned out and removed.

          Where they are? I guess that's why it probably stuck because of plastic studs.

          I need to remove them so I can go to Wot-Tech's place to get new lower intake manifold on Monday.

          Comment


          • #6
            How many bolts did you remove? There are 8 that need to be removed to remove the lower manifold. And you will probably have to pry it up some, as they tend to stick. You can leave the fuel rail and lines connected and just flip the intake over and lay it down somewhere else in the engine. My guess is you just need to pull up a little harder, or stick something inside the head and under the manifold to gently pry it up.
            -Brad-
            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
            sigpic
            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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            • #7
              I did remove 8 bolts out after I checked them for double check. Around 36K mileage ago that I have a "blown" gasket that dealership fixed mine. That was 3 years ago. While I'm doing upper intake manifold and valve cover for polish parts. I decide to remove lower intake manifold to replace metal gasket so they won't leaking again. I guess I will try pry it out tomorrow because I have to go work soon. It was seal where "leaking" coming from. I will try get seal off so I can get them loose. Yeah, that's what my plan is to leave fuel line there as long it is not going hurt everything.
              Last edited by palsut; 07-23-2009, 11:51 AM.

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              • #8
                A short piece of 2X4 and a hammer can also help in breaking "stubborn" things loose. A plastic hammer might also help.. The LIM in my DOHC was REALLY stuck on there!! Soon I'm gonna find out how my 3100 is..
                Good luck,
                Tom...
                Last edited by walterdude; 07-23-2009, 09:12 PM.

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                • #9
                  Nothing work out as I took your advice. Dealership might be put VERY VERY VERY super glue on it or something. I guess I'm out of option. I have no choice. I will tow her to dealership to remove LIM & put metal gasket only next week. They are 3/4 miles from me. Then I will re-install everything myself to save some money than pay too much labor which they charge too silly.

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                  • #10
                    Seriously?? It sounds like whenever it was done last time, they used WAAAAAY too much RTV between the LIM and block. Stick a 2x4 inside the head near the serp belt and hammer it down to pry up that side of the LIM. I guarantee its just the RTV holding it in place right now, and if an excess amount is used, its gonna take some force to separate it from the block.
                    -Brad-
                    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                    sigpic
                    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                    • #11
                      Also, looking at your pics, make sure you unplug the cam position sensor (behind the PS pump) before you try to move the LIM (once you unseat it). I'd hate to see you yank the wires too hard and break something.
                      -Brad-
                      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                      sigpic
                      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                      • #12
                        Hell ya! Pry that puppy off.

                        A dealer will probably charge you what a new one would cost anyway in the event you crack it!

                        Use a propane torch to try and soften up the RTV a little.

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                        • #13
                          Alright I removed cam position sensor then put paper towel on it so the dirt won't go to the hole.

                          After remove that cam position sensor. I couldn't believe what I see this. The seal was INSIDE of sensor. Wow crazy!


                          Wow, that's too much.
                          No wonder it is stuck badly.


                          Oh I finally remove fuel line. I have to use "super hulk" mode to remove fuel line lol


                          Pass side. It was painful to get the tool slide under it because steering wheel pump holder was block that way. It was impossible. See example of my tool keep hit steering wheel pump holder.


                          Driver side lower intake manifold. It was tough one too. The coolant pump was block that way. I have no idea how to find other way?


                          I wish I have torch but I live in apt. So I don't have power tool.

                          Will I damage it if I use crow bar? I hate to see end result. I'm only 2 final step to go. That's stink that I didn't get job done yet.

                          Step 1: remove lower intake manifold
                          Step 2 :remove pushrod.

                          That's only 2 steps I need to get done. I hope this pictures should help you to see what I did "wrong" or whatever I miss. Remember it is my 1st engine job. I'm learning as much. You have been a great help.

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                          • #14
                            Ok, here is a thought.... In that last picture, slide your crowbar (if it'll fit) under the thermostat area and on top of the oil pump drive gear. That should give you the leverage you need to be able to pry it up.

                            And yes, that does look like overkill on the sealant!!
                            -Brad-
                            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                            sigpic
                            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                            • #15
                              Well nothing work. They seal them pretty good. That's suck. I guess I have to let dealership do that job. That's stupid. It was supposed to be my 1 week vacation (I never got any vacation day off this year) this week to work on the engine project. I will just let dealership remove LIM and install metal gasket for me. Then maybe let them install new LIM from wot tech so I won't deal with LIM anymore since metal gasket will last longer than plastic gasket. I will install everything like valve covers, upper intake manifold, fuel line and random wire craps.

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