Coolant leaking from rear of my 1992 s10

[SteveInMs]

It has the 2.8. Coolant pouring out from inbetween bellhousing and flywheel cover. I'm assuming there's at least one freeze plug back there, can't find any pics on the web of the back a 2.8 60/V6.

Does anyone have a 2.8 on the stand or something? I'd appreciate it if anyone knows if and how many freeze plugs are back there.


If it's a freeze plug leaking from the back, I'm done with this one.

[TiredGXP]

There are three freeze plugs in the bellhousing area.

[geoffinbc]

Yup there back there but they are easy to replace if you remove the trans. They are not stuck in the block with a mega grip like the side ones.

[SteveInMs]

Thanks. I think I'll pull the motor and put it in my 87 S10 Blazer.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Some Images and Information on the 2.8L Core Plugs

It has the 2.8. Coolant pouring out from in between bell housing and flywheel cover. I'm assuming there's at least one freeze plug back there, can't find any pics on the web of the back a 2.8 60/V6. Does anyone have a 2.8 on the stand or something? I'd appreciate it if anyone knows if and how many freeze plugs are back there. If it's a freeze plug leaking from the back, I'm done with this one.

Steve...

Here is a composite color image of the Dorman 34.3mm Brass Core Plugs and one of the "How-To" text and B&W images are from Tom Currao's book you have been seeking:

"How to Rebuild Your GM V-6 60* Engine" (ISBN 0-97938-841-2) Published by Motorbooks International "POWERPRO SERIES".

If you are intent on pulling the engine in lieu of the transmission and doing the work under the vehicle, you will need to pull the old, leaking core plugs and do the hole cleaning up to prep for the insertion of the new plugs while the engine is still suspended on the engine hoist. This is because the support arms of the engine stand will be too much in the way to access the three, old core plugs located in the back of the engine block for removal. The attached images should be added to the other useful data already posted here and come highly recommended for helping with your repair.

Good Luck.

--==Bob==-

[SteveInMs]

Hey Bob

I appreciate the post and pics, thanks! Sadly, this truck has been my daily driver for years. I've got 268K on her, but this will probably be the end of the road for the old girl.

[60dgrzbelow0]

...Yes...and what a "Good Ol' Girl" she must have been to you, too.

[Firehawk94]

Hey steve I had the same exact issue with my 3.4L in my Firebird......





Sorry for the small pictures these are from my cardomain page

Anywho, I hope this helps you, the freeze plug in the upper left hand corner of the block is the one that was leaking it wasnt pouring, but "peeing" rather lol It wasnt hard to change the plug itself it was just a pita to drop the tranny and such.

[Firehawk94]

Hey Bob

I appreciate the post and pics, thanks! Sadly, this truck has been my daily driver for years. I've got 268K on her, but this will probably be the end of the road for the old girl.

Ive got a camaro with 277000 mi on it and my firebird (pictured) has 245000 mi. on it and both of them run excellant...these are STRONG engines IF they arent abused so I wouldnt get too down hearted on the mileage of your 660 a 3.00 freeze plug and a half a days worth of work is well worth it.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Some mechanics like to take advantage of the chance to change the triangular rear camshaft cork gasket covering the camshaft opening at the back of the block while the transmission is out as well. These are notorious for leaking oil at a "weep" ( you can see evidence of this in Firehawk94's photos above) as the engine gaskets throughout the block age out over time. The one thing to remember is that there are three (3) small, steel rings inside the three mounting holes of the new, soft cork gasket. They are present to prevent the cork from being crushed or flattened too much and defeating their oil sealing ability.

The other weird thing is that the triangular steel plate and cork gasket are completely asymmetrical in design! There is only ONE way to get the holes to line up correctly between both items and then properly oriented to the holes around the rear of the camshaft in the engine block. So if you decide to do this repair...before removing the steel cover plate over the camshaft, mark the outer area at the top of this steel tri-plate with either a light scratch at the top bolt location or clean the outer side of the plate with spray brake cleaner and then mark that upper bolt position with an indelible Magic Marker. This will go a long way toward making the plate re-installation much easier.

When it comes time to install these things, I would recommend using some light Scotch Tape to hold the aligned cork gasket onto the inner matching holes of the steel plate. Then, when you coat the threads of the three small bolts with Threadlocker...slip the bolts into the holes... one at a time ...and very, very carefully...or you will end up knocking out some... or all of these tiny metal rings if you get too hasty. Then you'll play Hell trying to find them from where they fell somewhere under the car or truck. If this happens...grab a telescoping neodymium magnet and wave it like a wand around the area under the vehicle and these rings can easily be recovered.

If you make folded tabs in the ends of the Scotch Tape where it sticks to the back of the plate, then it will be easier to peel the tape loose from the outer plate after all three bolts get slightly threaded in...and then just gently slip the tape ends out from between the cork gasket and the face of the back of the engine block, leaving no residue. Don't be tempted to torque the Hell out of those little bolts! With a small torque wrench and with the aid of the Threadlocker coating to secure them inside the block, the cork gasket will work much better and last longer this way. (The Attached Photos Give a Good Illustration of this Fix...)

[SteveInMs]

Good information Bob. Thanks, when things cool down around here I'll get started on the work. I have a 98 Malibu with a spun bearing, and before that my old 71 F100 with a bent valve.

Thanks for the pics Firehawk, I think the upper right one on mine is "peeing"

[Firehawk94]

No problem, just glad we all could help. Great write up 60dgrzbelow0! And if your wondering I actually did change that gasket because I saw that it was weeping as well. The key is to keep the oil in the motor........

[60dgrzbelow0]

Gentlemen... It's good to know these ideas work...and I'm always glad to help!

"So Shines a Good Deed... Upon Weary World..."