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For the latest tear-down and re-build images on this 1993 Ford Escort EFI Re-Build Sub-Project, visit this link:
In order to describe a necessary solution that I used at this phase of re-conditioning the set of Ford EFIs, I need to set "The Way-Back Machine" to last year when I was in the "Domain of The Lil Woman" better known as the kitchen where I decided to install the Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube on a Melling Oil Pump...and the ball-peen hammer I was holding slipped out of my hand and dropped on top of the ceramic front of the stove. Needless to say, I managed to fracture out an indecently large chunk of the tope (tan) or almond (or whatever the f*cking colour it was supposed to be) edging which left me standing there, scratching my noggin' as to how I would extricate myself form the mad scene sure to play out when she glommed a look at the awful damage. Off I went to the local Home Depot and managed to get a small bottle of something cool called "Sheffield Porcelain Touch-Up". With no small amount of glee, I dashed back to the house and slowly and methodically applied this stuff in a manner that filled in the gouge well enough to look almost perfect. To this day, she has never figured out how badly I marred her then new oven fascia and unless my fingernails are being torn out, I am not ever likely to confess to being the "perp" in this crime.
Back to the Ford EFI Project...
Today, I went about the task of using a cheap, break-off razor blade knife to slice through the old, brittle plastic pintle caps, "O" Rings and plastic separators and slid them off the nose of each of the four EFIs. You will see from the photos I took that indeed, shows there is a very delicate metal pin sticking out of the nozzle that is sharp enough to puncture your hands if you squeeze the EFI hard while working with its disassembly and reassembling. From there, I carefully laid these four EFIs down inside the "Fried Chicken Basket" of my Eumax Ultrasonic Cleaner, covered them well enough with some fresh and undiluted "Purple Power", set the heating temperature for 55 degrees centigrade and the timer for a 30 minute cleaning session. I noted that prior to putting the dirty, filthy things in there that some of the grey factory paint had flaked off of the body and what looked like rust had migrated under the paint over time. Unlike the charcoal-grey, anodised bodies of the GM Multec EFIs, I discovered after removed the basket with these steaming hot injectors that they started to rust rapidly on contact with air. I made a mad dash to the garage, grabbed my trusty can of Kroil Rust Killer and sprayed the body of each injector well enough to minimise the metal oxidation and get things under control. After stopping the bleeding, so to speak, I had to come up with a plan for re-cleaning and sealing the steel body of each injector. I first used some heavy steel-wool and then some Brillo pad to scrub and de-rust those barrels while avoiding breaking off the pintles inside the noses of the things. I then remembered using that "Sheffield" stuff and thought I might be able to simply clean the metal bodies with some spray solvent and then immediately apply a decent coat of the tan porcelain paint to the outside of each EFI and solve the problem with something that was not only a chip-proof, porcelain finish (shiny and hard) but also heat proof to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. You can see from the images that it worked out well, even though I had to stand the EFIs on their heads and let the stuff harden and air dry for over three hours before I could continue the work.
When that process played itself out, I set about trying to use "The Old Set-Screw in a Vise" method to pull the old EFI filter baskets out of the noses of each one, No soap. I could NOT get them to budge no matter how much I turned and twisted and tugged on them using my very considerable strength. STILL ...No Go. Then I resorted to using my tried and true Red "RPG" looking, hardened tipped slide hammer puller... and they came out like butter! I was surprised to see that the filter basket design inside came out looking like "Merlin's Hat" from Walt Disney's Classic cartoon, "The Sorcerer's Apprentice"...sort of like they took a single piece of SS screen, folded it in half and then spot weld it along both sides from the top down, narrowing it into a cone. These looked primitive by the GM standards and their smaller dimensions forced me to switch from using the longer, slender black plastic/SS screen GM replacements for the four Red Nippon-Denso ones which were a bit shorter, but offered a wider barrel dimension closer to the top and uniform in its shape with a larger area of screen in view. First I cleaned out the top of the insert area of each injector with cotton swabs and then used a S/S micrometer depth gauge, discovering that the internal components began at around a depth of 11.36 mm inside each EFI. Without knowing whether the pintles actuate upward to open and downwards to open and close, I was reluctant to put in filter baskets that perhaps were too long inside and be risk being impacted by the moving internal parts of the working pintles in action. Fortunately, the new Nippon-Denso Brass Insert Ferrules hammered in nicely after I swabbed the inside upper chamber first to remove any traces of dirt or small brass ferrule tailings and they looked perfect when I finished installing each new filter basket.
Next, I followed the "orders of operation" during assembly by first placing the new, yellow plastic separator ring over the nozzles, followed by the new, brown Viton "O" Rings. Finally, I rifled through my SAE and Metric socket sets for just the right size socket to place the heated plastic pintle caps inside of and it turns out that a 9MM 3/8" drive socket was a perfect fit! (See side by side pics) Next... I borrowed the wife's "Hair Fryer...uh err I meant "Hair Dryer" and with the socket sitting flush on the counter, I doused the pintle cap as it was laying inside the 9 mill socket for just a few seconds to soften the plastic enough to just pop the injector on and Voila! DUNN. I repeated this action for all four injectors and topped off each of the filtration in-ports with the remaining Viton "O"Rings to complete the job. I don't know... I think they look pretty damned good... and so tomorrow... I'll bring "Frank" outside, fire him up and we'll put these four (4) Ford EFI Puppies through their paces with several Pressure Cleanings and Flow Balance Test to see if they "Work as Good as they Look" As ever, I will videotape these actions so you will be seeing what I see as they get the Royal, Loyal Treatment on... "The FrankInjector Machine"
For the latest tear-down and re-build images on this 1993 Ford Escort EFI Re-Build Sub-Project, visit this link:
In order to describe a necessary solution that I used at this phase of re-conditioning the set of Ford EFIs, I need to set "The Way-Back Machine" to last year when I was in the "Domain of The Lil Woman" better known as the kitchen where I decided to install the Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube on a Melling Oil Pump...and the ball-peen hammer I was holding slipped out of my hand and dropped on top of the ceramic front of the stove. Needless to say, I managed to fracture out an indecently large chunk of the tope (tan) or almond (or whatever the f*cking colour it was supposed to be) edging which left me standing there, scratching my noggin' as to how I would extricate myself form the mad scene sure to play out when she glommed a look at the awful damage. Off I went to the local Home Depot and managed to get a small bottle of something cool called "Sheffield Porcelain Touch-Up". With no small amount of glee, I dashed back to the house and slowly and methodically applied this stuff in a manner that filled in the gouge well enough to look almost perfect. To this day, she has never figured out how badly I marred her then new oven fascia and unless my fingernails are being torn out, I am not ever likely to confess to being the "perp" in this crime.
Back to the Ford EFI Project...
Today, I went about the task of using a cheap, break-off razor blade knife to slice through the old, brittle plastic pintle caps, "O" Rings and plastic separators and slid them off the nose of each of the four EFIs. You will see from the photos I took that indeed, shows there is a very delicate metal pin sticking out of the nozzle that is sharp enough to puncture your hands if you squeeze the EFI hard while working with its disassembly and reassembling. From there, I carefully laid these four EFIs down inside the "Fried Chicken Basket" of my Eumax Ultrasonic Cleaner, covered them well enough with some fresh and undiluted "Purple Power", set the heating temperature for 55 degrees centigrade and the timer for a 30 minute cleaning session. I noted that prior to putting the dirty, filthy things in there that some of the grey factory paint had flaked off of the body and what looked like rust had migrated under the paint over time. Unlike the charcoal-grey, anodised bodies of the GM Multec EFIs, I discovered after removed the basket with these steaming hot injectors that they started to rust rapidly on contact with air. I made a mad dash to the garage, grabbed my trusty can of Kroil Rust Killer and sprayed the body of each injector well enough to minimise the metal oxidation and get things under control. After stopping the bleeding, so to speak, I had to come up with a plan for re-cleaning and sealing the steel body of each injector. I first used some heavy steel-wool and then some Brillo pad to scrub and de-rust those barrels while avoiding breaking off the pintles inside the noses of the things. I then remembered using that "Sheffield" stuff and thought I might be able to simply clean the metal bodies with some spray solvent and then immediately apply a decent coat of the tan porcelain paint to the outside of each EFI and solve the problem with something that was not only a chip-proof, porcelain finish (shiny and hard) but also heat proof to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. You can see from the images that it worked out well, even though I had to stand the EFIs on their heads and let the stuff harden and air dry for over three hours before I could continue the work.
When that process played itself out, I set about trying to use "The Old Set-Screw in a Vise" method to pull the old EFI filter baskets out of the noses of each one, No soap. I could NOT get them to budge no matter how much I turned and twisted and tugged on them using my very considerable strength. STILL ...No Go. Then I resorted to using my tried and true Red "RPG" looking, hardened tipped slide hammer puller... and they came out like butter! I was surprised to see that the filter basket design inside came out looking like "Merlin's Hat" from Walt Disney's Classic cartoon, "The Sorcerer's Apprentice"...sort of like they took a single piece of SS screen, folded it in half and then spot weld it along both sides from the top down, narrowing it into a cone. These looked primitive by the GM standards and their smaller dimensions forced me to switch from using the longer, slender black plastic/SS screen GM replacements for the four Red Nippon-Denso ones which were a bit shorter, but offered a wider barrel dimension closer to the top and uniform in its shape with a larger area of screen in view. First I cleaned out the top of the insert area of each injector with cotton swabs and then used a S/S micrometer depth gauge, discovering that the internal components began at around a depth of 11.36 mm inside each EFI. Without knowing whether the pintles actuate upward to open and downwards to open and close, I was reluctant to put in filter baskets that perhaps were too long inside and be risk being impacted by the moving internal parts of the working pintles in action. Fortunately, the new Nippon-Denso Brass Insert Ferrules hammered in nicely after I swabbed the inside upper chamber first to remove any traces of dirt or small brass ferrule tailings and they looked perfect when I finished installing each new filter basket.
Next, I followed the "orders of operation" during assembly by first placing the new, yellow plastic separator ring over the nozzles, followed by the new, brown Viton "O" Rings. Finally, I rifled through my SAE and Metric socket sets for just the right size socket to place the heated plastic pintle caps inside of and it turns out that a 9MM 3/8" drive socket was a perfect fit! (See side by side pics) Next... I borrowed the wife's "Hair Fryer...uh err I meant "Hair Dryer" and with the socket sitting flush on the counter, I doused the pintle cap as it was laying inside the 9 mill socket for just a few seconds to soften the plastic enough to just pop the injector on and Voila! DUNN. I repeated this action for all four injectors and topped off each of the filtration in-ports with the remaining Viton "O"Rings to complete the job. I don't know... I think they look pretty damned good... and so tomorrow... I'll bring "Frank" outside, fire him up and we'll put these four (4) Ford EFI Puppies through their paces with several Pressure Cleanings and Flow Balance Test to see if they "Work as Good as they Look" As ever, I will videotape these actions so you will be seeing what I see as they get the Royal, Loyal Treatment on... "The FrankInjector Machine"
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