oil pressure wont work!

[3400-95-Modified]

Noises, smoke, idle funny... All the above.

[Firehawk94]

Noises, smoke, idle funny... All the above.

And a lack of mosquitos.....well, any insects for that matter within a 5 mi radius

[60dgrzbelow0]

Uh oh... ... I just remembered something.The Heavy Rust inside your crankcase...I started wondering whether you might also consider replacing the oil pump down there before you commit to a full-bore engine start. The replacement of the OEM GM oil pump and screen are not too much more money to pay for this added peace of mind. And since you don't know how much of that Thick Rust that was down there in direct contact with the weather... you can't really know if any of that rusty crap migrated up inside the pickup tube and on into the pump gears before you re-kindled your project to revive the motor. I mean...the central theme that started this thread was "...I can't get proper oil pressure..." So...What do you think of this idea?

Just a suggestion, but... have a look at the attached images on a method I came up with that will speed up and simplify how to align and install a new pump screen, without the hassle involved with having to crawl back under the car and take pan depth measurements to guarantee the proper pump screen depth. This instructional video by George Richmond (The Melling Company) gives more information on the proper way it should be done:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3eEog

[60dgrzbelow0]

i'll for sure make a vid of this thing starting up i bet its gonna make all kindsa noises at first! as for posting it i never posted a vid before online hopefully its as easy as posting pics lol

Just go to www.photobucket.com and do this:

(1) Create an anonymous account (using your forum nickname comes in handy)
(2) Set up a few photo/video albums (and add whatever you have taken, so far)
(3) After uploading your photos/videos to www.photobucket.com, visit your own site, right click on the URL, copy it and then paste the link in the body of your messages in here when you want to share these things with your avid fans in this forum!

... It is just that EZ!

[sr20hardbody]

k thanks for that its just as easy as adding a pic!

well the good thing is the oil pump is fine. when i first took the oil pan off i removed the oil pump took it apart inspected it and everything was perfect and i never put it back on i just left it on the work bench and it never rusted out or anything! which is why i figured the bottom end was good untill the beginning of summer when i finally got under there and seen the rust.

so i cleaned all the pieces of the oil pump and screen carefully put it back together and bolted it on and its pushing oil lots of oil! lol the drill turned on low had oil shooting everywhere untill i sealed it up as good as i could with the rag which i believe the oil made its way up into the heads.

now im just waiting on the starter to show up and im gonna get the proper bracket that holds the oil pump drive gear down cuz now im thinking the piece i made might hold it down but wont keep it from spinning! im like 99% sure thats why i gained no pressure on the second start the pump drive gear was sitting there spinning in the hole. i checked the cam gear that drives it along with all the other gears with the oil pump section and everythings fine funny how a little bracket can cause so much trouble.

ohh and was wondering i have both tranny and side mount solid filled with window weld but its the only 2 mounts i have on right now cuz the subframes dropped. would it be ok to start the engine and let it do whatever its gonna do before bolting on the subframes? or do i need the subframe "torque mount" inorder to start it? cuz i need to replace all bushings in the subframes but dont really wanna dump all this money into yet if the engine doesnt pull through nah mean? ohh and the cars on jack stands im just worried if the engines gonna buck like crazy and rip a mount and hit the ground and knock it off the stands and end the whole thing.

[60dgrzbelow0]

...ohh and was wondering i have both tranny and side mount solid filled with window weld but its the only 2 mounts i have on right now because the sub-frames dropped. would it be ok to start the engine and let it do whatever its gonna do before bolting on the sub-frames? or do I need the sub-frame "torque mount" in order to start it? Because I need to replace all bushings in the sub-frames but don't really wanna dump all this money into yet if the engine doesn't pull through. know what I mean? Oh, and the car is on jack stands, so I'm just worried if the engines gonna buck like crazy and rip a mount and hit the ground and knock it off the stands and end the whole thing.

If it were anybody else besides you (and I think that like me, the other forum members following this thread are wishing you well and triumphant in the end) then I would say that it MIGHT be possible to start the engine at a rough idle for just long enough to let it sputter and pop it ways through a decent warm up. But since you have not had the best of luck or turns of fortune with this matter so far...I would say ...NO!

This is your Nightmare "IF..." Scenario...

If you somehow manage to vacate the last remains of the previous 19 quart oil bath...and If you then gap and install fresh plugs and wires and If you dose your gas tank with some fresh gas and a good treatment of Chevron Techron...and If you remember to fill the crankcase with high quality motor oil and snug the drain plug and install a pre-filled quality oil filter, and If you have a sane spotter there to actually be helpful and if after you install a brand new battery and new starter....and after all that...If you then sit in the driver's seat and start the engine..... your whole world would turn to SH*T as soon as you press down hard on the gas pedal and the unrestrained engine block tries to moves rapidly in a direction opposite the rotational direction of your crankshaft and then dismounts and rolls around inside of your engine bay like a drunken sailor...And all because: If only the motor had been properly mounted and kept from doing this...all would be well. And the last IF is a question: IF it's not too much to ask...Why not just bolt down everything properly and mount your motor with the fervent prayer that when all is said and done....it WILL start...and idle..and warm up...and kill every species of insect within a five mile radius (as suggested by 3500...) and finally ....work????

[sr20hardbody]

if anyones wondering why im taking so long to respond is cuz i took 60dgrzbelow0 advice and started ordering parts for the subframe restore so i dont spin the engine in the compartment

ohh and am i supposed to leave the serpentine belt off while im turning the engine over with the starter to gain pressure? or should i hook it back up to turn all the accesories

[60dgrzbelow0]

Thanks for the update...the silence has been deafening for us while waiting to see how things go for you. And by all means...Do install a brand new serpentine belt... since you DO want everything else to be properly fed a smooth 12 volts from a battery that is getting a constant 14-15 volt support from the alternator, once the engine fires up. (The ECM will appreciate this, especially). Don't forget to post the open, public link to your Photo Bucket site in your next few messages with fresh images ... so we can all see first hand what you have been up to.

PS... Uh......About the New Serpentine Belt Install issue.... This assumes that the accessories mounted on the front of the engine are NOT in the same condition as the "Rusted and Busted...Barnacle Encrusted Crank Throws" in the Bottom End... LOL

[torq455]

yes, leave the belt on while turning the engine over with the starter.