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3400 Cam Removal

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  • Question : 3400 Cam Removal

    Please .....some stupid proof guidlines to remove my 3400 cam...step by step if possible....dont want to break anything or do too much.........pictures would also help...a lot !!!!

    Thanks guys

  • #2
    ive got no step by step pics..but from what remember when i did my cam swap on my 3400 grand am..i had to pull the belt off for starters...take the engine bracket on the belt side off and support the engine with a jack or somthing...take the p/s pump off..take the idler pulley off thats below the p/s pump ...take off the lower rad. hose...take off the crank pulley...youll need a pulley puller for that one...help to have air tools as well..then take off all the bolts that you see holding the timing cover on...theres 3 that had the heads cut down...this is so they dont gring on the belt or pulleys when the motor is running, be careful not to strip them...theyre hard to get ahold of inless you go to the junkyard to get some..when you get all the bolts out..youl havta manuver it off the top of the oil pan..if i remember right it kinda sits down on it...next, i had to undo all the cradle bolts and support that...i lowered the pass side quite a bit..and the driver side a little..just so i can get the engine on a tilt to where i can pull the cam...before you pull the cam youll havta take the timing gear off..and like i said before it help ALOT to have an impact gun otherwise good luck holding it and loosening it..its torqued to like 70ft lbs. after you get the gear off..youll need to take the cam retainer plate off ...this is held on by 2 torx bits...after that...i threaded the bolt in some by hand so i can pull them cam..be careful to pull it out straight...and go slow so you dont gall up the cam bearings or youll be replacing them too..im sure there might be a little somthing i missed..but thats all i can think of off the top of my head..and sorry for the long writeup with no pics!...g/l
    Last edited by BoostED00GagT; 10-13-2008, 07:53 PM.
    00 turbo'd gagt msd 8.5 mm wires,ngk tr-6 plugs,42.5lb inj,65mm tce t.b,ported upper intake,ported lower,ported heads,copper headgaskets,headstuds,160 stat,ls6 valve springs,st3 turbo cam and pushrods,turbo manifolds,custom 'y' pipe,3in open d.p.,dhp powr tuner,garret t3 60-1 .63 turbine,70 compressor,6 pounds of boost...STOCK CAM,STOCK 103XXX BOTTOM END...2.041 60',13.683 @ 100.34

    99 gtp 4in. F.W.I...180 stat..headers...104's...msd8.5's..1.9's...3.4 pulley...cat & res./

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info.....the engine is on a stand so no problems there..........if there are any other "tricks" or oddities anyone can think of...let me know please....thanks

      Chris

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      • #4
        Like boost said, go slow. Since it is on a stand, support it as you pull it out to keep it parallel with the engine. When you put the new one in be generous with the assembly lube . Lube is cheap, new engine parts from not enough lubrication aren't.
        -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
        91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
        92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
        94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
        Originally posted by Jay Leno
        Tires are cheap clutches...

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