Cold start issues

[Spankdamonkey]

Hi everybody

I posted a topic about this a while ago on bstuff, but haven't had any luck.

Anyways, for the last 2 months or so, my Beretta ('95 3100) ALWAYS has trouble starting in the morning. Or anytime it has sat still for 3 or more hours for that matter. I would try to crank it and crank it, sometimes totaling 10-12 tries to get it to start. BUT once it is started, it runs like a champ. No other problems, just cold starts. I have worked out a system for getting it started with minimal wear and tear. It goes like this:

1. Prime pump 2 times. Crank for 4 seconds.

2. Wait 10 seconds

3. Crank again. (at this point it will TRY to start but will stutter and die)

4. Wait 10 more seconds

5. Crank and fire over (occassionally I wll have to repeat steps 3-4)

This seems to be the most efficient way to start it in the morning, but I know its fuel related. Seeing as I have no running problems, I was thinking pulsator. What does everybody else think? I would like to try and tackle this problem as cost-effectively as humanly possible

Thanks!

[Superdave]

try putting the gas pedal to the floor, that'll shut off the injectors while cranking. If that starts it then it could be a leaky injector(s).

check the rail pressure after it's been sitting for a while, that should tell you what's going on. I've seen bad fuel pumps cause this, also FPR's

[Spankdamonkey]

Thanks for the reply Dave

The pedal to the floor does not improve the situation, quite the opposite actually. As to the FPR, I've checked the diaphragm and it appears to be intact (no fuel coming out of the top or anything).

The only thing I'm not sure on is the fuel pressure. Do you happen to know if they sell an analog gauge that screws onto the schraeder valve? That would be awesome. My apartment complex is very bitchy about people working on their vehicles, so it needs to be a wam-bam thank you ma'am deal.

The interesting thing is that no matter how many times I prime the pump, it doesn't seem to make a considerable difference after the second prime. Surely if it was a pump or pulsator related problem it would reduce cranking time considerably the more I let it prime up right?

[Superdave]

Not sure what's all inside the pulsator, i do know that they got rid of them in the newer gen3's... i have one sitting in the drawer, maybe i'll dremel it open and see what it looks like.


I've seen people get analog pressure gauges and hook them up to the schrader with removing the inner core and using braided lines with an fittings.. that's a pretty permanent deal though. I'm sure there is a pressure tester that you can pick up at a parts store....

[3400-95-Modified]

Thanks for the reply Dave
My apartment complex is very bitchy about people working on their vehicles, so it needs to be a wam-bam thank you ma'am deal.

I think thats really stupid... you need a vehicle, and sometimes you need to fix it... As long as your not starting a restoration project in your parking spot they should STFU if you ask me, because they are technically forcing you to have to bring your car somewhere.

[IsaacHayes]

Yeah they sell gauges that you screw on the end of the rail and read the pressure. I used one from a mechanic friend to test my FPR for the vacuum and no-vacuum pressures.

[geldartb]

ther like 40 bucks and advanced or autozone will have them, and i think sears even carries them

[Spankdamonkey]

Thanks for the replies everyone! 3400-95-modified: Tell me about it......pisses me off even thinking about it. If you live in an apartment, it kinda means you can't (or don't want to) afford the expense of a house. So I'm being punished by not owning my own home lol. A neighbor of mine had his car towed because they caught him CHANGING HIS OIL

Ranting aside, the pressure gauge is good news, I'l probably try and pick one up tomorrow. If, god forbid, the pump is on it's way out......anybody know if there is a walkthrough for replacement hiding out somewhere on the site?

[pocket-rocket]

A neighbor of mine had his car towed because they caught him CHANGING HIS OIL

That is just downright stupid... The one place we lived at claimed they didn't want you working on stuff, but they at least left me alone when I changed my oil. It's too bad management vehicles don't break down so you could say "Meh, I could fix your car here for you, but I'm not allowed to work on anything here. Have a nice day :P"

[Spankdamonkey]

Hey again guys. Sorry about the EXTREMELY long reply time......computer decided to let in 2 viruses (supova worm and some kind of backdoor trojan)

Anyways I have definitively found that it is either the fuel pump or pulsator. The car has NO fuel pressure after it has sat for any length of time in excess of 5-6 hours (fuel rail is bone dry). It will take 3-5 primes to get fuel back into the rail and allow it to start (with the help of some starting fluid) So my question is what would allow every bit of that gas to drain back from the rail that quickly? Do I have a leaking fuel line or some kind of bad check valve?

[Superdave]

i'd blame the fuel pump first...

[Spankdamonkey]

Alright I'm in the process of ordering a fuel pump right now. Quick question though.....is there any difference between a '96 fuel pump as opposed to '94-'95? (Maube different connectors from the OBD-II change?)

Also, anyone know IF there is a walkthrough for pump replacement hiding out on the site???

Thanks!