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  • Question : Coolant Leaking... Help?

    So I noticed a puddle starting to form where I parked the other day, I check it out and I am leaking coolant. It's dripping down from the rear/pass side of the engine bay, and I can't see any lines that it's coming from. I have lost about a quart in the overflow tank over I guess a few days of good driving at least, not sure when it started.

    What else is back there? I described this to a friend and he said maybe a cracked block... now I am freaking out.
    SpudFiles
    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
    Theopia
    Enjoy life online.

    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

  • #2
    OK it looks like it MAY be coming out of this little rubber elbow off the firewall. I found it dripping down off the twisted stock tranny cooler lines, then right above it dripping off from the cruddy looking power steering line. I looked above the line and found nothing leaking, aside from this elbow which looked a bit wet on the bottom, I shoved my finger into it and found the same greasy liquid as I have found dripping, like coolant.

    I forgot what exactly this elbow does but in a way, I feel like it may have sprayed before, even before I got the car. As you can see in this pic, the power steering lines are very nasty and so is the sub frame right below them. I have never found a power steering leak (which is what I thought it all was from) but even though I wiped these lines off when putting the engine in, they became nasty/dirty/greasy again.

    FYI it has been very hot here lately, and this is my builds first full summer. The past few weeks I have seen the temp guage higher than I ever have (a normal amount, just never seen it since I finished last fall).
    Attached Files
    Last edited by PCGUY112887; 07-16-2008, 07:42 PM.
    SpudFiles
    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
    Theopia
    Enjoy life online.

    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
      OK it looks like it MAY be coming out of this little rubber elbow off the firewall. I found it dripping down off the twisted stock tranny cooler lines, then right above it dripping off from the cruddy looking power steering line. I looked above the line and found nothing leaking, aside from this elbow which looked a bit wet on the bottom, I shoved my finger into it and found the same greasy liquid as I have found dripping, like coolant.

      I forgot what exactly this elbow does but in a way, I feel like it may have sprayed before, even before I got the car. As you can see in this pic, the power steering lines are very nasty and so is the sub frame right below them. I have never found a power steering leak (which is what I thought it all was from) but even though I wiped these lines off when putting the engine in, they became nasty/dirty/greasy again.

      FYI it has been very hot here lately, and this is my builds first full summer. The past few weeks I have seen the temp guage higher than I ever have (a normal amount, just never seen it since I finished last fall).
      so you need a heater core

      Comment


      • #4
        That's what I'm told. How hard is it to get to?
        SpudFiles
        Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
        Theopia
        Enjoy life online.

        1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
        3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

        Comment


        • #5
          hardest part would be getting the connectors of the lines... just follow your nose, you can do it.

          Comment


          • #6
            Heater core if stock are plastic lines. Those usually break off anyway. Mine did and dumped all the coolant at once in a big steam cloud one night in the drive through at mcdonalds right as I got my food and rolled away. Pulled right over and shut it off. Clamped both lines shut and filled up and drove home, but ruined my plans for that night.

            Aftermarket are all metal so that's good.

            You disconnect the lines, then go under your dash in the center and take off this access panel and you'll see it. A bitch to get to, you may want to remove the center console, but be prepared for a shoulder and neck ache doing this job.

            That tube is the catch tray drain. It catches the evap core condensation and also the heater core's coolant if it leaks/goes.
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

            Comment


            • #7
              Walked outside to drive home from work, ended up pulling the car into the shop and lifting it up to see the problem . Broke off a piece of the heater core inlet, put it between the lines and put new hose clamps on it. My "heater core delete". Used that for a couple weeks before I put a new heater core in. GM replacement heater cores are also all metal . Just don't forget to twist the lines to look like the one you pull out . (by twist I mean rotate the inlet/outlet.)
              You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
              ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
              95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..

              Comment


              • #8
                It's with my mechanic today for him to fix, I can't fit under my dash that well, it's not worth my time doing when he can do it so much faster and easier!

                Thanks guys.
                SpudFiles
                Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                Theopia
                Enjoy life online.

                1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Did you get a price quote before they started? After the $1200 bill to change out the heater core in my Blazer a few years back, when it went in my Beretta, I opted to change it out myself.
                  -Brad-
                  89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                  sigpic
                  Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I did but no need really, my mechanic is like my friend now
                    SpudFiles
                    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                    Theopia
                    Enjoy life online.

                    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Eeek... that reminds me... I still have stock plastic lines in my pink car on the heater core...

                      Damnit, I know that will go soon.

                      Got Lope?
                      3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                      Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                      Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                      12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I asked about the plastic lines... he said mine had all metal. I was like what? He showed me, it was all metal. Maybe this is a replacement heater core and it leaked too?
                        SpudFiles
                        Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                        Theopia
                        Enjoy life online.

                        1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                        3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I had one leak when I was messing around looking for the water leak from rain water, and mine started seeping, pulled it out and compared it to a new one (cause I lost my receipt, and I had too many things ordered on the account I purchased with to search) and the one that was leaking was only crimped 2 places, and the new one was in 4 places. That's where it was leaking..

                          They can also corrode out. My friends 93 intrepid was corroded out and leaking in the fin section (could smell it when the heater was on). His was all metal.
                          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                          Original L82 Longblock
                          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            they can get clogged and start to leak. yeah, it sux.

                            make sure you use distilled water when filling the rad. that will prevent some scale build up. and be sure to flush ur coolant system once a year.

                            other than that, not much you can do to prevent that kinda thing
                            3500, 1280 cam and PR, ls6 valve springs, port and polished heads, ported lim, ported uim, 4.3 70mm tb, ported trueleo headers and y pipe ALL FOR SALE (minus the car)
                            96 LT4 6spd corvette. 355, AI 215cc LT4 Comp CNC Heads, Prope SRS pistons, Ported intake, ARH long tubes, Corsa Indy Pace 4:10 gears
                            2012 Chevy Sonic Turbo 6spd
                            1970 M35A2 Deuce and a Half, Spin on filters, Turned up IP, HIDs, Flat Black, 11.00x20 singles.

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