Valvetrain noise after cam swap

[tractorman]

so I am supposed to sell him more parts? What for exactly? Why does he need heads to fix this problem? Maybe it is the heads. Maybe the rocker pedestal mounts aren't the right height. Yeah...

It was sarcasm.

Maybe that dialect isn't used up North.

[SappySE107]

Or he can continue to throw parts at it. Ain't my problem.

So, its not your problem and you wanted to sound like an asshole about it.

I measured for the pushrods using a pushrod length checker, in my test block. I used the number of turns based on thread pitch, but this was based on non roller when its roller, so the pushrods are LONGER than they should be. Little bit. Still ok to run, just not the amount I was shooting for. No way in hell are they too short.

I had him do a compression test first because I had this problem before, and had to get shorter pushrods because the #6 cylinder's exhaust wouldn't close. If they are too long, you won't have compression. This is not his problem.

Perhaps this "TCD compression" thing is the problem.. Thats called sarcasm.

But, hell... I assume you're in business to make money, Sappy. Most of us are. So go ahead and sell him some more aftermarket parts. Chances are pretty slim that it'll solve his problem- but this guy is persistant. He's already WAY over his head, and still buying parts without really understanding what's going on. Maybe you can sell him some heads next.

Telling me this is sarcasm is another lie. You had better get your act together.

[tractorman]

What would you call it, if not sarcasm?

[3400-95-Modified]

I think you need to get to know some people better on this board as far ask their knowledge and skills, I've been there a few times to help him with this project... I know there is lifter preload and if there is enough I checked that myself, and if there wasnt enough with the aftermarket pushrods then the stock ones put in place would have been looser than a $5 whore!

This is NOT a preload issue this is a lifter issue with them either not pumping up or not holding any hydraulic pressure and collapsing at idle.

He's replaced a bunch of things but NOT the one and only thing in my mind that I would directly connect to the issue... being the lifters. So far I think he has spent minimal money going through this by using j/y parts and other stuff he has had lying around... he's been avoiding throwing money at it and thats why the lifters haven't been done yet.

[gectek]

or maybe the oil pump isnt doing its job, or the press spring, or the oil galleries, it may be putting the proper pressure, but what about volume...just an idea, when i get mine done, its getting a brand new melling pump, rod and pickup. ins to try to make sure my dang valvetrain noise doesnt come back

[3400-95-Modified]

he's getting like 40+psi at idle, so I cant see that as the main issue... I've seen lower on other cars.

[gectek]

yes, but not only pressure is involved in fluid movement, also volume, you can have 50psi at the fuel press tap, but no volume and the car will act like poo...just a thought though, is there a reason he is getting so high at idle? i thought 15 was reg spec...

[3400-95-Modified]

if 15 is reg spec then my cars are f-ed up... I get like 60 on the pink one and 40 on the red one.

[gectek]

at idle, which is what 600-700 they are supposed to be 15
1. Inspect the oil level.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the oil filter.
4. Assemble the plunger valve in the large hole of the J25087-C base.Insert the hose in the small hole of the J 25087-C base. Connect the gage to the end of the hose.
5. Insert the flat side of the rubber plug in the bypass valve without depressing the bypass valve.
6. Install the J 25087-C on the filter mounting pad.
7. Start the engine.
8. Inspect the overall oil pressure, the oil pressure switch, and for noisy lifters. Ensure that the engine is at operating temperature before inspecting the oil pressure. The oil pressure should be approximately 414 kPa (60 psi) at 1,850 RPM using 5W-30 engine oil.
9. If adequate oil pressure is indicated, test the oil pressure switch.
10. If a low reading is indicated, press the valve on the tester base in order to isolate the oil pump and/or its components from the lubricating system. An adequate reading at this time indicates a good pump and the previous low pressure was due to worn bearings, etc. A low reading while pressing the valve indicates a faulty pump.

Oil Pressure - Warm 15 psi @ 1100 RPM

i dont think it should change much until anything over 1100...but maybe its a bad spec...just going off what the book says

[SappySE107]

Hot vs cold I bet. I doubt he runs it long enough to get hot. Wasn't this a low mileage motor to begin with?

[bszopi]

I think its minimum 15psi. On my (burned up) 3400, I don't think it ever dropped below 40psi. Normal cruising it was around 50psi, and idle was around 40-45psi. There were times it was above 60psi.

[gectek]

yah that is warm and of course the pressure will increase with RPM, but volume and pressure are not related like that, when one goes up the other doesnt always go up, and if one is good that doesnt mean the other is. pressure is just the capacity after a volume has been filled, usually induced by restriction, like the spring and shim for the oiling system, the bearings and tolerances.

[geldartb]

even warm this thing kicks out like 40-50 psi of oil pressure and it was the same with the 90k 3400 that came out of the same car.

whell Jon was there for this too but with a cordless impact that spins at something like 2000-2300 the oil pressure was pretty good and flowed through the holes it was suppose to good.

the lifters that are in there now are the old lifters from my old motor that i took apart and cleaned and put the LT1 springs in. i cleaned them out pretty good.

the only thing all this crap cost me was a timing cover gasket, a tube of rtv and a shitload of time.

theres seriously nothing Ben could sell me to solve this except a set of lifters which ill be buying from the ebay posting friday. or some magical shit to figure this out got any crystal balls

oh yeah it has warmed up to like maybe 150-170ish but not much more than that since at the time i didnt have much antifreeze in it. i have a 180-tstat in it.

[gectek]

yah, well just trying to give another angle. i had alot of valvetrain noise too, im not sure if it was from the cam sliding or what, i wouldnt think so tho, but im hoping mine goes away, if i find something out i will let you know

[geldartb]

thanks for the posts i hope to figure this soon.
the cam is def not sliding in mine.

the lifters are my last thing to try then im out of ideas and mental stability with this car.

between the magnetic drain plug and the filter the shit thats in the block should be caught its got new oil in it right now.

if the lifters dont solve it im this close to pulling the engine and putting the stock cam back in and run the shit out of the car and then aim for buying the diesel truck i want a couple years from now.