Valvetrain noise after cam swap

[IsaacHayes]

I have a nifty hose I put on my radiator drain tube and it sticks out a hole in the bottom of the radiator support so I can drain it right into a pan and it's nice and clean that way and no spills. But you're gonna have coolant spilling into the oil and floor when you take that timing cover off unless you take a coolant plug out of the block. When I did mine I just let it spill and I siphoned the excess out of the block with a hose and then when I was done I drained the oil plug a little to get rid of the coolant that fell down into the pan before starting it up.

[geldartb]

the radiator has a draincock on it that points directly down i usually use and old 3 liter soda bottle or milk jug to catch the antifreeze in but it somehow manages to find its way to the floor.

dont know how much antifreeze made its way into the block but yeah i guess ill just have to live with it when i pop the timing cover.

i got a big white tray about 4 inches deep and about 4 feet x 4 feet that i can clean out to catch the excess in the block. robbed that when i worked at papa ginos if youve ever seen behind the counter its the big white containers they keep the dough in until they need it to make a pizza.
makes a good catch container.

[pocket-rocket]

Just be careful when the cover goes back on, or you will be dropping the pan for a new pan gasket. Been there, done that >.<

[geldartb]

ah yeah gotcha was super careful when i was putting the cover back on the first time.
i have a spare oil pan gasket but id prefer not to use it unless i have to, it was originally going to go on the old 3400 that was in there but the coolant had other ideas.

[geldartb]

i think i found the issue. now i know when i sealed it up the first time the thing was timed right you know everything lined up according to the picture i had from alldata.
now i open the thing up today and instead of the alignment nub on the cam pointing to the right its 180 degrees opposite it was pointing left.

all the dots are aligned on the cam and sprocket the way they are suppose to be, so well see.

might go down after i get the gasket and finish putting it back together.

so all that said and done after i get another timing cover gasket and it back together she should be good to go.

Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 38612.
Apply prelude GM P/N 1052365 or an equivalent to the crankshaft sprocket thrust surface.





Install the timing chain dampener
Install the timing chain dampener bolts.
Tighten the timing chain dampener bolt to 21 N.m. (15 lb.ft.) .





Align the crankshaft timing mark(2) to the timing mark on the bottom of the timing chain dampener (1).
Hold the camshaft sprocket with the timing chain hanging down.





Install the timing chain to the crankshaft gear.
Align the timing mark on the camshaft gear (4) with the timing mark on top of the timing chain dampener (3).
Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket.
Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft using the mounting bolt.
Coat the crankshaft and the camshaft sprocket with engine oil.
Tighten the bolt to 140 N.m. (103 lb.ft.)
Install the crankcase front cover.
Fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable.

this is how i did it so if its wrong then i blame the directions.

[bszopi]

The crank sprocket rotated twice as fast as the cam sprocket, therefore the dots will align with the cam button to the right AND to the left.

[geldartb]

i remembered that part afterwards. well once i get it back together it better sound normal as in none of that noise bullish or else its gonna die a firery death.

unless the little mexicans snuck in there and had there way with my engine then im stumped.

hmm maybe its time to go all 3500 and cam that.

[3400-95-Modified]

no maybe its just time to replace the lifters like all of them and see what happens... granted you used new springs in them but replace them with others. Or just dont bother working on it anymore.

[geldartb]

well its timed correctly, everything is lined up the way its suppose to be and i got the pushrods that came with the cam in there.

still has the ghey sound like before. ill pick some new lifters up in a few weeks.
i let it run for a few minutes until it just randomly stalled then i left. the lifters were all stiff so its not liek they were empty.

other than this thing being extremely picky with shit i dont know what else to go after.

[SappySE107]

Have you done any tuning?

[IsaacHayes]

Did you ever try the stock pushrods? I've lost track... Maybe it will quieten down later...

[geldartb]

just to change the injector flow rate and idle.

was trying to solve the noise before anything. and its not registered so no driving around with it also with that i was waiting till i got everything solved before i went ahead and got insusrance on a car that wasnt going to be drivin, and i just started working again so up until a few weeks ago putting another car on the insurance wasnt an option.

i do believe im still running the same spark table i was running last year which isnt that much different from the stock Grand am table which is pretty up there anyway so its only like a few degrees more than stock.

the IFR is tuned for the 30lb series 1 3800sc injectors and something like 45psi at the rail.

stock iridium plugs and msd 8.5mm wires not that old and stock 05 coil packs.

any tips on what to change. ive got an LT1 maf came from a 94-95 caprice but from what i found it basically the same as what i have now.

i dont know but this thing just doesnt sound right.

[geldartb]

did the stock pushrods a few weeks ago. and still made the same noise except for when i put it in gear it stalled.

yesterday i let it idle for something like 5 minutes and then it randomly stalled so i left for the day, at that point it was already like 3 or 4 hours into it.

maybe ill try and get it registered so i can drive it a little its only like 50 bucks for me to get plates again and a few months insurance cant be too bad.

[SappySE107]

back the timing off. Stock grand am is over advanced. If you run the DHP 1.5 file, its beyond that. Im not a fan of the 1.5 at all.

[geldartb]

never got the 1.5 file so everything else is basically reset to stock except for my shift points.

i gave up on the 1.5 file its been over a year and i still have not got it yet and well yeah its kinda useless now. ive asked countless times for it.

heres a scan that i did a few weeks ago timing is hangin around 30 at idle

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4967

cruising at highway speeds i think wheni had the milzy pcm before i started mesing around with the pcm's the timing was chillin at something like 45 degrees.

im pretty sure i reset everything to stock except for the ifr which i changed to match the injectors. ill double check that and reflash it wont get down there till friday to try that.

but as of this past friday its timed correctly with all the marks lined up the way there suppose to be on the sprockets and other stuff.