Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3.1L Sudden Power Loss and Won't Stay Running

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 3.1L Sudden Power Loss and Won't Stay Running

    Hello to all, and thank you in advance for your help.
    I searched the threads for a similar problem to mine without any success, but found the members of this forum to be very helpful.

    Car: 97 Pontiac GA 3.1L
    Mileage: 151K
    VIN: 1G2NE52M7Vc817481

    I've owned this car 1.5 years and maintained it and fixed any minor problems. Prior to this problem, engine was running fine, no noises, and 22 mpg avg. One evening coming home, engine started missing every few seconds under load going up a steep hill (50mph). I immedietely slowed, and rolled back down the hill to a gas station. Checked vitals, oil, coolant, air filter, and found all full and in good condition. Started car again and let idle. Every few seconds, engine would miss, and time between misses eventually grew shorter, and engine quit. Engine would restart, but only stay running with throttle manipulation. Tried starting car again to limp home, but engine just quit. No loud bang, noises, or ticks. No leaks, noticeable blockages, or electrical shorts. Towed car home.

    Checked spark on all 6 cyl, very good. Spark plug condition: very good. Opened Fuel rail check valve: fuel squirted out like crazy, but didn't use a guage to verify pressure. Replaced fuel filter anyway (since this part is easy to replace). At this point in time I believed the problem was in an electric module, so I towed it in town to a repair shop.

    Initial repair shop told me, "found cylinders #4,5,6 with extermely low compression." Since this explanation didn't satisfy the immediate breakdown, or explain why the engine would start, but not stay running, I decided to get another opinion.

    2nd repair shop (Pontiac Dealership) told me, "Hooked up scan tool, saw engine was misfiring on cyl 4,5,6, Performed compression ck on 2,4,5,6 Results as follows 2-140 psi, 4-95 psi, 5- psi, 6-90 psi. Need eng torn down & insp / repaired or new motor." I asked what the psi was on cyl 5, and they said 0.

    I asked both repair shops what their best guess was as to the compression, and they both replied something mechanical, and probably not the head gasket.

    Took car home, removed spark plugs again and found cyl 5 full of fuel, approx 1/2 cup after absorbing it out. I believe this was caused by repair shops conducting numerous compression tests and not burning fuel from cylinder. Used fiber optic light to inspect front bank of cylinders, and didn't see anything suspicious. Removed valve cover and manually checked actuation of valves and springs: all moved fine and appeared lubricated. Removed rockers from cyl 1 and 5 (assuming this would close the valves for sure). Used compressed air and nozzle at 30 psi and blew into cylinders. Cyl 1 would very slowly leak out. Cyl 5 leaked out very fast and into intake manifold (Air came blowing out of manifold). I believed at this time I might have a bent intake valve.

    Removed head and cannot find ANYTHING that indicates pressure loss. Valves seated nicely against head and in good condition. No evidence of burnt rings, or scored cylinders. No holes or cracks in pistons, cylinders, or head. Gasket in fine condition.

    What now??

    Thank you.
    Aaron

  • #2
    check the bore, see if its egg shaped. see if the engine spins freely.

    take each piston to tdc, right before it starts going down, rock the piston side to side and up and down. if it has some good movement, it could be piston probems, ring problems, or out of round cyl.

    check your intake where the pcv goes in...look for excessive oil in the intake...thats an indicator of bad rings or high crankcase pressure.

    either way id rebuild the engine right now....you have it half way apart...

    check out citymotorsupply.com they do a good job and a fast, friendly and cheap
    3500, 1280 cam and PR, ls6 valve springs, port and polished heads, ported lim, ported uim, 4.3 70mm tb, ported trueleo headers and y pipe ALL FOR SALE (minus the car)
    96 LT4 6spd corvette. 355, AI 215cc LT4 Comp CNC Heads, Prope SRS pistons, Ported intake, ARH long tubes, Corsa Indy Pace 4:10 gears
    2012 Chevy Sonic Turbo 6spd
    1970 M35A2 Deuce and a Half, Spin on filters, Turned up IP, HIDs, Flat Black, 11.00x20 singles.

    Comment


    • #3






      Here are the pics of progress so far. Head has been gently cleaned. Valve close up is of "0 Compression" Cyl 5.

      Yes, engine is still in car, but removal was safe and clean.

      Comment


      • #4
        Rest of photos are here:



        http://www.flickr.com/photos/7430539@N07/

        The cylinders don't seem to be out of round.

        All valves are seated nicely. Head gasket is in excellent shape.

        I can't seem to find where this compression loss is coming from

        Thanks again,
        Aaron

        Comment


        • #5
          did you do a leak down on the head? flip it over and fill the chamber of the head with water and see if it leaks the water out.

          If your getting 0 compression that is a large ammount of air that has to go somewhere..

          S
          Shane "RedZMonte"
          2004 Corvette Z06 Commemorative Edition -VIRGIN
          1995 Monte Carlo Z34 14.38@101mph, 331hp/355tq
          -Turbonetics T04E Super 60 Turbo, 2.5" Borla Catback, OBDII, 42.5# Injectors
          2004 Subaru WRX STI -Lightly Modded (SOLD)
          1994 Lumina Z34 -VIRGIN (SOLD)
          1992 Lumina Z34-VIRGIN (RIP)
          1992 L67 Lumina Z34 (SOLD)
          1990 Turbo Grand Prix (SOLD)

          Comment


          • #6
            cam lobe. could have shifted since they're pressed on. you've gone sooo far in to diagnosing, you might as well drop the cradle a little and check the cam.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you for the suggestions.

              I am going to try the leak down test, maybe with carb cleaner too, since it is thinner than water.

              I am suspicious about the cams too, since I found out on this forum that they were pressed on. I just barely can't see them in my tear down process so far.

              The help is greatly appreciated.

              Comment


              • #8
                I'd do another compression test and this time you conduct it. Make sure the tester is nice and tight.
                Lorenzo
                '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
                '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

                Comment


                • #9
                  O.K.
                  Instead of jumping to mechanical, because I find it very hard to believe that a cylinder has "0" compression, without bent valves and blown rings, ect... I would have checked your coil packs and ign modual.

                  Check the cam since you have it apart...

                  The internals so far look good...


                  Anyways, the coil packs do not set DTC's other than missfire data.
                  Your pcm will also not tell you if your modual took a poop except for miss fire data.

                  Go buy a comp tester and do the comp test your self.

                  remember that a "dry" cylinder has less comp than a "wet" one.
                  Fill the cylinder with a little oil and spin the engine over without the plugs in it to wetten the bore, than do your comp test.
                  140 psi is about 9.0/ 1, so thats a good spec.
                  95 psi sounds "dry' to me.

                  yes your cam lobes can mess up, but they would not just miss a little here and a little there before getting worse, they would just f%ck up and run like sh!t right off rip.

                  I think its a coilpack or modual problem....
                  Last edited by powerdoctor; 04-10-2008, 12:26 PM.
                  !!!!! BOSCH PLUGS RULE !!!!!
                  http://www.cardomain.com/id/powerdoctor

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've conducted a leak test of the head, and a tiny amount of fluid leaked out around Cyl 5 intake valve. All the other valves were leak-proof. Have purchased new gaskets from NAPA, and am ready to begin reassembly.

                    So, I'm back to the electrical, rather than mechanical suspicion; just as Powerdoctor is thinking.

                    Checked the voltage going to the Camshaft Position Sensor: 12-14V.

                    Checked the resistance across the Cam. Pos. Sensor (using x100 ohm mode): 35 to 300 ohms depending on which circuit and which way I oriented the electrodes.

                    Does anyone know how to get to the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Seems impossible to reach between the engine and transaxle.

                    From what I understand, the ICM controls ignition and (?) spark under 400 rpm (during starting). After that, the ECU takes over.

                    So since the engine will start, but not stay running, I am thinking the ECU...

                    Thank you again for any furthur suggestions.
                    Aaron

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      a tiny ammount of water leaking through the valve is a ton of air..

                      she needs a valve job
                      Past Builds;
                      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                      Current Project;
                      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by merlot566jka View Post

                        check out citymotorsupply.com they do a good job and a fast, friendly and cheap
                        WOW! I would say. My '90 heads are $80 there! Thx for the link ,sorry to be OT.
                        Oh, and I'm gonna have to agree with Dave here. You need a valve job. Do one before dropping those heads back on. GL.
                        Last edited by SuzukiGhostRider; 04-12-2008, 04:10 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If his seats look ok and his valves arent bent he may ba able to clean the valve/ seat and relap it.
                          A small peice of carbon may have got trapped between the valve and the seat.... I have seen wierder crap.

                          I would like to see some pics of the heads with a valve out, and the valve.

                          A valve job all around is a good idea, but if he doe not have the cash, he may get away with cleaning the valves and seats.

                          This 1 bad seated valve ( cyl 5 ) would account for 1 missfire thought, not 3/4 missfires on clyinders that have good/ decent compression.

                          I still think he has other issue's, and they happened to find this valve on the compression check, in the process...
                          !!!!! BOSCH PLUGS RULE !!!!!
                          http://www.cardomain.com/id/powerdoctor

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Valve lapping compound is cheap, and since he is in the diagnosis stage, I would probably relap them for now to make sure seating surfaces are good and no more water leaks before reassembly. That's my $.02 anyways.
                            -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                            91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                            92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                            94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                            Originally posted by Jay Leno
                            Tires are cheap clutches...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well, I think I found the problem...









                              More pics here:


                              I took my front head (1,3,5 cyl) to local NAPA / Machine Shop. Have been treated really nice there by the way. They used a vacuum guage for me, and cyl 1 and 3 read -0.7 (in the green / good range). Cyl 5 read -0.6, just barely below the green / good range. They told me the head was ok, and that it was not the cause of the 0 compression.

                              So I put the head back on, new gaskets and all, and briefely cranked the engine over before putting the valve cover back on and preparing for another compression check.

                              Rockers were only moving for cyl 1.

                              Double and triple checked that I had push rods in, and in correct order. I couldn't believe what I'd heard on these forums was true: A Broken Camshaft!

                              Well, thank you all for the help so far. It seems there are 2 possible causes for this failure. The first is the oil starved portions of the camshaft that ride next to the bearings. One half of the cam could have siezed up. The second possibility I can think of is the oil pump locking up and torqueing the cam.

                              As you can see in the pictures, I have discovered 2 other major parts that are broken.
                              1: the bent pushrod for cyl 6. I believe this most likely happened during camshaft failure. Camshaft broke, resulting in pushrod / rocker / valve staying in open position and probably smacking piston.
                              2: the camshaft "retainer," as I refer to it. I also think this happened during camshaft failure. My theory is that when the camshaft broke, it forced the still operating end (timing chain end) over and away from the non-operating end. This caused enough friction to break the retainer into several pieces and even friction weld one part to it.

                              I don't believe I am the culprit for oil starvation. Probably a previous owner.

                              When I get the other head off that had the bent pushrod, I will post more pics!

                              Thanks for the help!

                              Aaron

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X