2001 Lumina 3100, excess cranking time

[tractorman]

Question about the wife's car. It's a 2001 Lumina with a 3100, 174,000 miles. We've had the car for two years. The engine has started a bit strangely ever since we've had it- I don't think that it's getting any worse, but it's getting on my nerves.

When I start the thing, I have to crank it quite a bit longer than my other 3100 ('94 Corsica). It isn't THAT bad- just a few seconds... but it seems like it has to spin over a full turn or two before it'll start.

The battery is only a year old, and in good condition. The cables are in good shape. The engine cranks plenty fast... it's a matter of how long I gotta crank it before it fires up. The car runs perfect otherwise... no codes or issues whatsoever.

Any ideas? Weak crank sensor, maybe?

[DEI37]

Could be low compression, and the cranking builds some compression, and that's when it fires. Could be a weak fuel pump, too. Check fuel pressure, and if you're ambitious, compression, too.

[3100 MPFI]

Does it only do it for the first startup for the day, and is fine for the rest of the day? If so, if the car sits for a few hours, and overnight be hard to start again?

If that is the case, then the most likely culprit is the pulsator (fuel pump thing). The seal goes out in them so that is loses pressure when it sits.

One way to check this is turn the key on, wait for the fuel pump to stop running, THEN start the car. That is how I diagnosed it in my Grand Prix.

[tractorman]

This cranking symptom occurs every single time the engine is started. Doesn't seem to be affected by temperature, time sitting, or anything of the sort.

I'll check fuel pressure. I seriously doubt that compression is bad. It doesn't use a drop of oil.

I'd be interested in any other suggestions.

[tractorman]

Nearly two years and 35,000 miles later the car still does the same thing, but I've got to know the vehicle better, and can be a little more specific.

The symptom remains the same, but I've noticed that if I give it a little throttle while cranking, the engine will fire right up. It's as if the engine is starved for air while cranking. I'm not too familiar with IAC valve on these cars (I understand what they do, but have never removed or messed with one)... would that be a possibility?

[60dgrzbelow0]

Can you say if the exhaust is smokey...and if so... the color of the plumes? Bright blue smoke after acceleration from a Stop Light indicates Bad Valve Guide Seals. You can diagnose whether the problem is Bad Valves by taking a 3" X 6" strip of paper and while the engine is idling...hold the strip of paper across the very end of the tail pipe. If the engine is behaving normally...the paper will flutter like a Hummingbird's wings...but if there are worn valves and valve seats any place within the engine heads... the strip of paper will occasionally get sucked back inside of the tail pipe. If this happens even once..the diagnosis is conclusive for needing a Valve Job on both engine heads.

Consider doing a Dry/Wet compression test on this tired engine. This very excellent instructional video has some Universal Compression Testing Procedures that should be followed to accomplish the task without ruining your battery or making the test impossible:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U8iNb21arw

The compression test is definitive and depending upon the readings...you will know whether the engine needs the refreshment of a Ring and Valve job.

[IsaacHayes]

My friends did this, not sure if it still does. Some say it's a fuel pressure issue, FPR ,etc.

[robertisaar]

One way to check this is turn the key on, wait for the fuel pump to stop running, THEN start the car. That is how I diagnosed it in my Grand Prix.

that's the ONLY way i start a fuel injected vehicle.

[IsaacHayes]

Bah, I just turn the key, fires right up!

[robertisaar]

i can do that, but i feel that it isn't the best way to go about it.

[stewartfn18]

mine had this problem as well. it turned out to be a bad fpr

[rcates]

its burnt vavles not leting it hold compresion lol

[60dgrzbelow0]

If the Sparks are tarry black and gooey and/or... gap out at what looks like 0.075" from electrolytic wear and tear... that might make starting a Stone Bitch, too.

[Azrael]

I'm not too familiar with IAC valve on these cars (I understand what they do, but have never removed or messed with one)... would that be a possibility?

It's an easy enough thing to check on. It's near the top of the thottlebody facing the firewall. There'll be 2 torx screws holding it in. If you move the pintle while cleaning/inspecting it, make sure it's extended no more than 1-1/8th of an inch from the mounting flange to the tip of the pintle before re-assembly.

[pocket-rocket]

that's the ONLY way i start a fuel injected vehicle.

My truck still has the hanging tag that was on the rear view in the glove box that says "This vehicle is equipped with an EFI system" and says not to hit the gas or anything to start it, lol.