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Changed injectors, now it doesn't start.

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  • Changed injectors, now it doesn't start.

    So, on the Trooper 3.4L SFI conversion project: I got it running and driving, however it was running super rich. I had an injector (#3) that was leaking terribly. I have a spare set of injectors from a bundle of parts I bought (from a similar 93-95 SFI 3.4L), unknown condition, but I was hoping they at least wouldn't be AS bad. The part number stamped on them was different than my originals, so I opted to switch all the injectors to keep everything the same. Stupidly, I didn't make note of the number before I installed them. Anyway, I got everything is back together and it fired right up. Ran for a couple seconds, then died. Since then, I get NOTHING. I have spark, I have fuel pressure, I have 12v to the injectors (no noid light to test though). The spare injectors are the same impedance as the original ones.

    I can only assume that I roasted the ECU somehow. I did blow a fuse on my custom wiring harness at some point (which is unlabeled of course). I never disconnected the battery while I was working on it; again, kind of stupid. The fuse (10A) has been replaced and it holds.

    I have another ECU from an automatic equipped vehicle (Trooper is a 5-sp). I tried swapping that in, still no fire. My harness does have a VATS bypass built in, any idea if that is specific to the ECU? I'll call the place that made it Monday morning to find out for sure.

    Any thoughts?
    Last edited by Canyonero; 02-17-2008, 04:17 AM.
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

  • #2
    Well if they are the same impedance then I doubt that fried it. And I've take apart stuff with the battery still connected so I don't loose the calibrations that the ECM adjust to since my car is no longer stock and it takes a while for it to re-learn. I only disconnect it when I might short the battery or short a connector. But disconnecting a few sensors if the car isn't switched on I can't see as causing a problem.

    How did the fuse blow? 10a is pretty big.

    What ECM are you running?? From what car? Is it a 3.1mpfi ECM with modified code for a 3400? Or a 3400 ECM?? If it's the later then it could be the VATS since it will run for a few secs then shut off the car if it doesn't get it's signal. We gotta know what ECM you are using... hehe. spill it! (car, engine, year, etc)


    EDIT: you said 93-95 3.4SFI... Is it not a 3400 but a 3.4 1st gen iron head fbody motor?
    Last edited by IsaacHayes; 02-17-2008, 03:57 PM.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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    • #3
      It is an unmodified F-Body engine, stock ECM. I was going to get a set of noids, but the parts place apparently closes at 1:30 on Sundays now.

      I left the battery disconnected overnight to see if that would clear something, but it still wouldn't fire.
      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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      • #4
        Looks like I have trigger pulse on the injectors, so now it's looking like all my injectors are clogged. They were sitting around for a long time still connected to the fuel rail full of stale gas for years.
        '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
        '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
        '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
        '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

        Comment

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