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Break it to me gently

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  • Break it to me gently

    Please explain to me why my exhaust gets to be whiter and more profuse as the engine warms. Please explain this to me in a way that doesn't involve a blown head gasket on the used engine I already paid way too much for and I've been working on installing in my Isuzu for the last year.

    I've only just started the engine earlier this week, and it is well beyond the 90-day warranty.
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

  • #2
    I would suggest a Bad CAT or something clogged in the exhaust. Another possibility are leaky injectors causing the fuel to burn where it's not suppose to be burning.
    Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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    • #3
      Just had same thing happen on a project car. I beleive seveal times it rained in the downpipe with motor and hood removed, putting several quarts of water in there.

      On initial start, there was little visible steam. For several days the engine was run for 5 or 10 minutes at a time doing tinkering and adjusting but car was not driven. Each time more steam condensed in the muffler pipe.

      By the day the car was finally roadworthy, there was loads of water in the muffler and exhaust pipework. As I ran the engine under load, the exhaust heat started to boil off and expel the water. The steam became more pronounced as it warmed up. The wether was unseasonably cold here, and it made everyone's car leave a vapor trail. This one was massive and looked like I had a blown headgasket. But after a few minutes of moderate driving, the steam was diminished to a normal level.

      Hope this is what you have, not a headgasket issue.
      David Allen - Northport, AL
      1986 Century T-Type, Iron Head 3.1 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
      1988 Olds Ciara XC, GenII 2.8 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
      1972 Chevy Nova, 305 Small Block V8 EFI
      1984 Century Olympia, 3.8SFI Turbo, over 400 HP
      http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1
      http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbokinetic

      Comment


      • #4
        I hope so too. I'll keep working on it and hope for the best. Otherwise, it'll be going to the shop. I have no ambition to do the heads myself.
        '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
        '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
        '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
        '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

        Comment


        • #5
          If you talking about exhaust VAPOR then I would go with David Allen train of thought IF you do a leak down test and it shows good numbers.
          Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

          Comment


          • #6
            No noticeable smoke after a couple miles of driving today, and none of it was white. The first seven miles it's been driven in a year and a half! I'm pleased, seems the head gasket is ok (but I'm not saying I didn't get ripped off on the engine). Still planning to get my spare set of injectors reconditioned.
            '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
            '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
            '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
            '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

            Comment


            • #7
              Glad it's working out for you! Thanks for letting us know how it is going.
              David Allen - Northport, AL
              1986 Century T-Type, Iron Head 3.1 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
              1988 Olds Ciara XC, GenII 2.8 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
              1972 Chevy Nova, 305 Small Block V8 EFI
              1984 Century Olympia, 3.8SFI Turbo, over 400 HP
              http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1
              http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbokinetic

              Comment

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