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Ok so since I was a young lad, my first auto was an 88 grand prix 2.8, and have moved up to my third 3.1 cutlass supr. in my old age, on the principal that I have had to replace or repair damn near everything on these cars at one point, so I wont have to learn how all over on a new pos. especially considering the cost of parts. But heres the deal. I have a prob, that I cant finger out, my youngest bro. (the ase cert. gm mech. whose only reply is "take it to the dealer") cant figure it out or my wifes inlaws who own a body and tranny shop cant either. So thats me and 7 mechanics. Since we are all idiots, I have come to you for help. Please. Before I end it all.
My 91 cutlass (vin t) ran fine for years. Last fall, my wife got whacked by a beetle (vw, nt flyin) on the pass. side. Had to replace both doors. Anywho, since then I have had a serious, charging/starting prob. At first I thought it was the alt. Replaced it, same prob. Retested bad, replaced again with another, this time tested it first. Then the battery. Figured this was the prob. Returned 3 of them in last 6 months. Would come out to car, turn the ignition and either have no juice, or dash would flicker and make some screechin static, or come on and the dash cluster would tell me I have no voltage. SO I would charge the battery and replace. Car starts. Except the batteries were good and I overcharged them, thus ruining them. I got smart the last time and had it checked before chargin. So now I have a good alt, and good batt. But the starter cranks extremely slowly or not at all. It sounds like a locomotive, slowly building up steam. After cranking for a couple of min. it will start. Have tested it with the multimeter, but I cant find a listing for how much resistance there should be in the circuit. And the dash still displays no voltage. Could it be a short in the solenoid? This only happens if the car has sat for more than an hour, warm or cold. If I shut it off, go in the store for a few min, and come back out it fires right up. Or if it even is the starter. What else is there in the series? Ignition sw., ecm, batt, starter. Fusible link maybe goin bad? Any insights would be seriously appreciated. I would hate to torch the car for insurance purposes.
thanks
My 91 cutlass (vin t) ran fine for years. Last fall, my wife got whacked by a beetle (vw, nt flyin) on the pass. side. Had to replace both doors. Anywho, since then I have had a serious, charging/starting prob. At first I thought it was the alt. Replaced it, same prob. Retested bad, replaced again with another, this time tested it first. Then the battery. Figured this was the prob. Returned 3 of them in last 6 months. Would come out to car, turn the ignition and either have no juice, or dash would flicker and make some screechin static, or come on and the dash cluster would tell me I have no voltage. SO I would charge the battery and replace. Car starts. Except the batteries were good and I overcharged them, thus ruining them. I got smart the last time and had it checked before chargin. So now I have a good alt, and good batt. But the starter cranks extremely slowly or not at all. It sounds like a locomotive, slowly building up steam. After cranking for a couple of min. it will start. Have tested it with the multimeter, but I cant find a listing for how much resistance there should be in the circuit. And the dash still displays no voltage. Could it be a short in the solenoid? This only happens if the car has sat for more than an hour, warm or cold. If I shut it off, go in the store for a few min, and come back out it fires right up. Or if it even is the starter. What else is there in the series? Ignition sw., ecm, batt, starter. Fusible link maybe goin bad? Any insights would be seriously appreciated. I would hate to torch the car for insurance purposes.
thanks
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