EGR Code....repair maybe???

[98malibu3.1]

I keep throwing "EGR Flow Insufficient" and I've pulled the solenoid and sprayed it down w/degreaser inside as well as both in/out passages. Is there any specific way to clean out the passages or can I have the EGR valve tested??

[85_Olds_Ciera]

I keep throwing "EGR Flow Insufficient"

The problem I encounter is that GM does not explain how these codes are triggered. Sometimes, a code might represent the effect, and not the cause.

De-carboning around EGR ports will not always solve the problem. It can be carboned up elsewhere, and this decreases the total flow rate.


Take a look here: EGR Systems: Operation and Diagnosis


Here's the beginning of that article

[98malibu3.1]

So am I going to have to pull the intake off and clean the passage in it as well as the metal tube that goes from exhaust mani. to EGR valve??? If that is the case, I am sooo NOT looking forward to doing that..............

[IanSzgatti]

you know what tools you need to take it off, so go to a u-pick yard if you can and grab one... not too hard to walk out with... don't think you just need to clean passages, because EGR valves do of course take a crap eventually.

[loosenutbehindthewheel]

how many miles do you have on this vehicle, is my first question. my second do you do alot of excessive idling?...and my third is have you measured the voltage going into and out of the egr/ecm?...just because it looks like a good part, doesnt mean it is...my .02...

[IsaacHayes]

Just get some stiff wire, some carb/brake cleaner, and clean the passage going into the intake manifold. No need to clean the exhaust supply line to the EGR. The intake passage is very small and clogs easily. You can open the throttle body to see your progress or take it off to get a better access to both ends of this passage.

[85_Olds_Ciera]

So am I going to have to pull the intake off and clean the passage in it...

I would suggest finding out how the EGR system works (computer, etc) first for your vehicle, before wasting time...you need to trouble shoot the electronic side, before the mechanical side (EGR Valve).

One has to know what other factors are involved...so, you have to learn the theory. Get a GM Service Manual, or see if your dealer has one...or buy one from Helm's for $135.00

I'm familiar with the older stuff on SBC...and if you don't know your system, you are asking the question, "do I feel lucky?"

Those articles cited in my earlier post...read them...he offers some suggestions.

When you throw an EGR code, it means you are running in the default map mode, which means you lose a pinch on fuel economy, and power curve.

[98malibu3.1]

you know what tools you need to take it off, so go to a u-pick yard if you can and grab one... not too hard to walk out with... don't think you just need to clean passages, because EGR valves do of course take a crap eventually.

The EGR valve itself isn't very expensive. Hell, it's only $132 my cost. It's an easy part to replace as well. 2-10mm bolts and unplug connector.

[98malibu3.1]

how many miles do you have on this vehicle, is my first question. my second do you do alot of excessive idling?...and my third is have you measured the voltage going into and out of the egr/ecm?...just because it looks like a good part, doesn't mean it is...my .02...

Car as of now has 95K miles and no, I don't do a lot of idling. What should the voltage range be? All I have is a digital multimeter and OBDII code scanner. The plunger part of the solenoid moves quite easily. Hell, it wasn't even very dirty......

[98malibu3.1]

Just get some stiff wire, some carb/brake cleaner, and clean the passage going into the intake manifold. No need to clean the exhaust supply line to the EGR. The intake passage is very small and clogs easily. You can open the throttle body to see your progress or take it off to get a better access to both ends of this passage.

What kind of brush? Like a thin bottle type brush? The passage takes a very sharp 90 deg. turn from the EGR valve mounting flange towards the intake mani.

[98malibu3.1]

I would suggest finding out how the EGR system works (computer, etc) first for your vehicle, before wasting time...you need to trouble shoot the electronic side, before the mechanical side (EGR Valve).

One has to know what other factors are involved...so, you have to learn the theory. Get a GM Service Manual, or see if your dealer has one...or buy one from Helm's for $135.00

I'm familiar with the older stuff on SBC...and if you don't know your system, you are asking the question, "do I feel lucky?"

Those articles cited in my earlier post...read them...he offers some suggestions.

When you throw an EGR code, it means you are running in the default map mode, which means you lose a pinch on fuel economy, and power curve.

I understand HOW it works, I'm trying to find out WHY it's NOT working.....i.e. plugged passage or faulty EGR valve. The EGR valve on my car is completely electronically controlled by the PCM. No vacuum lines or the such. I wish I had one of those $4K Snap-on Auto Analyzers......lol. Then I'd know for sure if the part is crap or not.

[Carlspike]

I used a coat hanger and some carb cleaner to clean out my intake passage. It took a while but it worked.

[IsaacHayes]

A coat hanger works, or some stiff large electrical wire. Something stiff but a little flexable, and go at it from both ends. I've done it several times like this. Only recently did my EGR die, and it broke inside where the valve was flopping loose and stuck open. Every time before that it was just that intake passage being clogged.

[98malibu3.1]

A coat hanger works, or some stiff large electrical wire. Something stiff but a little flexable, and go at it from both ends. I've done it several times like this. Only recently did my EGR die, and it broke inside where the valve was flopping loose and stuck open. Every time before that it was just that intake passage being clogged.

I'm hoping it's that and not the valve money wise....lol. Labor wise, I'd rather just swap on a new EGR valve. Do you know if this vintage of 60v6 has the updated intake gaskets? 1998 Malibu

[IsaacHayes]

No, the "updated" gasket from GM was 2003 or something like that. And all that was is they put 2 metal tabs in it so that it's not over-torqued during installation. It's still plastic and can fail after a while. It will crack or warp and move the rubber seals and then it leaks.

The fel-pro all metal one is the best one to have. Just watch the underside of your oil cap for mayo looking stuff. When you see that you've got coolant leaking into the oil and time for LIM gasket asap. Or if you see it leaking out the sides..