1995 Olds Achieva problems - Won't start.

[The_Bishop]

Hi folks. First time post on here, and here I am, dropping a problem into your laps.

My wife just inherited a 1995 Olds Achieva with the 3.1 V6 in it. Only has 43,000 miles on it. Up until recently, the car started and ran just fine.

Now, it won't start. It cranks and cranks, but no fire. Not even a sputter.

I ran some fast checks on it today. I have 39 psi of fuel pressure. But I have no spark and the injectors are not firing - The plugs are dry when I pull them after trying to start.

Any ideas on where to start? I'm thinking crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks for any help!

[The_Bishop]

Oh - Also, no engine codes according to my Actron scanner.

[IsaacHayes]

The Crank Position Sensor is probably shot.

I would get a new 7x CPS sensor and go from there. I've replaced mine twice. The 2nd time was because Autozone has crappy electronics. Don't get it from autozone.

[JoeMechanic]

Describe exactally what the car did when it died.Were you driving it when it quit or did it sit?.Sounds to me either a module problem or a crank sensor if it isn't getting any spark.The crank sensor would spit out a code..the module wouldn't if it just completely died.The module however would work but would quit eventually within a few hours and leave you stranded until the engine cools down.

[The_Bishop]

Joe: The car was sitting. Worked fine one day, about a week later it wouldn't start.

Isaac: What's a 7x CPS sensor? Or is that the correct name for the crankshaft position sensor?

[IsaacHayes]

It's the Crank Position Sensor. There are 2 of them on 3x00 motors. The one that controls spark is the 7x one and located in the block. It's hard to get to, on my car I had to put my arm between where the tie rod comes out or between the control arm. It's a do by feel operation. 10mm deep socket on a small ratchet IIRC. Then you pull it out.

There is a 2nd 24X CPS but that is only used for idle quality and it's located by the dampener pulley.

[The_Bishop]

Ahh, Ok. Thanks for the clarification.

You wouldn't have a part number handy, would you?

I know you said to avoid Autozone, but I use them for a reference sometimes.

Would that be part number SU137?

[IsaacHayes]

I dunno, each parts store would likely have a different p/n. I got mine from o-reillys. You can look them up on their websites.

Check wires around the coil packs that go to the module underneath them, and check the wires coming off of the CPS. It's odd that it just went out after you parked it but it could be a possibilty. Check the wires maybe a mouse chewed them possibly.

[JoeMechanic]

If the car sat..did it rain at all?.

Sometimes the water gets everything wet and causes problems.If I was working on the car I would unplug the harness connectors atthe Electronic control module.This module is underneath the coil packs on a distributorless ignition system.the harnesses plug into the sides of it(be careful you don't mess up the plugs use a small screwdriver to unlatch them).Blow into the connector thoughorly and plug them back in until you hear it latch or click.Do the same with the crank sensor plug if you can.Also heres an idea...if you don't get any codes..crank the engine over about 15-25 times with no more than 5-10 seconds per crank.The codes will set after you crank the engine at least 15-25 times..thats what I read on Alldataonline at the library.Most libraries subscribe to alldataonline its on the public compters in their research data base section..well at least it is free here in ohio.I love it...it has alot of technical info as well as part#'s and labor rates,schematics..everything you need even recall and TSB info.The part# from Advanceautoparts.com is Css7 for an in block crank sensor for $18.98...they also made this engine with an outside sensor mounted outside the timing cover.These crank sensors are directly behind the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer.Look behind it for the wiring and if it goes behind the pulley/balancer..thats it!.Its either a 2 pin or 3 pin connector type.Stay away from Autozone sensors as they are manufactured by wells ignition..wells is the absolute worst and cheapest parts on this planet.If you have the type of module with one plug and a bolt or screw in the middle that you unscrew than disregard the plug and click suggestion..just blow into it and screw it back in.

If its the Electronic controle module or spark controle module(same thing)that part # ESC128..first try to get a code to spit out with the above mentioned method..it will help alot if you can get the ecm to save a code,Joe.

[IsaacHayes]

The 24x CPS on the timing cover by the crank pulley is only for idle and low rpm smoothness. It won't stop the car from starting. So it's not that sensor.

GM connectors are really good at keeping out moisture. I've washed my engine bay several times with no problems. Now my dad did that once to a newish dodge neon and spent all day blowing the water out of the connectors!!

[The_Bishop]

Ok, thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can get over to the car today - It's 50 miles away from where we moved.

I don't think it's a water problem; the car had been bone dry for days beforehand.

I'll make sure I check the wiring by the coil packs, too.

Do I have to pull the damper to change the sensor? I sure hope not.

[JoeMechanic]

Crank Sensor you need is in the block

I believe its in the block either mounted from the back of the engine somewhere close to crank pulley/damper or from top behind power steering pump through the intake to the block.I suggest you try to get a code to memorize by cranking 15-25 times for 5-8 seconds per crank then try to get the SES light to stay on hookup your scan tool and see if a code was set.If its the crank sensor the code should set..if no code sets I really don't think its the sensor.My brother has a pontiac montana with a 3.1 and his ignitor/ignition control module/electronic spark control was bad.This is the module that the coils mount to..it controls the timing of the spark and gets a signal from the crank sensor.If you replace both parts I can almost guarantee that you will fix the problem..its very very common.Like I said before its alway's a good idea to get some info off ALL DATA ONLINE from the library.I will be going some time this week and I will look that up for you if you can't make it.It will have all of the information you need.

[The_Bishop]

Ok, I tried the 15-20 cranks, set no codes.

When I view engine data with my Actron scan tool, it doesn't show an engine RPM readout. But it does have a TC lockup slip readout, and that shows ~300 rpm when cranking.

There's also listings for four quad drivers. 1 and 4 always read 'bad' regardless of key position. 2 and three are 'ok' when key is on and 'bad' when key is off.

But no codes.

I'm going to replace the ICM, see what happens.

[JoeMechanic]

Yes..it does seem like the ICM took a hike

Thats what I would do first but they aren't cheap and you can't return an electrical part once its mounted on the car.My brother found one for his Montana at a wrecking yard complete with coils for around $30.

If the module doesn't do it than replace the correct crank sensor...there are 2 one of them that is mounted on the timing cover will not keep it from starting.The other one is mounted in the block somewhat like the cam sensor is..I don't know exactally where to look for that..Alldata online will tell you,Joe.

[The_Bishop]

Found the crank sensor - It's in a pretty hard to reach spot between the motor and the firewall. I'm off to buy a new ICM - They're $80 from Advance. There aren't any junkyards worth a damn near here in Weehawken.