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Help! Bolt in exhaust downpipe. Can it stay?

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  • #16
    LMAO!!! Thats exactly what my dad said when I replaced them! Anybody know if there's any way to fool the computer into seeing an accurate reading for the 2 oxygen sensors on the other side of the cats?
    Last edited by TazMan; 08-09-2007, 09:34 PM.

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    • #17
      an O2 simulator, but not many sites are selling them anymore . . .

      what kinda van/motor you workin on?
      N-body enthusiast:
      {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
      {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

      Current Project:
      {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

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      • #18
        It's a 96 3.8l Ford Windstar. Does the O2 simulator have to be for my specific vehicle or are they all the same. How does this look?

        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MIL-e...spagenameZWDVW
        Last edited by TazMan; 08-09-2007, 11:56 PM.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by TazMan View Post
          LMAO!!! Thats exactly what my dad said when I replaced them! Anybody know if there's any way to fool the computer into seeing an accurate reading for the 2 oxygen sensors on the other side of the cats?
          I did it once... inadvertantly. Had a '96 Achieva. One of many problems with the vehicle was a plugged cat- caused by oil-burning issues. I addressed the oil burning problem and replaced the UPSTREAM oxygen sensor 'cause it kept throwing codes. The car still didn't run right- found the converter clogged. Hollowed that out (for testing purposes only!!) and drove the car. The car ran fine for quite a long time that way- and never did set a code for the downstream oxygen sensor. My reasoning is this: Oxygen sensors put out a voltage in direct proportion to how much oxygen they detect in the exhaust stream. One might expect a new sensor to work more efficiently than an original with 180,000 miles and possible contamination issues. Now, since the converter effectively "burns" remaining fuel and oxygen- the computer expects to detect less oxygen on the downsteam sensor if the converter is working properly. And even without a properly functioning converter, that's exactly what it *sees* when the upstream sensor is new... and the downstream sensor is old and dirty. Can't say that it'll work on every situation, but it worked fine for me.

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          • #20
            Makes sense, Perhaps epoxy up the 2ndary O2's so they can't see any air LOL.
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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            • #21
              Hypothetical scenario: For purposes of academic discussion only!

              If it was mine, I'd start with no modifications to the oxygen sensors at all. You might get lucky and it MIGHT just work without problems. If there are issues... I'd start with a new upstream sensor... maybe continue by dipping the downstream sensor in oil if neccesary. Beyond that- unless you just enjoy working on the vehicle... you're probably wasting time. Might be worthwhile to actually buy a converter at that point.

              But I'd NEVER advise anybody to do anything illegal. In fact, I've never broken a single law in my life! And I'm incapable of deciet.

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