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3.1/3100 Turbo WONT FIRE Check engine crapt

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  • 3.1/3100 Turbo WONT FIRE Check engine crapt

    I have fuel and Spark. I think i have too much fuel. It ran for a little while, was blowing black smoke out and was running horrible. Its a Turbo grand prix by the way and ran fine with the 3.1... I think between the chip and injectors something is wrong?? My biggest problem is the check engine light wont flash!! It was on when it ran but when i jump A+B it just stays solid!! Now the car wont even start. I checked the engine grounds, spark on each coil packs, fuel rail, cleaned plugs a couple times (new Au476 racing plugs), compression was 180. Any help appreciated Thanks.

  • #2
    did you check the CTS. When they go back youll be running rich enough to blow black smoke like its nothing. Could be flooding the car out after cranking for long ( if you have been )
    sigpic
    1994 Oldsmobile Cultass Supreme SL
    3400/Getrag 284 5spd
    1995 Chevy K1500 350c.i. 5spd Z71
    350/NV3500 5spd
    2014 Chevrolet Malibu LS

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    • #3
      When you jumper the pins to check the ECM codes, do the cooling fans kick on? It sounds like your ECM is toast.
      \"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"

      1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
      1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
      1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles

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      • #4
        I agree with the ECM failure theory, when the AB terminals are grounded you should see the engine light flash period. I don't know about your swap or mods, but if it involves any harness work you may want to check your grounds. I had a similar incident with no modifications involved and it was the ecm. I had another where for a while my car would stall intermittently and on one occasion blew the ECM fuse, a few days later I realized it was the ECM when I smelled the distinctive odor of burning electronics parts.

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        • #5
          Burning electronics, 'eh? It sure is a distinctive smell, no doubt about that!
          \"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"

          1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
          1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
          1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles

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          • #6
            Have you touched the chip?

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            • #7
              I think if i have short, nothing will work properly? I put the chip in myself but sometthing tells me its not the chip

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              • #8
                tomorrow im going to check for iCM voltage. What happens if your knock sensor wire is grounding? I konw i suck at life.

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                • #9
                  this could be a chip problem. i had a dead chip in my car due to power getting induced into a ground circuit. the chip was dead but the car still sort of ran off the memcal. it also wouldnt flash codes.

                  id check the chip to make sure its in the correct way. also, is it a reflashed chip??? if so, put a stock chip back in it. if you have another ecm, id throw it in and give it a try

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                  • #10
                    yea i just put the stock chip back in and finally got flash codes!. I tried to start car but just crank. Im also trying to use a stock Turbo grand prix chip with 30lb injectors and no Egr probably not going to run? The new chip was just burned from a buddy of mine but i think it got erased by accident in the mail. Need to run more tests .

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                    • #11
                      well, running 30lb injectors with a chip tuned for 22lb injectors (iirc, thats what the tgp was) is going to cause massive flooding. the lack of egr wont cause issues aside from a check engine light when at cruise speeds. if you only have the stock chip id throw some stock tgp injectors in and i bet itll fire right up.

                      on a side note, the chip you had burned is likley just a bad burn. when i was helping a buddy with his turbo sunbird we had numorous times were we needed to burn a chip 2, 3 and even 4 times before getting it right. we were using eeproms and all moats gear. this was one of the big factors in my descision to go with a megasquirt in my car, and i eventualy got one in his.

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                      • #12
                        Hey i dont know if you guys are still there, but i got my new chip and check engine works fine now. Car still wont start, Its got 40 psi and spark but no start, just ocasional ping or backfire. Im using these autolite racing plugs and im wondering if that could be the problem, the spark seems to be right inside the plug rather than on top ...wierd. Also if i can find the timing mark on the crank pulley im going to hook up timing light to check if cam sprocket is correct. I just pluged in the IAC and TPS i wonder if they need to be calibrated for the 3.1 MPFI because im using 3100 topend. Im trying to think of anything if could be , any help really appreciated.

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                        • #13
                          I'd go to the proper plugs until it's running then experiment if you wish. That just adds another varible.... IAC and TPS need to be hooked up. The IAC will calibrate it'self is all. When I swapped throttle bodies from a 52 to 56mm the IAC re-adjusted (it was high idle for a while then settled in after driving for a while).

                          Make sure you have the spark plugs wired up right, and the coil packs are in the correct order too cause if you get those mixed up then the numbers on them won't be right...
                          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                          Original L82 Longblock
                          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                          • #14
                            Ok i finally got it started. I switched out those autolight racing plugs and put stock delcos and it fired up. I had to gas it a little to keep it running but it ran pretty smooth while it was cold. I tried keeping it at around 2000 rpm to break the cam in a little, it kinda wants to idle when i let it go. when it got to operation temp it started running like crap. I think new wires cant hurt but something is going on with the sensors maybe? Also it wouldnt start with the IC pipe on. At least it finally runs, ill see what tomorrow brings. Thanks to everyone for helpin out.

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                            • #15
                              Ok i replaced wires today and cleaned new plugs because some of them were fouled. And this thing refused to start it really really wants to tho. I cleaned the plugs and still no start i dont understand, i bet if i buy 6 more it starts. Has anyone else had experience with 3.1/3100 swaps running like crap? It ran Ok last night for a little while then started to crap out. Thanks for any help! i need this car to DRIVE!

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