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  • mixing oil additives?

    hey there once again PPl. i have a '95 z26 Beretta w/ 200,850 miles on her right now but you wouldnt even know it. my city mileage on the orig window sticker says 21 MPG. i get around 19 to 20 MPG. so i wondering if there is some visual way to tell if this motor has been swapped out before. the real reason im posting is that i ALWAYS use Lucas when i change my oil. now when i had my '85 Camaro brelinetta i had a 307 stroker in her that was old as hell. i used the additive "Restore" in it with good results. my question is can i mix the Lucas and Restore? i personally dont see a prob but i have to ask. yea i guess i want to have my cake and eat it too

    Respectfully,

    Phil

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  • #2
    I don't use any and I don't recommend any either. Try running good oil without additives and see what that gets you.
    Ben
    60DegreeV6.com
    WOT-Tech.com

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    • #3
      at my work the forklift mech. told me that Lucas is how he keeps the engines runnin as good as they do for so long. w/ this many miles on my girl id love to keep her as lubed as possiable.

      i have another question. how the hell do i retrive my codes? in an earlier post you had said
      "SappySE107" You can't jump it on OBD1.5, which is 94-95 beretta. You will need a scanner to see what codes there are.
      __________________
      Ben
      96 Grand Prix GTP
      i have looked into this OBD1.5 w/ no results. i only have 2 wires in the OBD. the ground and the serial data which is right below it. i looked for a missing wire that might have came out of the harness but w/ no results. as it turned out it was my TPS which was engulfed w/ oil and the return spring was faulty which in turn was trippin the codes. plus the area where the manifold pulls exaust back into the intake w/ like 3 selinoids was so F'N clogged it was unreal. so i cleared that out and replaced the .... i wanna say pvc valve..... ya know the one right in the front on the right side on the manifold. but anyway she runnin like a raped ape again and the weird part is that when i really hit the gas i gained like another ... ill have to say 15 psi of oil pressure. @ idel she is normally around 40 psi.

      PEACE and thank you for your help!!!

      Phil
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      • #4
        You don't even need 40 psi at idle but thats about where they sit. Thicker oil will have higher pressure. Additives are basically snake oil IMO. Lucas clings to parts, increasing rotating mass. You want the oil to shed so it takes the heat with it. Forklift isn't going to turn very many RPMs so that really doesn't mean a whole lot to me. You can't fix bad bearings and piston seals with additives, and you can't repair them that way either. Just running thicker oil would be enough to bandaid a worn motor.

        You need a scan tool to retrieve the codes.
        Ben
        60DegreeV6.com
        WOT-Tech.com

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        • #5
          ok what oil do ya recomend and where can i get this rare obd1.5 reader
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          • #6
            plus how long does it take a hydro lifter to pump up? i have a knocker and it takes till she hits norm op. temp till she quiets
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            • #7
              uh oh....you have the lucas additive.
              thats thick oil and it does'nt go away till the oil thins out.

              hydro lifter does'nt knock....it taps.

              i would mix restore with lucas.

              the engine restores works well, my 3100 has 172 k miles and she still runs strong.

              and to the guy that has a 96 grand prix...you have obd2 you can take your gp to a autozone to get your codes retrieved.

              and i "calibrated" my oil pressure gauge to the specs....and she's pretty good.
              1992 nissan maxima se (190hp/205tQ)

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              • #8
                ok im gettin mixed feelings about additives so, bottom line???
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                • #9
                  i think the additives are kinda crappy,
                  they sponsor drag teams(pay them big bucks) and spend shit loads on advertising....
                  if youve got some clearance issues with bearings and such then thicker oil may bandaid it untill you can fix.
                  but what about winter?
                  when you drive it in winter with thicker oil, itll never start on those cold cold days lol, then going back to thiner oil, well now your problem is that much worse

                  on an old motor that is worn, switching to a full synthetic has its own problems, it likes to leak, where it couldnt with regular oil, youll burn more oil as well....

                  im not sure what condition your motor is in, but if it runs good and youw ant it to last, jsut do regular oil and filter changes, like every 4k, and dont rev your motor out

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                  • #10
                    4k are you crazy?
                    well for some people it's okay...i change my oil 2x's a month ( do 6k or more a month).

                    all that sinisterz26 needs to do is drain out that lucas, and use some castrol or some good name brand oil and if ya want you can use engine restore.

                    but i'm pretty sure that if you get all of that lucas out you won't have that knocking sound.

                    i have a thread here about my engine tapping/ticking loudly...you sound look at it and you'll see how good our 60*engines are!
                    1992 nissan maxima se (190hp/205tQ)

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                    • #11
                      im sorry if i misslead. she dont knock. its not a main bearing or something like that. it just seems like it takes a bit longer for the lifter to pump up then it should. i was gonna try and reset the valve lash but was advised not to because of them being hydro.
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                      • #12
                        I use mobil1, and change it on my DD every 5K miles. todays materials, clearances, and tolerances are far superior from yesteryears technology. not to mention the FAR superior oils there are today. it's really unnecessary to change the oil at 2K miles where there's at least double the life left. I had a lady that came in once for her first oil change ever! The car was 12 years old with 90K miles on it, and ran fine. Doesn't mean things are ok with the engine, but got that many miles on the factory oil ok....
                        Andy

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                        fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                        fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                        62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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                        • #13
                          Although I wouldnt really recommend using additives, I have used them before and never screwed anything up. I definitely wouldnt mix different additives, thats asking for trouble.

                          When I first got my 3100 at around 130k miles, it had a loud lifter tap at startup. I did 1 dose of http://www.auto-rx.com/ and since then Ive ran some diesel oil (Shell Rotella) through it. Ive changed the oil at 3k, which is early for me. Slowly but surely the tap has gone away. Now at 145k there is no tap, just a little extra noise at startup. I would try diesel oil, either Rotella 5w40 if you live in a cold climate or any 15w40 if you live in the heat.

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                          • #14
                            ahh ticky lifter, most likely the check ball in it is allowing oil to drain out while it sits.
                            you could take it apart and clean it

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                            • #15
                              huh thats true.
                              my uncle had a civic and never changed the oil within the 3 years he's had it.

                              i guess it's all within the filter.

                              but as i said before sinister the reason is because of the lucas
                              1992 nissan maxima se (190hp/205tQ)

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