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Took my pan off to see this. I am the first to take the pan off, should I be concerned? Also since I have the pan off now, could I gat away with replacing the bearings now if there is no scoring of the crank or rods?
Id be worried! Yes, you can replace the bearings now with the same size that is in there now so long as there is no damage to the crank, rods, or caps.
Id be worried! Yes, you can replace the bearings now with the same size that is in there now so long as there is no damage to the crank, rods, or caps.
I found the root of the problem...
When I made a cover for the EGR delete, the bolt holes stripped and I had to drill/tap them and like an id10t, I didn't take the mani off the motor.The bearings are fine, these are the chips from the drilling that made their way into the pan.
Another hard lesson learned, just hope this doesn't cause a problem in the near future. (I say near because the hybrid will be started soon, lol). I'm just glad this isn't my daily driver.
The EGR bolts to exhaust and the intake. How would those get into the pan? Did you drill the exhaust with the valve covers off?
It was the EGR block off plate I made for the exhaust, one of the intake valves were likely open. I know the bearings are ok and the car wasn't knocking, hence why I was perplexed.
thing is even if you got metal into the intake, it cant get passed the pistons and into the oil pan. and even so, thats not filings from drilling a bolt hole out. that is bearing material. id pull all the bearings out and look to find were that came from.
thing is even if you got metal into the intake, it cant get passed the pistons and into the oil pan. and even so, thats not filings from drilling a bolt hole out. that is bearing material. id pull all the bearings out and look to find were that came from.
I'm going to pull a couple of caps, but a closer look at the flakes show they are twisted ribbons. None of the bearings appear to be spun, so my hopes are high at the moment.
Looks as if the engine ran for a bit without any oil.
I had an overheat at the track a couple of moths ago (200-300 miles ago) when the water pump let go. That in combination with an oil leak at the return line bung in the pan. Heard a knock and shut down, refilled and the knock went away. Removed the pan to re-weld the return bung (it was leaking because it was so tough to weld under the car) and saw the flakes in the pan.
This was the first cap I pulled too. I'm going to pull the main caps when I get some time and if they look ok then I'll remove the heads and get the crank and rod journals turned. Since I already have the bottom open, I'm thinking I might fix it in the car.
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