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  • spark plugs

    is there an easy way or trick to change the the plugs by the firewall? i thought it would be a simple job till i looked at the back half of the motor. i was told i might have to tilt the motor. if this is true then how do i tilt it? BTW i have a 3.1 z26
    sigpic

  • #2
    Can't really tilt the engine in a Beretta. The way I always do it is replace them when I have the heads off.... Hahah!! Ok, so that is how I've done it the last 3 times, but anyway. Remove the coilpack/ICM unit and that will clear up alot of space at the rear of the engine. There is also some evap stuff on the same bolts that hold the ICM, so pull that out as well. Its still a tight fit, but it is doable.
    -Brad-
    89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
    sigpic
    Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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    • #3
      They're tough but it could be worse. Chysler Sebrings use a Mitsubishi V6 where the rear plugs are under the intake manifold. Anyways, when I want to change those plugs I pretty much sit on top of the engine just to give me enough reach.
      1995 Grand Am SE

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      • #4
        Someone told me that on the new F150 trucks a plug change is a few hundred dollars in labour.

        I apreciate my S-10 a little more now.
        1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
        1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
        Because... I am, CANADIAN

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        • #5
          i have always heard about putting the car in park, pushing it forward and putting the ebrake on. supposedly tilts the engine forward. the advantage is obvious however small it may be. i have never tried as there is plenty of room in the alero engine bay.

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          • #6
            Putting the car in park and pushing forward will give you very little if any room. A trick I've seen work was to nose the car up to tree and get a come-a-long. Tie the bae around the tree and hook the cable to the engine lift point and tighten down. Should give some room. Oh, and invest in a double swivel<sp?> plug socket. They are a bit tricky to use at first but worth their weight in gold.
            Tuning a car is full of compromises. You must decide if you are willing to give up either reliability, performance, or a whole load of cash. Also remember that repairs will seem to come up much more often as you strive for even more performance

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            • #7
              Moved your thread to Pushrod Maintenance.
              If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                I dunno I got a tool that pulls most 2.8 and 3.1L engines foward and safely too. Came with different brackets to use on different bodies, work nice.
                Last edited by Juglenaut; 03-03-2007, 01:12 AM.
                I am back

                Mechanical/Service Technican

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                • #9
                  LOL, you guys are making this too hard!!!

                  Yes you can tilt and HOLD the motor forward WITHOUT driving up to trees using the e-brake. This only works in L-bodies and probably N-bodies with the side engine mount (no front dog bones)

                  Here's how to do it.

                  1) Put a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood and just raise the jack to support the engine a tiny bit.

                  2) take out the 2 bolts in the passenger wheel-well that go to the motor mount. Loosen the silver looking bolt in the engine bay on the motor mount that is in the notch. Pull the motor forward (might have to jerk on it). Then tighten down that "silver" bolt and the whole motor mount will be held forward.

                  3) change plugs. Loosen silver bolt, move motor/mount back into place so the holes line up in the wheel well. Tapping the mount back and forth with a dead blow or rubber mallet helps align them up perfectly. Raise the jack a little to take some tension off the motor mount if needed. Tighten the wheel well bolts, and tighten the slider silver bolt in the engine bay.

                  There ya go
                  sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                  1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                  16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                  Original L82 Longblock
                  with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                  Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                  • #10
                    So THAT is why that little bolt has a slotted hole... always wondered about that. Great advice!

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