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A/C delete possible?

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  • A/C delete possible?

    I have a 1989 Z24 w/ a 3.1 and was considering taking the A/C compressor and all of the A/C components out of the car because it doesn't work, but after having a look at the engine, it looks like if i removed the A/C compressor, the belt wouldn't drive the water pump correctly anymore. Does anyone know if i'm correct? If so does any aftermarket company sell anything that will bolt in place of the compressor to correct this problem?

  • #2
    u need to get an idler pully. there is a spot for it already u just bolt it on and get a beld for a 2.8 with no a/c

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    • #3
      look through the junkyards at 2.8/3.1l and you should be able to find the idler pulley. a non a/c belt is needed.

      a buddy of mine did the a/c delete on his without the idler pulley. the belt just barly touched the water pump pulley, and im quite sure it did slip, but he never had any overheating problems in 3 years.

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      • #4
        Sounds like lotsa work for no good reason to me.

        Why not invest that time and money in fixing the a/c? Or if that's outta yer league... why not leave it alone?

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        • #5
          You don't need the A/C delete pulley.
          You can bypass it by usine a 60", 6 rib belt. It will still turn the water pump. I've run my car for years that way, and have done it on many others, and recommended it to many of my customers. Never a problem.
          The only thing I recommend is filing down the chunk of aluminum on the front of the timing chain cover, above the crank pulley. It only needs a bit of filing to clear. I know some guys haven't done that, and it still works, just rubs the belt a little.
          Belt part numbers are Goodyear 4060600, Dayco 5060600. I don't know the Gates number, but any decent auto parts store should be able to use those numbers to get you what you'd need.
          Franz

          1990 Z24-NA 3.1L
          14.72 @ 92.24 MPH
          14.89 @ 94.92 MPH

          The boost is coming....

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          • #6
            if you just buy a pulley you'll have to find the right bolt. pulling a setup from a junk car would be best, but you can get the pulley at a parts store. I couldnt find the bolt anywhaere but the dealer, so i used a bolt that would screw in and a spacer to take up the slop.
            If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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            • #7
              Hello fellow buckeye! Summit Racing has a part from Dorman for you exact needed purpose. I am thinking of doing the same thing with my truck. The part number is RNB-34197. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

              that link might work. Less than thirty bucks, with free shipping, and you should get it quick.

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              • #8
                I was going to mention that same part from Dorman . . . actually, you might not even have to go through Summit to get it; I believe Car Quest and Advance Auto carry Dorman products - although it might be a special order.

                More than likely, though, you'd still have to pull the A/C compressor before installing the pulley/braket.
                N-body enthusiast:
                {'87 Grand Am SE - 3.0 90* v6} / {'93 Grand Am LE - 3.3 90* v6}
                {'98 Grand Am SE - 2.4 Q4} / {'99 Grand Am GT1 - 3400 60* v6}

                Current Project:
                {'90 Chevrolet C1500 Sport 350TBI}

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                • #9
                  well there is a prob with deleting the ac all together, and that is the dehumidifying effect that it has on your defrost. i know you said it doesnt work anyway, but i thought i would let you know. the a/c runs when you put it on any defrost mode to take the humidity out of the air do you are putting dry air on your windshield to make it easier to defrost your windshield. if you dont live in a warm climate, then it is very benneficial to have, that is just the other side of the story. if you can live without it, then go for it

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                  • #10
                    turbo your car and keep the a/c..... no way my cars going to lose it...its not worth the 1-2hp you might get by getting rid of it.. and the 10-15lbs you might lose.... ill diet with my a/c running... lol
                    1996 beretta w/a 04' 3400 3.5 top end, 42.5lb hr, 180*thermo, t3t4 .63ar 60 trim, LC1 WB, FMIC, greddy rs BOV,TIAL 38mm wastegate,791xv,fidanza,stage III clutch,TG LSD,ffp udp,walbro 255 lph,strut tower brace,22 rear sway,30 front sway,92 5sp tranny,92 subframes,all solid mounts,kyb shocks and struts,eibachs,battery in trunk,tgp map sensor,DHP Powrtuner,euro front and rear and more to come soon...mods sitting in boxes waiting install....zo4 kit,GTU wing,and more..

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                    • #11
                      well on a 5.0 L mag i saw that deleting the a/c can free up to 15 hp, dyno proven and track proven

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                      • #12
                        HOW? its a freewheeling pulley.... the only way itll suck up any hp is if its turned on when your racing... headers on a 5.0 wont even add 15hp.... lol
                        1996 beretta w/a 04' 3400 3.5 top end, 42.5lb hr, 180*thermo, t3t4 .63ar 60 trim, LC1 WB, FMIC, greddy rs BOV,TIAL 38mm wastegate,791xv,fidanza,stage III clutch,TG LSD,ffp udp,walbro 255 lph,strut tower brace,22 rear sway,30 front sway,92 5sp tranny,92 subframes,all solid mounts,kyb shocks and struts,eibachs,battery in trunk,tgp map sensor,DHP Powrtuner,euro front and rear and more to come soon...mods sitting in boxes waiting install....zo4 kit,GTU wing,and more..

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rickykline View Post
                          HOW? its a freewheeling pulley.... the only way itll suck up any hp is if its turned on when your racing... headers on a 5.0 wont even add 15hp.... lol
                          Even if it is on while you're racing, the compressor should turn off when you go to WOT anyways.
                          97 Cavalier RS
                          3400, Isuzu MK7

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by SHOoff View Post
                            Even if it is on while you're racing, the compressor should turn off when you go to WOT anyways.
                            +1... man we are on a roll... lol there isnt any reason to take off the a/c compressor.. or the egr.. damn i guess hp isnt cheap or free... look my my poor mod list and figure out what it cost for me to hang with modded ls1 cars..
                            1996 beretta w/a 04' 3400 3.5 top end, 42.5lb hr, 180*thermo, t3t4 .63ar 60 trim, LC1 WB, FMIC, greddy rs BOV,TIAL 38mm wastegate,791xv,fidanza,stage III clutch,TG LSD,ffp udp,walbro 255 lph,strut tower brace,22 rear sway,30 front sway,92 5sp tranny,92 subframes,all solid mounts,kyb shocks and struts,eibachs,battery in trunk,tgp map sensor,DHP Powrtuner,euro front and rear and more to come soon...mods sitting in boxes waiting install....zo4 kit,GTU wing,and more..

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                            • #15
                              I'm not deleteing it just to free up hp, thats the least of my concerns. The clutch was bad and didn't have the money for a new one (90 some dollars at autozone) so i kept riding the car around until finally friday night it locked up on me, broke the belt, and left me on the side of the road. I bought a used compressor for 20 dollars that should last me for awhile. As far as fixing the a/c and using it, I would, but I don't have the money, and even if i did it'd be a waste of money because i'd rarely turn it on. The temp in the summer here usually never gets above 85 and thats nothing that 2 windows down and 60 mph can't take care of. Thank you all for the replies, im sure i'll have other problems later on down the road and have ?'1 for you guys.

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