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  • Fun Stuff! =)

    We just picked up a 97 Olds Cutlass Supreme, the previous owner said it has a leaking headgasket because when the car idles you get the signature steam coming out of the tailpipe; and the car overheats after driving for less than 10 minutes. We got the car home and did a pressure test on the coolant.

    It held pressure for awhile ~10 minutes, so I figured the problem hadn't reached the point where it leaked all the time. So we started the car for awhile hoping to aggrevate the leak. We pressure tested it again and after ~5 minutes the cooling system began losing pressure, just as I had expected. Anyway, I tore it down thinking it was the LIM gasket. I get there and find that the gaskets are new.

    So I figured either they leaked after being replaced or it is in fact the headgasket. I'm probably going to put the manifold back on and do a compression test, but I do think the problem is the headgasket at this point. I'd like to be 100% though. One weird thing is that when I took the manifold off I found what looked like paper pulp in the two coolant passages on the side of the manifold near the powersteering pump.

    I wasn't too sure if this was pieces of the gasket or just that the last guy left a shop towel in there? Stupid people I guess. After all this my question is what would be the best approach if I in fact do have to change the headgasket? There's a lot of stuff in the way and I figured I might get some advice. Should I drop the motor out, lean it forward? I'm not sure, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
    Regards,
    Tee

  • #2
    id say drop it out.. but in the long run it may be cheaper to slam a 3400(more powerful motor) into it...
    1996 beretta w/a 04' 3400 3.5 top end, 42.5lb hr, 180*thermo, t3t4 .63ar 60 trim, LC1 WB, FMIC, greddy rs BOV,TIAL 38mm wastegate,791xv,fidanza,stage III clutch,TG LSD,ffp udp,walbro 255 lph,strut tower brace,22 rear sway,30 front sway,92 5sp tranny,92 subframes,all solid mounts,kyb shocks and struts,eibachs,battery in trunk,tgp map sensor,DHP Powrtuner,euro front and rear and more to come soon...mods sitting in boxes waiting install....zo4 kit,GTU wing,and more..

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    • #3
      youre only a few bolts away from having the heads off... just pull them and check
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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      • #4
        Yeah, there's plenty of room to pull the heads off, and it's only 6 bolts a piece. I had them both off with the engine still in my Beretta no problem.

        14.60 @ 96.33 for now...

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        • #5
          There are 8 bolts apice on the V6. I have done the headgaskets twice in my cutlass supreme with a 3100, and twice in my Grand Prix STE with the 3.1, and it is easier to do them in the car than to remove the engine.

          You just have to make sure you have the brackets off for the alternator, and the front motor mount, then the heads will lift right out.

          like they said, you are almost there.
          Taylor
          1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3100 MPFI
          1990 Pontiac Grand Prix STE 3.1 MPFI
          1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme convertible
          1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
          "find something simple and complicate it"

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          • #6
            when you pull the heads take a stright edg to the deck of the block, heads and intake (make sure its clean when you take the measurments)

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            • #7
              And replace the head bolts

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              • #8
                Thanks all!

                It's funny, I only checked this post once since I typed it. I went ahead and did all the neccesary checks shortly after and found that it was the rear cylinder head. I've since completed the job; it wasn't anywhere near as bad as I had thought. Again Thanks!
                Regards,
                Tee

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