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Compressor Clutch :-(

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  • Compressor Clutch :-(

    Well I went to adjust mine this evening, it's right on top of the... "plate" and is grinding like mad. It's emabarrasing.

    So I went up to autozone and asked for the tool and he hands me a box full of them... i'm like uhh and he goes and hands me a replacement compressor for my car and I start finding one that fits.

    So I try screwing it in from the top and the bolt is too long so I have to remove the tire and the splashplates and everything and get to it. I start to thread it in and I notice that inside where the "big" bolt goes in first it's fairly rusty and such, probally normal but I go ahead and start to put it in. It goes in only a tiny bit so I grab the wrench and start tuggin away. About 1/4 of the threads are in when it gets to about impossible to turn anymore, so I figure that is far enough and start with the middle bolt.

    I'm turnin and turnin and it's startin to get tigher then it gets tight, real tight. I tug some and look, no change, tug some more, no change, keep tuggin and tugging wondering wtf is going on and all of a sudden the whole tool cocks to the side.

    About 3 of the threads on 1 side of the "outter" bolt part stripped off. So I fight it out and the clutch hasn't moved but the threads are gone and there is metal shards around from it.

    Soo wtf should I do now? I thought maybe I got it crooked but I made sure it was damn straight, and I know I didn't crossthread it when I put it in (I checked the threads on the inside and even though rough, haven't been crossthreaded).

    I'm temped to just try to return the tool from rental and take it to a shop for them to adjust it. Last one I went to wanted to replace the whole clutch.
    SpudFiles
    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
    Theopia
    Enjoy life online.

    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

  • #2
    Did you remove the little nut from the compressor shaft that holds on the clutch before you installed the puller? Brad just replaced one on his car, and there wasn't a nut, but mine had one.

    Marty
    '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
    '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
    '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
    '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

    Quote of the week:
    Originally posted by Aaron
    This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

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    • #3
      I didn't even look... oh dear there may have been one.

      That may explain why it woulden't move. So just take the nut off then try to adjust?
      SpudFiles
      Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
      Theopia
      Enjoy life online.

      1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
      3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

      Comment


      • #4
        Correct. Remove the nut, then try the puller again. If you are lucky, there will be some threads left on the ID of the clutch hub.
        '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
        '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
        '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
        '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

        Quote of the week:
        Originally posted by Aaron
        This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

        Comment


        • #5
          Since you said it went in only a tiny bit, there is a good chance that there is a nut in there and it was stopping the tool from threading any more.
          -Brad-
          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
          sigpic
          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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