Need advice... Hybrid or RWD Carmaro 3.4L

[WhiteRaider]

there isnt the area to drill a hole for the sensor in the block. you would have to add material, then drill it. the external peice would likely end up being cheaper in the end result.

That's why I brought up the Lumina Minivan and Isuzu 3.1l blocks. They are FWD blocks with the CPS bosses on the block. They are just undrilled but they do have the material there. They also have the RWD mount locations. I found a page that pointed them out and showed a picture of them but can't find it now. I should have bookmarked it! Anyway, if I find it, I'll post it.

Since I'm going to be running MPI not SFI, the camshaft hole is no big deal. The only potential problem would be the starter on these blocks, but, worse case scenario, I can have the bellhousing modified and leave it on the drivers side.

I'd really like to find a 3.4l core here locally, but can't find any at my pick n pulls. I'm going to expand my search to some other yards in the area and maybe I'll come up with something...

[WhiteRaider]

I found a core engine for a Lumina Van that I can pick up for $100 so I think I'm going to go that route. I'll check to make sure that there is enough metal on the block to drill the starter mounts on the drivers side before I pick it up. I'll also take some pictures of the block with the undrilled CPS boss when I get it here.

I'm going to go ahead and do the iron head route with roller rockers rather than try to build a hybrid. It will be easier for the exhaust manifolds that way. I'll also go MPI using my 90 Corsica ECU and harness and will probably grab the upper pieces from a Camaro and just block off the distributor hole.

OK, now I can start working and stop researching!

[Guest]

as for setting timing, yes it could be done by an external crank trigger set up, however tuning the ecm is easier.

I beg to differ....

To change the base timing on my set-up (advance curves arenot effected, just changed by as much advance or retard is by mechanical) it takes 3 minutes, or so, loosen to two bolts, slide the sensor bracket in the direction needed, and voila, changed. Changing that via the ECM, would take that much time just to boot and find the program, plus knowing at least a little about code and graphs makes things easier.

On the flip side I do agree that tuning via the ECM has it's benefits, like changing the actual curves. Kinda like in cars with distributers where weights and springs were used to change the timing curve, but base timing was changed by twisting the entire distributer in one direction or another.

[WhiteRaider]

Hold the phone... I found a 3.4l at a local pick n pull! It's in a 95 Firebird of unknown mileage since the guage console has been ripped out. It's missing it's upper intake and a valve cover and some accessories, but other than that, it's intact. When I pull the engine, I'll probably swap the intakes and missing accessories off of a 90 Firebird so that I can buy it as a complete engine w/accessories. It will only cost about $180 including the core charge that way.

I was looking at the engine trying to build a game plan for pulling it. Does anyone have any tips on the best way to remove these things in a junkyard? It looks like it's going to be incredibly difficult to get to the top bolts on the transmission.

I was thinking that I could pull the lower intake and the heads, and that would help me get at the bolts on the top of the tranny.

Thanks in advance.

Oh yeah, While I was at the yard, I saw a Fiero with a 2.8 and scored the valve covers!