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before I lose my hand/ ac removal

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  • before I lose my hand/ ac removal

    I need to remove the component shown in the 1st pic, but in the chiltons book it say that the book does not cover the ac removal due to chance of serious injury or death. I figure it's becuase the4 system is under pressure. My questions are:

    1. can I just remove the copper ring and frame mount bolt in pic 1 and remove the bolt in pic 2 and its out?

    2. do I need to remove pressure for the system?

    3. the pipe that has the copper ring, does that run into the firewall and can I just remove it at the firewall?

    thanks

    Matt
    I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

  • #2
    RE: before I lose my hand/ ac removal

    If you remove the nut, freon on oil charge will spew like a drunken bastid.

    I may want to suit up with a good set of goggles and a mask to cover your mouth, even a good full cover plastic hood like you see in the movies would be good. Or just do it and run to let the pressure slowly release.

    In other words it is recommended to have a mech release and capture the freon and oil charge.
    I am back

    Mechanical/Service Technican

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    • #3
      RE: before I lose my hand/ ac removal

      okay, thanks for your help.
      I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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      • #4
        I've removed my a/c comp. and the new belt doesn't ride the w/p as much as I would like it too. As I'm sure you guy s would know what kinda of idler pulley should i be looking for?Is there one that is preffered or will any one that'll fit be good?
        I\'d rather push a CHEVY than drive a Ford!

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        • #5
          get the factory pully off a 2.8 or 3.1l without a/c. its the proper setup.

          as for just cracking the line and letting the feon out, its not only dangerious, bad for the enviroment, but its also illegal. take your car to a shop that does a/c stuff (dealership, rad shop, ect) and have them drain it. itll cost a bit, but your not gonna make a mess or hurt yourself.

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          • #6
            I had a shop drain it for free, It only took like 5 minutes. I removed the component in the pics above, but I still need to remove the piping connected to the radiator and the one leading to the firewall. I left the pulley part, cuz it's not in the way and it's needed for the belt.
            I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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            • #7
              I pulled the compressor out on mine you just need a belt without a/c and an Idler pully there is a boss in the timing cover for it. Thanks for the info
              I\'d rather push a CHEVY than drive a Ford!

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              • #8
                there is a valve core in the low side charge port. just loosen that and wait. mine was leaking, so i used the fine needle nose pliers and got it tight.
                Andy

                sigpic

                fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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